Don Det (13-15 Oct 12)

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It was a pleasant 1.5h boat ride from Don Khong to Don Det, but upon arrival I did wonder why I made the trip. I'd read that Don Det had become a bit of a backpacker backwater, with noisy bars lining a narrow lane, packed with over-enthusiastic young backpacker falangs. And while rather quiet when I arrived, the muddy, poorly-maintained path leading to the guesthouses sure made for a poor first impression. Having said that, the calming walk along the "sunrise" side southwards, flanked by the Mekong on one side and unending verdant padi fields on the other, reminded me of why Don Det was once thought of as a traveller's haven.

Originally a well-kept secret for those looking for a real, tranquil retreat from the rest of Laos (though I wonder why one would need that from a country that seems almost entirely peaceful already...), Don Det has developed a bit of a reputation as a partying, drinking hole for hippies. Fortunately, this wasn't the high season, and the number of visitors seemed moderate.

Anyway, I guess one of the main reasons for checking it out is to see the Irrawady dolphins that make their appearances only at the mouth of the river, in the brackish waters south of the island. Nope I didn't get the river name wrong, the ones found here at the Mekong are a sub-population. I'd read about these dolphins during my first visit to Laos in 2007, but because I'd stayed in the north then, I didn't have the opportunity to dolphin-watch. So here I was doing it now, as part of a one-day kayaking expedition, which actually reminded me that the last time I kayaked might very well have been on that last trip to Laos too!

So mission accomplished, I think it's time to move on from the Siphandon Islands, as alluring as they are, especially Don Khong. In a land-locked country, they are certainly a novelty, and I can fully understand why the ones who came early found them magical...

Stayed at the Dalom Guesthouse.

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Photos

Kayaking for Irrawaddy Dolphin
Nope, I didn't get the river wrong, a sub-population is also found in the Mekong. The elusive creatures make their appearances only at the mouth of the river, in brackish waters right on the border with Cambodia. And when they do, only fleeting glints of their shimmering backs as they surface to breathe through their blow holes. Only a few dozen left here, but apparently recent conservation efforts have been bearing fruit.

Spot the Falang!
The Frenchman from the kayaking group decided to join the local kids in this hyperactive game, which involved dodging flying slippers and a lot of running!

Khone Pha Pheng Waterfall
It might not appear so in the picture, but these falls are the largest in Southeast Asia. Their vastness reminded me of the Niagara Falls, albeit somewhat lower, but still extremely voluminous flow nonetheless!