Blogs from Lazimpat, Kathmandu, Nepal, Asia - page 3

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Asia » Nepal » Kathmandu » Lazimpat October 16th 2009

Right now a big festival is going on here in Kathmandu called Tihar. It’s the fun festival—the one where people, after the sacrifices of Dashain, can celebrate the good things in their lives, the world, and the future. Tihar lasts 5 days: kag puja, kukur puja, gaya puja/Laxmi puja, mha puja/Newari New Year, and Bhai Tika. Kag puja is a worship for crows, because crows are messengers that bring news. Kag puja is celebrated so that crows will only bring good news in the coming year. The next day, kukur puja, is for dogs, because dogs are loyal and hardworking and helpful to people. The next day, Gaya puja, is for cows, because cows are sacred animals with the essence of holiness. Gaya puja is also Laxmi puja, a day to worship Laxmi, the goddess of ... read more

Asia » Nepal » Kathmandu » Lazimpat October 9th 2009

This weekend is dominated by the Jazzmandu festival. Check out the website: www.jazzmandu.org. I've made friends with many of the featured musicians, and last night I shared a scary flat-tire taxi ride with three of them as we made our way back to their hotel from one of the shows. I live very close to the hotel where they stay, and tonight I'm showing a couple of them a local venue where Anil Shahi, a successful Nepali guitar player, does a regular gig. The festival lasts until Tuesday, and it's unlikely that I'll post again while the festival is going on. In my next post I'll describe some of the Nepali food and eating culture. Check it out, and please comment or write me separately about my previous post.... read more

Asia » Nepal » Kathmandu » Lazimpat October 6th 2009

I've been here in Nepal for seven weeks now, and I've just finished writing a preliminary report of everything I've learned so far. It starts with a description of my primary informants and our conversations (names changed), continues with a description of the schools I've visited so far, and ends with some of my own thoughts/observations/conclusions. It's very long, but I'm more interested in being thorough at this point than in being concise. Please comment, especially anthropologists and professional music educators. Here it is: Principal Informants: Dr. Sitar Professor: Dr. Sitar is a prestigious professional sitar player from a family of prestigious professional sitar players. His grandfather brought sitar music to Nepal. Dr. Sitar earned his Ph.D. in Musicology from the University of Delhi, and his dissertation was in Nepali classical music of the Rana period. ... read more

Asia » Nepal » Kathmandu » Lazimpat September 30th 2009

It's been longer than I like between posts, and this time I'll have to risk your boredom again with a direct paste of my raw project notes (names removed). Not only have I been completely occupied over the past few days, I've also been sick, removing all desire to sit at my computer and write up notes. It's also high time for a picture post, so if you need a break while reading my notes you can refresh yourself with some scenes around the Kathmandu Valley. Here goes: 9-30 Today I did some exploring. I met up with a couple of travelers in Thamel, and together we walked across the bridge to Swoyambhu, stopped at the Thulo Buddha park, then continued on up the hill and out of Kathmandu city to a small Hindu temple called ... read more
Monastery
Monastery
Monastery

Asia » Nepal » Kathmandu » Lazimpat September 24th 2009

Every day this week the city has been engulfed in a wave of sticky heat. I feel exhausted after doing even the most menial things outside, and it has become very difficult to get out of bed in the morning. This week I learned a traditional Nepali song that heralds in the Dashain season. Nepalis hear it and they feel happy and excited inside; it means that special times are on the way. I’m playing it at a higher secondary school this afternoon with a few music teachers; mid-term exams will be over, and the students will get to enjoy a special performance showcasing their teachers’ talents. Starting tomorrow school will be out for a month for Dashain and Tihar, the big festivals that make up the holiday season. The performance will be fantastic—I frantically rode ... read more

Asia » Nepal » Kathmandu » Lazimpat September 20th 2009

Kathmandu is changing. The first few weeks of my stay the city seemed to stay the same, but now some transformations are taking place. First, it has stopped raining regularly, signaling the end of the monsoon season. More people are out on the streets, and the weather is slowly becoming cooler. The end of the monsoon also brings the start of tourist season; the streets of Thamel are now packed with dred-locked, tie-dyed travelers, and Gore-Tex performance clad trekkers. Some of the billboards around town have changed, and there are new movie posters up around town. A couple of upcoming Nepali movies: ‘Mero euta saathi chha’ (my only friend), and ‘The Gorkha Protector’ (a martial arts movie). One of my friends did the English voice-overs for ‘The Gorkha Protector’. Kathmandu is also preparing for its huge ... read more

Asia » Nepal » Kathmandu » Lazimpat September 16th 2009

For my project and my write-up, I’m becoming increasingly interested in addressing the question of where music (and more broadly, culture: music, dance, drama, and art) fits into the modern-day milieu of institutional education. I think this question is very pronounced here in Kathmandu where government curriculum is minimal and the many private schools have a lot of freedom to decide what subjects to teach, why, and how. Obviously music is an important thing. It’s an enormous part of culture, identity, history, human expression, emotion; it helps people relax, think clearly, inspires creativity, etc. All of these things are well documented by ethnomusicologists and music education advocates, and most everybody will recognize at some gut level the importance of music. Music also can be a lucrative profession for those who manage to be recognized and gain ... read more

Asia » Nepal » Kathmandu » Lazimpat September 10th 2009

You all have sent me some excellent questions and comments, and it's about time I responded to them. The rest of this post will address the comments you've shared with me. Keep them coming! Chase: The general consesus in Kathmandu about the state of the world today is that the current Nepal government is fairly unreliable. I've heard the sentiment that it's one thing to take over a country, and quite another to govern it. From students I've heard that political demonstrations disrupt their schooling. Nepal market business people are affected by a slow tourism year; they expect that the economic slump has prevented a large number of tourists from making the trip. For Nepali government officials reading this: these are not necessarily my opinions, they are opinions that I have heard from people on the ... read more

Asia » Nepal » Kathmandu » Lazimpat September 9th 2009

The past few days have been exhaustingly busy for me, but I’ve been getting some great fieldwork done that exactly fits my aim of researching music education. Rather than dressing all my notes up into a polished discourse, this time I’ll just post my frantic memory-dumping note scratches from the past few nights as they are. Feel free to ask me questions or for clarification about any of the events or ideas presented on this blog. I’m still working on getting a new insulin pump; right now I’m negotiating with a company rep from Mumbai about what I need and how much it’s going to cost. Monday I bought a set of tabla, and today I bought a sarangi (similar to a violin); I’ve got a lot of music to learn! Here are my notes: 9-6: ... read more

Asia » Nepal » Kathmandu » Lazimpat September 5th 2009

Over the past few days I’ve been alternately living the dream, and just plain living. Living the dream, I played clarinet at the home of the most accomplished and respected sitar player in Nepal on Wednesday morning. Every morning he plays his sitar; he doesn’t speak, and anyone is welcome to join him on their own instruments, and the focus is 100% music. Wednesday the group consisted of myself on clarinet, a tabla player who has been studying with Nepal’s master tabla teacher for 10 years, a bamboo flute player, and the sitar professor. We played a theme and improvisations, and a full morning raga. I felt an incredible organic connection with the other players, and together we created something truly inspiring out of the vibrations in the air. Supposedly this happens daily—I’ll have to investigate. ... read more
Thamel
Sarod player
Durbar Square




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