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Published: November 13th 2023
Different fields, different grasshoppers; different seas, different fish… ~ Indonesian Proverb
HE SAID... Today we were travelling east from Ketapang (Java) to
Pemuteran (Bali)– by road and ferry.
Locations > Ketapang is a seaport on the eastern coastline of Java
> Gilimanuk is a seaport on the western coastline of Bali
> Pemuteran (our destination) is a fishing village located on the northwestern coastline of Bali.
Transport We arrived at Ketapang’s ferry terminal in the early afternoon. The place was deserted. We breezed through security and didn’t need to show our passports. We were, after all, travelling between two Indonesian islands. We boarded a small ferry via a narrow metal walkway. It was fairly basic. We walked into the bowels of the ferry, climbed a set of steep narrow stairs and entered an open (but covered) seating area. We left our packs on a couple of seats and explored the ferry, embracing the sea breeze as it coursed through the weathered vessel. We climbed a ladder onto the open top deck and captured photos of Java and Bali. It was a strange feeling to stand between two islands that are so different in so many ways – despite being part of the same country.
The body of
water between Java and Bali (i.e. the Bali Sea) is narrow, and we could easily see the port of Gilimanuk, our point of entry into Bali. The crossing took about one hour. We disembarked the same way we boarded. We walked through Gilimanuk’s empty terminal, crossed a near empty road and jumped into a waiting minibus. It was hot. It felt hotter than Java, but I think this was due to the inescapable sun that bore down upon us as we struggled off the ferry.
The drive to Pemuteran took about one hour. We drove through mahogany plantations and lush green forests. The proliferation of Hindu temples, statues and iconography was apparent, and a constant reminder that we had left Indonesia’s conservative Islamic heartland on the other side of the Bali Strait. The vibrancy and colour of Balinese Hinduism was palpable.
Accommodation We arrived at Kubuku Ecolodge – our accommodation for the next two nights – in the late afternoon. Surprisingly, we received a lengthy briefing from the friendly hotel manager, but it contained so much information that I only managed to grasp about half the details. Our room was comfy enough, with a four-poster bed and large
bathroom. We couldn’t help but smile when we discovered our names, carefully laid out in thin strips cut from banana leaves, on the foot of the bed. It was a very welcoming gesture.
Cuisine …Dinner Day 1 (Kubuku Ecolodge, Pemuteran)…
The poolside bar had a happy hour on cocktails – three for the price of two – which we enjoyed soon after arriving at the accommodation complex. A Whisky Sour for me; Mai Tai and Long Island Beach Tea for Ren.
As the afternoon progressed into evening, the staff set up tables in an open-air grassed area beside the pool, where we dined while watching traditional Balinese dancing. Three young dancers performed with pre-recorded music played through a small speaker at the front of the stage. The third (and final) dancer came down to our table and asked people to join her on stage. I froze. This was the last thing I wanted to do. Luckily, she didn’t choose me.
Our meals arrived during the performance. We had been asked to pre-order these earlier in the afternoon, and we’d opted for the following:
> tempeh and tofu curry
>
nasi campur (plate of the day – rice
with side dishes).
Both meals were great, but tarnished a little by having them served during a performance. I can’t eat when a performance is underway – especially on a stage only metres from where I am sitting. By the time the performance was over, my meal was cold.
…Breakfast Day 2 (Kubuku Ecolodge, Pemuteran)…
We made our way to the upper floor of Kubuku Ecolodge’s dining area and waited for our pre-ordered breakfast to arrive. The efficiency of this place was extraordinary, if not a touch Draconian. Everything had to be pre-ordered. We didn’t really mind, and to our delight, the breakfast was good. The banana pancake with maple syrup was great, as was the coffee, tea and fruit. It was a simple but nourishing affair.
…Lunch Day 2 (Santai Warung, Pemuteran)…
We took a break in the early afternoon and headed out for lunch to a small eatery recommended in our Lonely Planet guidebook – Santai Warung. It was a peaceful, quiet and leafy little restaurant, and the owners were not in a rush to serve us. It was as if time had slowed to a gentle, relaxed pace with no sense of urgency…
We eventually ordered the following:
>
cah cay (mixed vegetable curry)
>
ayam kare (chicken curry with coconut milk sauce).
The food was basic and homely. It wasn’t a standout meal, and it wasn’t exceptional in taste. Yet it was enjoyable. Really enjoyable, in fact, until the waitress suddenly ran into the kitchen. She appeared to be belching, possibly even vomiting! Oh no! Luckily, it was a false alarm. She continued serving customers in the open-sided restaurant without a care in the world, and we simply relaxed into the afternoon in our leafy surrounds. We left Santai Warung feeling refreshed and rested. It wasn’t a great meal, but it was good enough. Home-cooked and comforting.
