Part 17 March 11 Ubud, Bali The roosters call from all quarters as the sun rises over the rice paddies, making fields of flowing green almost yellow under the glowing backlight. Despite the changes wrought by many years of unbridled development of what was considered a tourist paradise, Bali still has the scenery and serenity to charm. It is little hard to get past outward appearances here--on one hand the natural beauty of the lush palm fringed rice fields terraced up towards the holy mountains not so far off on this island where nothing is more than 50 km away; on the other the almost eerie feel of this glut of guesthouses, resorts, bungalows, and other tastefully manicured accommodations and restaurants that are, at best, 25% occupied and, more likely, house one or two guests in
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