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Published: February 8th 2007
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Nipa Nipa
My beautiful bungalow, thanks to Gane Monday, January 29 was the bus ride from hell, but it all had a Happy Ending! I left Melaka early in the morning, prepared for a 5 hour bus ride to the city of Lumut, where I planned to take a ferry across to Pulau Pangkor. Easy enough - by 2 or 3pm I'd be lying on the beach!
Well, somehow I ended up on a bus that made a million stops along the way. Four hours later - we arrived in KL (less than half way there)!!!! The bus filled to capacity, and I, the only white person on the bus, was stuck sitting beside this creepy Malay guy that stared at me for about 5 hours. I completely realize that I am a minority here (white, female, alone) but this was too much. Time continued to pass - the bus stopped only to let people on and off, often just on the side of the highway. I had eaten that morning, but didn't bring any food considering it was supposed to be a quick journey. The bus stopped at a Highway Rest Station - my only advice is DO NOT GO IN!!! You do not have to pee
that badly, trust me. It was the most disgusting thing I have ever seen. The toilets, 2 western and 2 squat toilets, were black, because they were covered in flies - ugh! Gross. I just couldn't do it. The bus continued on - and by 6:30pm (9 hours after departing from Melaka ) I was clearly hungry, tired, irritable and REALLY had to use the bathroom. Also, the sun was setting and I was very nervous that I would miss the last ferry to the island.
Somehow, my luck changed. A man named Gane came over and we started chatting - he was going to Pangkor as well and he was convinced we would make the ferry. He gave me a ride to the ferry, and then upon arriving in Pangkor, he said I was welcome to stay at their guesthouse called NIPA NIPA for a super sweet deal. The place was LUXURY! Clean and spacious, white sheets, tiled floors, a cute verandah in front, my own bathroom - ahh, I lived like a queen! He was very kind and generous - and definitely made my stay. By the end of my week on Pangkor, I completely feel like
Kota Beland
The old Dutch Ruins part of the family! One night, they invited me to eat supper with them!
Pulau Pangkor is a beautiful island on the western coast of Malaysia, about 25 minutes from Lumut. The sandy beaches and emerald waters surround dense jungle, rolling hills and several small Malay villages. A clear indication you're on Pangkor is the line up of PINK taxi vans waiting to snag business from the tourists. To me, Pangkor is a hidden jewel. Despite its serene beaches and fabulous sunsets, its not a place that Western tourists flock too. Its a popular vacation spot for Malays, so quite regularly the sea is dotted with Westerners in bikinis next to fully clothed Muslim woman.
Gane took me on a tour of the island - I visited Chinatown (always a must in Asia) and the "historic rock" (not much of a site if you ask me...its a big giant rock in the middle of no where, next to a sign that says "Historic Rock" but no explanation of why it is historic). I stopped at Kota Beland, which is an old Dutch fort that has been left in ruins, and Fu Lin Kung Chinese Temple. What a site!
Fu Lin Kung Chinese Temple
From the bottom of the mountain This temple stretched and climbed high into the mountains with varies shrines along the steep steps to the top. Fabulous views!
Much of my time on Pangkor has been spent at the beach, suntanning, reading, sleeping, swimming and walking in the sand. No complaints on this end! I met a wonderful named named Robert that convinced me to go snorkelling with him to Giam Island. From shore, it doesn't look too far...but after an hour of swimming, I was VERY thankful to arrive on the rocky beach. What a sense of accomplishment though, and I was rewarded seeing all the fish. We fed the fish and had schools of brightly coloured fish swimming along side us and right infront of my mask. It was so incredible! Too tired to swim back, a guy with a boat had pity on our tired bodies, and gave us a lift back to shore!
Linds arrived on Pangkor this week and we had a great reunion over Tiger Beers and a beautiful sunset! Its nice to have some company again! We also found this great place to eat. Each evening, the main street of Teluk Nipah is lined with loads of stands,
Giam Island
Seriously, this was a FAR swim! all with carts of fresh fish (still with the head!) We chose a string ray, which was then tossed in spicy sauce and steamed between banana leaves over hot coals. Served with rice on a fresh banana leaf! Finish it off with a glass of ice cold fresh watermelon juice, and its the perfect meal (for about $3CAD).
Today was our last day of beaching, as tomorrow we are heading into the COLDNESS of the Cameron Highlands. Our guesthouse is having a Chilled-Out Full Moon Party, so we're looking forward to a few cocktails on the beach under the full moon.
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Melissa L.
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Malay Beaches
Hey Em. Sounds like you are having a blast. Glad you got to experience the islands of Malaysia. In my opinion Malaysia has the nicest islands and best snorkling in all of SEA. The fish are amazing! I also think it is only a matter of time before it becomes over run by tourists just like Thailand. I too travelled alone in Malaysia so I can relate on the creepy stares. Nevertheless, I am still super jealous - keep sharing your stories! XX Mel