Japan, Hokkaido, Day 13, Rausu to Iwaobetsu

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A steep 10 mile climb out of Rausu first thing today from the word go with no warm up. Straight to 7% with 11% in places. My legs did not want to work. It was a surprise to see large pockets of snow on the slopes at 500m in a temperature of 25 deg C. and just goes to show what a harsh winter they must have. Our guide Ken left the van at the top and cycled down to meet us and with a fresh pair of legs showed us how to fly up the last 2km. Coffee and bananas etc at the top and we felt better. Ken cannot prepare the food fast enough for us - it is like feeding gannets. It is a good thing he is a very sociable friendly person who is never upset by anything- a perfect leader and organiser. The 10 mile descent passed too quickly and soon we were at the Shiretoko Visitor Centre for a pleasant walk to the coast to see the gorge and waterfall followed by a miniature venison burger at the centre. We are in Brown Bear country now and kept a look out for them. Valerie says she saw one one the way down and took a long range photo with her phone, which needs blowing up to see anything. We hope to have a better chance of a sighting tomorrow. Away on the bikes again, and would you guess it? Yes it was uphill. Up to the 5 Lakes Centre where we just visited one of the lakes along a 600 metre boardwalk along with many other Japanese visitors in their drives. As a lake it was not very spectacular but the surrounding mountains were very impressive. Down we went again and then back up following the river To the outdoor public Onsen. When we got there it was by the river amongst the trees, resulting in a swarm of mosquitoes and being dive bombed by Seagulls, so very few went in and I must say I declined. Down we returned again, in little time, to the Youth Hostel where we were to stay the night. This wooden establishment is very down at heal, smelling musty and in need of a fire, I would think, ready for a fresh start. Whilst sitting on the porch step awaiting entry I felt s sharp jan on my calf only to see a mozzy with its proboscis injecting my leg in a prelude to drawing blood. I taught the blighter a thing or two that it won’t ever remember. A quick squeeze and non the worse, unlike some whose legs are covered in swollen bites. The showers and toilets were definitely grubby and the decoration falling off, or suffering 30 years of fading. However, the meal was of a very high standard with the chef cutting up a whole salmon and telling us all about the process and then cooking it for us. It appears, listening to our host, that the offal is the best bit. Included in the meal was a really tasty salmon stew, fish eggs (roe), sushi and much more. All very fresh and tasty. Before bed a few games of UNO, of which I won the first two using all my skill as a card sharp After that I had to give up since my legs could not occupy the lotus position any longer. The low Japanese tables and no chairs are killing me. Most of the night was spent sleeping, the remainder trying to gouge the shape of my shoulder into the floor, or walking the squeaky corridors hunting a toilet in the semi dark.

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