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Published: November 14th 2010
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swimming in sea of hay
planting wheat is one of the livelihood of people in Bhaktapur Lack of money means no luxury to pay for entrance fees to anywhere. No more temples or durbar squares. It means missing my date with a Sadhu. It is like being in Tibet without seeing a monk.
Have you encountered photos/videos (or in person) of weird-looking men in dreadlocks, covered with ash, sometimes with painted faces, in yellow or orange robes (or naked), who are either begging for alms, doing yoga, or with raised extremities, and most of all, look stoned? Yes, those are Sadhus.
And they really are stoned. Seriously.
(To make it easier for you to imagine since, sadly, I do not have any picture of them, here's a link to wonderful photographs of these
interesting men.)
Sadhus, or holy men in Hinduism, have renounced earthly possessions and desires in pursuit of spiritual devotion to Shiva.
And they do so by smoking marijuana. They believe that getting high enables them to attain higher levels of consciousness and get closer to god. It is also regarded that the practices of Sadhus not only erase their individual sins but also those of their communities. This is probably why marijuana, which is illegal in Nepal, is given to them
for free during Maha Shivaratri (Night of Lord Shiva).
Someday, I promise, I am going to get myself a date with a Sadhu. (I hope he will not ditch me. I will accept rolls of
those instead of flowers.)
Tiptoeing around Bhaktapur
The exorbitant fee to enter Bhaktapur Durbar Square forced us to content ourselves with going around its perimeter. A local showed us an alley way that led to quaint streets and centuries-old houses.
I admit that I was more than a bit disappointed. A colleague gushed over Bhaktapur, so my expectations were really high. Eight feet-tall high.
Well, it was probably better inside. I just wish even the surrounding areas, which were actually interesting, were also being maintained and protected well.
Windows and door junkie like me? You would have your fill here. (You could stop reading now if you want to. Boring starts here, or was it at the first sentence?)
Coming from Tibet, I could not help but compare the stark contrast between the designs. While Tibetan designs were often colorful yet simple, those from Nepal proudly show exquisite wooden carvings.
(See detail of a traditional Tibetan window
here and here
Postcard from (Base Camp of) the Top of the World.)
Next time, I would FedEx myself one. (Now, how that is going to happen is another story.)
Nice to know facts:
- A visit to Pashupatinath temple (one of the holiest shrines) is best during Maha Shivaratri as one can see sadhus from Nepal and India flock this sacred area.
- Sadhus are considered dead once they take this path, thus are not cremated but are buried instead once they actually die.
Backpacker Notes:
- To get to Bhaktapur, take a local bus at Kathmandu City (just ask around where the station is). Travel time is said to be 30 minutes but it took us 1 hour due to road constructions along the way.
- Spending the night at Bhaktapur is not needed. Although if you want peace and quiet -- away from the hustles and bustles of the city -- this is an option.
- It is said that sunrise in Nagarkot, an area in Bhaktapur and 2nd highest area in Kathmandu Valley, is good. One can also see a panoramic view of the the Himalayas (more info here).
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Kuya John
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Nepal Rocks.....
How are you ? musta na idol.... Ang galing nang Blog mo sa Nepal..... Really !!!!! sagot ko yong entance mo sa Baktapur next time :) ..... Sayang, it would have so much fun, to travel alongside with you sa Baktapur.....