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Published: September 4th 2011
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It was one of those mornings where nothing quite went right. By the time I was done with breakfast I decided there was only one way to fix things: gelato. This time I opted for lemoncello and black sesame flavors. Then I caught the bus to the ferry pier to buy my ticket for Friday. It took quite a while to find the one window selling tickets to Shenzhen; one woman even directed me outside by where the buses are, which I knew couldn't be right. Finally, I got my ticket and left to visit the Guia Fortress, but the only stop for the fortress is only hit in one direction, so I ended up riding the bus the full route. Because the entrance is in the middle of the city and next to a large hill, I really didn't want to wander around looking for it in the heat.
I took the cable car to the top of the hill and enjoying walking the pretty trail to the lighthouse, built in the mid-1600s. The views from the top were impressive to say the least! Afterward, I spent some time relaxing with a cool drink in the shade of some
stately trees, again reading a book. For as many people as there were on the trail, all I could hear were the sounds of nature. I loved the peace and quiet.
I took a bus south to A Ma Temple. It's the oldest temple in Macau is used to worship the sea goddess (to bring good luck to the fishermen). I also took a trip up the road to the Moorish Barracks, built for Indian soldiers in 1874. Sadly, it's pretty much been converted into office space. I went south again to the Maritime Museum, trying to kill some time. It wasn't quite time for dinner yet, but I wanted to eat in the southern part of the city.
Sadly, dinner in the southwest part of the city didn't work out. One place I wanted to go had rude staff and another was booked full until 930pm. Feeling defeated and hungry, I went back to more familiar territory and found another restaurant that had also been recommended. I walked in and while I was asking to see a menu, three people warmly gestured that I should have a seat at a table. While I looked at the menu,
they had me sit at the bar rather than stand in the middle of the restaurant, a welcome change from earlier. With prices lower than I'd been anticipating, it was an easy choice. I settled in and ordered Portuguese fish stew and some white wine. I was tired and it was late and a warm, hearty stew sounded like just the thing (despite the soaring temperatures outside). When it arrived I wondered if I'd been brought the right dish, as it looked a lot like sweet and sour something at an American Chinese restaurant. I gingerly tried an onion... and then a potato... and then a pepper... and then the delicate fish. It was divine. The staff eagerly waited on me and I'm pretty sure it was the owner who brought me my check. I can see why Solmar has been open for fifty years. I walked out an hour later full of the warmth that comes from hearty food and kindness.
I topped it off with gelato again. You never can have too much of that.
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