Though we love Tokyo, we were happy to be leaving its mad energy for a few days to head northwards to the small city of Morioka. We had talked about going as far north as Sapporo, on the mysterious and sparsely populated island of Hokkaido, but time was against us, so we decided instead to head for Kakunodate, a town a few hours north of Tokyo that still had its old Samurai quarter in a well preserved state. Morioka, as the nearest city to Kakunodate was to be graced with our presence for the duration of our sabbatical from the capital. We found ourselves on the Shinkansen again, this time the Hayate No. 12, and two and a half comfortable hours later we were in Morioka, suddenly very aware that we were the only Big Pink
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