Jungle Bells!

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"You don't come to Mulu to see animals" was the first thing our guide said. My face visibly dropped - so to stem my disappointment he followed it up by saying "but you're in for a real treat in terms of insects."

I would certainly not consider myself a lover of creepy crawlies - in fact quite the opposite and I was kicking myself for not doing better research but since you have to fly to Mulu we were committed to spending Christmas there.

Ironically the lack of mammals actually turned out to be a positive thing as our time became about enjoying the jungle instead of straining our eyes to find some elusive creature.

Mulu also boasts some of the world's most impressive caves which makes it five star resort for bats who when not gorging on insects have plenty of subterranean accommodation to choose from.

But what really made the park were the local residents, who were some of the most hospitable people that we have met on our travels and the constant supply of cake and rice wine helped to make Christmas 2010 unforgettable.

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