…Dinner Day 2 (Kubuku Ecolodge, Pemuteran)…
Snacks in our hotel room.
Highlights Exploring Pemuteran by foot: Having arrived late in the afternoon the previous day, we didn’t have time to explore before the sun disappeared. However, we were feeling fresh from a restful sleep, and we had a day free of rail, road and water travel, so we headed out to explore Pemuteran in the early morning light.
The small fishing village spans the length of a sheltered bay, so our
first port of call was the beach. It wasn’t a pleasant sight. Plastic rubbish that had been washed up with tidal currents was strewn over the coarse grey sand, and large resort complexes monopolised the beachfront. Yet when you looked seaward, the view was beautiful. Outriggers floated in the gentle ocean swell; soft golden sunlight glistened on the water; tiny waves lapped at the beach…
We retraced our steps to Singaraja Gilimanuk, the bustling main road that divides Pemuteran in two. The scruffy beach lies along one side; the quiet leafy village streets lie along the other. This road was busy, even at such an early hour. It was not a pleasant or relaxing experience to walk along its verges. Cars, trucks and motorbikes were speeding past, often within inches of our elbows. However, we had a plan. We wanted to visit a few of the temples on the eastern end of town.
We’d picked up a very basic map from the friendly staff at Kubuku Ecolodge, but we soon realised it wasn’t to scale. However, it was useful. We wanted to visit Pemuteran Temple (given the temple has the same name as the village), and our map
showed it as the closest temple to our current location. I wasn’t entirely convinced, so we asked a few locals along the way. They guided us with friendly hand gestures, nodding heads and beaming smiles. We were heading in the right direction, thanks in part to the dodgy map. When we eventually turned off the busy main road, the whole atmosphere of the village changed. It was suddenly quiet, peaceful, lush and overgrown. It was also very welcoming. As we walked past small dwellings and larger family homes, the occupants smiled and waved. The were so incredibly friendly. So were some of their dogs.
We slowly approached the foothills of Pemuteran, and it wasn’t long before we were standing at the entrance of Pemuteran Temple. This small unassuming temple rests in the shadow of lush green hills that rise steeply above the village. After wandering the temple’s surrounds, we retraced our steps to the bustling main road, then made our way back to Kubuku Ecolodge. We decided it was too difficult to negotiate the surging traffic for another kilometre to Pulaki Temple – the next nearest temple. Besides, breakfast was calling.
Lowlights Preparing and submitting tenders while holidaying:
A tender request had arrived via email a few days previously (when we were still travelling in Java), and it was due before our return to Australia. I had to look ahead and decide on a time and place to work on it, and I decided on Pemuteran. We had a free day without any travel or planned activities, so it was the only real option I had.
Having explored Pemuteran by foot in the early morning hours, we headed back to Kubuku Ecolodge and showered. The dirt from the busy main road had infiltrated our clothes and skin. After breakfast, I set myself up in our room and started preparing the tender documents. It was a long day of writing, calculating and formatting. It was not what I’d expected to be doing on our first full day in Bali.
After a relaxing lunch break, I continued working on the tender for the remainder of the afternoon. Apart from an outstanding referee request (which I hoped would arrive via email the following day), I finished the residual documents in the early evening. After grabbing a few Bintang beers from the friendly bar staff, I relaxed in our room
– catching up on my travel notes and generally winding down from the day. I eventually crashed around 11pm. We were leaving Pemuteran early the next morning (8:30am), so I needed an early night.
Preparing and submitting tenders on holiday is not ideal, but it’s par for the course for us. And to be honest, it’s the lesser of two evils – very much the lesser…
SHE SAID... When researching our trip to Indonesia, I read that Java was called ‘equatorial emerald’ and ‘land of earth’, which I can confirm are both worthy very descriptions. The nicknames for Bali were equally poetic – ‘the island of the gods’, ‘the island of a thousand temples’, ‘the lost paradise’ etc. And I was looking forward to checking out if any or all of these descriptors were accurate when we reached our destination later that day –
Pemuteran, Bali Having driven to the eastern end of Java, we disembarked from our minibus at the ferry port in Ketapang where we would begin our ferry trip across the Bali Strait. Given the heavy traffic on the road towards the ferry terminal, I was very surprised that the terminal itself
(which is the main point of entry to Bali from Java) was virtually deserted. We said goodbye to Yoga (who had driven us for the last four days from Seloliman on to Bromo and Kalibaru), and then made our way towards the port.
