Bali -- Adventures in Paradise

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I think you can safely say we've settled into the rhythm of Bali. It doesn't take long -- the heat and humidity keep you from wanting to rush around too much, and there is a very peaceful feeling about the place.

The day begins whenever we feel like getting up, and our house boy, Wayan, brings breakfast. Indonesian coffee or tea, omelettes, banana pancakes or "jaffles" -- a sandwich made in a sandwich press with your choice of sweet (banana, other fruit) or savory (eggs, tomatoes. avocado) filling. Of course it is served on the terrace outside each of our rooms, where we're surrounded by the beauty of the exotic garden. From the fountain in the corner with the little Buddha, to the family temple in the opposite corner, the orchids, diefenbachia and colius plants, to coconut palms and too many other trees to name here -- this is a tropical paradise.

The town of Ubud has a fabulous collection of shops and restaurants and we're sampling them all. From textiles and clothing to jewellery and wood carving, there is a rich array of local handiwork to choose from at prices that are too good to believe. And of course, the spas are magnificent. So far we've had massages and pedicures, and we still have a few days left!

We've explored outside the town a little, too. As we alluded to in our last entry, Wilda and I were invited to attend a cremation ceremony at the village of our driver, Agung. agung is a very thoughtful and genrous person who took us to his family compound where we met his father and aunt. His mother is deceased. Each compound has its own family temple where we had our pictures taken. Agung's aunt gave us a bag of snake fruit which is grows in their yard.

Bali has a very unique type of Hindu, the only island in Indonesia to practice this faith. It is reflected in every aspect of their life here. The ceremony is something Wilda and I will never forget -- the whole village of about 400 people turned out in their finest sarongs and sashes to accompany the dead villager to the cemetery. The priests chanted, the Gamelan orchestra (more on that later) played their undulating gong music, incense burned, and at just the right moment, they brought in the -- blow torch!! A bit of an anachronism, and more than a little disturbing. Anyway, it was an honour to be allowed to be there for this very old, very sacred tradition but in the end we were glad to return to Ubud!

As visitors we try to be very respectful of their local customs, most of which are dictated by their faith. When you enter a home or even a store, you remove your shoes. There are little "offerings" placed for the Gods on the sidewalks in front of every house or store, and these are replaced as the day goes on. They usually consist of little baskets made from palm leaves, and are filled with a few kernals of rice or little flower petals.

In the heat of the afternoon we've been enjoying the pool next door at the Okawati hotel -- much needed relief!

Mira and I have rented bicycles for the week. Yesterday morning we rode north out of Ubud, and circled around to the west. We rode through a little village where the famous white herons roost in the trees. In fact, they cover the trees. The locals believe these birds are the spirits of soldiers killed many years ago on this spot in a battle. Since their bodies were never properly cremated, their spirits were not able to fly to heaven. Outside the villages, we rode through hills and terraces of rice paddies. It felt like being in a National Geographic movie. I've never seen such intense green colours. In fact, the sheer productivity of the forest and the land in general is stunning.

We've also been enjoying the culture of Bali in other ways. On Saturday night we attended a Legong dance in the village temple. I mentioned the gamelan orchestra earlier -- this is an ancient form of music known only in Bali. It consists of various sizes of gongs and drums, and smaller units like our xylophone. However, the musical intervals and structure of the pieces are unlike anything I've ever heard. Like much of Balinese traditions, it has incorporated elements of Indian and middle-eastern ideas, but they've added their own unique stamp. The music doesn't ever seem to get resolved, and it goes on for a very long time, with louder crescendos and quieter parts that mirror the action taking place in the dance.

The dancers are mainly young pre-pubescent girls. It is an ancient form of dance that dates back to the dates of the monarchy, and the girls would entertain the royal court. Their intricate hand movements all have special meaning, and even their eyes move around in the most expressive manner to tell the story -- but no words are spoken.

Tonight we're planning on having a birthday dinner to celebrate Wilda's and Deborah's birthday. Then we're attending another traditional dance -- the "frog dance" at a different temple.

And on that note, it's time to sign off. Sorry we took so long to get this published, but we hope you enjoy sharing in our adventure with us!
One little housekeeping note -- if you'd like to send us a message, please send it to our travelling e-mail address [e-mail]. Even though this weblog says you can provide comments or messages through the website, it is not currently working.

Love to all, and hope you're staying warm in that snowy Canadian winter!

Sandi & Wilda

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