Advertisement
Helicopter coming in
The Japanese have arrivedLo Manthang to
Drakhmar Ghar Gompa
We wake up with the sunrise and the sound of horse bells and groups of people chanting. It's such a unique experience to wake up to- sets you up for a pretty good day! We get ready in under 15 mins, we have become progressively more efficient as the treks have gone on. We're like a well oiled machine these days- it helps sleeping in what you are going to wear the next day! So porridge? No- still no oats, more hot muslei is on offer, but this morning it has the added flavour of kerosene (?????). Say goodbye and see you later to the Belgians (at this stage we didn't know how our day was to unfold). They are going to Lo Ghekar to stay at the monastery while we are heading for Drakhmar. Beautiful walking conditions this morning- no wind, blue, blue sky and some warmth in the sun. Layer 1 off after 1/2 hr. We retrace our steps out of Lo Manthang; out past the gates and up the hill to the Pass. How different it is today without the gale force winds. On the down hill run after the Pass
Heli landing
Kicking up some dust there is a huge puddle which has iced over- makes for a good ice hockey rink- we amuse ourselves... The Belgians have caught up with us at this point and join in. We all continue on until we reach the old chorten and have a break in the sun. There is a lone porter there who the Belgians convince to let them have a go with his load. They estimated it weighted over 50kg. I think the porter was getting a bit nervous as they swayed around with his cargo! We reached the signpost for Drakhmar at 1145 and take the alternative route toward Marang- OK....
The track descends down to the bottom of the valley of stones and a bit of a river, it's not that hard walking but the high path looks like a .... well, a path.... no rocks to negotiate, a straight forward route, etc. I've given up on questioning the routes- they tend to mostly work out whatever we end up doing. It's slow going but it's a beautiful day. We arrive at a village (Lower Marang) it is our planned lunch stop but apart from horses and some grass there are no signs
of life. As we are leaving an old lady comes out and says it's still all closed up for winter. Shame-
very hungry at this point. We retrace our steps back up the hill again and finally reach Upper Marang at about 2.45. There's lots of activity in the fields but none in the village.To his credit Dhana finds a teahouse that will let us have some lunch. Dhana ends up cooking a big pot of vege noodle soup so we, and the Belgians, share it for lunch. Much discussion then ensues between Dhana and Narajen. Our original plan of sleeping at Drakhmar is officially abandoned -Dhana announces that it is too far and we'll be walking in the dark. Not a good idea. So.... we are now going to Lo Ghekar/Ghar Gompa too. The wind has come up as we leave at 3.45, we have a bit of a climb up a muddy hill, a bit more of a climb up the next slippery hill to the chortens that mark Lo Ghekar, then another climb to the actual Ghar Gompa Monastery itself. The last part of the way is paved with small terracotta chortens, it's really beautiful.
On
Back through the Pass
Slightly warmer and less windy than 2 days ago arrival Dhana and Narajen negotiate with the Lama and his wife for us to all stay the night. Within minutes they go into overdrive making us tea while we sit in the ancient (and very cold) dining room. Narajen teaches the Belgians 'Om Mani Padme Om', it is a lot of fun. We end up decamping to the kitchen though as that's where the fire is and it is getting really cold. The Lama and his wife round up those big furry all synthetic blankets and tuck us in, make more tea and disappear. After a while they reappear hauling brand new matresses, brand new pillows and brand new blankets, all still in their "Made in China" plastic bags, over to the dormitory. They have completely spring cleaned it, burnt some juniper and set up all of our beds!! It is VERY, VERY COOL. Dhana cooked more vege noodle soup for dinner and we all sat in the kitchen wrapped up in blankets until about 9.30.
Going to bed that night was utterly surreal. The almost full moon was shining through the window, the tree branches were illuminated and swaying,the wind was whistling, the prayer flags were flapping... and
I was tucked up in my sleeping bag absolutely in awe of it all. I can't really describe how incredible it was but it is something that will stay with me for a long, long time. I feel a bit bad (for about 3 seconds) that we had crashed the Belgians Monastery stay but I am soooo, so glad we got to experience it too.
Outstanding day. Another highlight.
Advertisement
Tot: 0.068s; Tpl: 0.012s; cc: 9; qc: 31; dbt: 0.0257s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1;
; mem: 1.1mb