The Ketapang port seemed very haphazardly laid out, and it took Susi (our group leader) a bit of looking around to firstly find the guy with our tickets, and then locate the exit that would take us to our decidedly un-posh looking ferry. We crossed a bridge and boarded the lower level of the ferry which held rows of motorbikes and a couple of cars. We walked upstairs to the covered upper deck to look for seats. This deck was not what you’d call comfortable. There were seats, but the hot and stuffy atmosphere wasn’t at all helped by the people smoking in there. We took a few photos of the ferry pulling out of port and then climbed a fixed vertical ladder to the top deck where we spent the rest of the hour-long trip in the fresh air.
The time taken to cross the Bali Strait is dependent on the current on the
day. As the crow flies, the distance between the two ports is not far at all. But the ferry trip takes an hour or so, and in our case, it included going in a slightly circuitous route and waiting for other ferries to take turns crossing the strait.
We docked at Gilimanuk Harbour on the northern tip of Bali at 3pm local time (Bali is an hour ahead of Java). We were picked up by a minibus for the 45min drive to our hotel in Pemuteran, a small fishing village on the northwestern coast of Bali. The first part of our drive took us past the vast Bali Barat National Park, which Susi mentioned is a conservation area for the endangered Bali myna (also called the Bali starling). It’s a stunning looking white feathered bird, and I guess its beauty has contributed to its demise. Thankfully they are now a protected species. We hadn’t been driving alongside the national park for long before I saw black monkeys high in the tall trees, as well as groups of long tail macaques sitting along the road. These sandy coloured macaques in Indonesia seem to be a lot smaller than their south
Asian counterparts, and I hoped they were less vicious too.
The further we drove along this busy main road, a few things jumped out at me – the prevalence of Hindu guardian statues at gates to houses and public buildings; small Hindu shrines in the front yards of homes; and the number of dogs hanging about the streets. Being a predominantly Muslim island, we hadn’t see any of this in Java. I think I literally saw three dogs during our entire stay in Java, and we’d only seen Hindu icons in temples or museums.
Before long we turned down a tiny lane and pulled up outside Kubuku Ecolodge. We walked through a very welcoming external doorway and towards the reception building which was set in a lovely little garden. While sipping on our welcome drink of tamarind juice, one of the staff members gave us a run-down of all the activities we could do during our two-day stay at the ecolodge. I only half-listened to this list, as we already knew Andrew was going to have to do some work the next day (on a tender document our business had been approached to submit). However, I did prick
up my ears at the mention of the in-house spa that offered Balinese massage.
We were shown to our rooms, and it became apparent that the place had a lovely low-key resorty vibe. The villas were set around a lawned area that led to a small pool and an outdoor bar. It was a really cute set up, and on entering our room, we were faced with a huge four poster bed that had swan shaped towels, both our names written in small strips of banana leaf, and frangipani flowers strewn everywhere. It brought a smile to our faces. 😊
Our room was very large and comfortable, and my only concern was that the equally large bathroom had a partially open-roofed shower. As charming and tropical as it was having an open-air bathroom… for a mosquito magnet like me, this meant using insect repellent 24 hours a day. Even though my skin wasn’t going to get a break from DEET even in bed, I decided I was going to stop complaining and focus on how very traditional and beautiful the set up was.
Pemuteran is dissected by the busy Singaraja-Gilimanuk artery that we’d arrived on, and it
divided the long thin strip of a town into ‘beach side’ and ‘hill side’. Our ecolodge was on the hill side of the town, and we had a great view of the scalloped hills of Bukit Kursi while having drinks that evening. A few people from our group had lost no time in getting to the pool after we’d arrived. We got ourselves sorted with unpacking and taking a load of laundry to reception etc., and by the time we wandered out to join them it became quite apparent that the pool bar’s happy hour (three for the price of two) cocktails was a very popular choice; and that the cocktails were clearly very strong. 😉
We settled in with drinks by the pool (Mai Tai for me and Whiskey Sour for Andrew). This would have been a lot more relaxing and idyllic if the house next door hadn’t been burning their rubbish just near the adjoining wall where the pool was located, or if I hadn’t been unlucky enough to sit next to a drunk bloke who wasn’t making much sense. While trying to ignore these two irritations and enjoying our drinks, I realised that this was the
first time on our Indonesian trip that we were surrounded by more overseas tourists than local ones in our hotel.
We were eating at the ecolodge that night, and they had provided entertainment in the form of three Balinese dancers. We sat at a long table on the lawn and enjoyed more drinks (Long Island iced teas for me, Bintang beers for Andrew) while watching the dancers on a small stage strung up with light. We were treated to a Balinese welcome dance, a bird dance from Papua, and a fan dancer. The first dancer wasn’t bad, but the other two looked like they were still in training or had somewhere else they’d rather have been. Harsh but true. Also, the cocktails I got with dinner were so weak that I wondered if there had been a shift change at the bar!
The highlight of the performance (for me) was when the resident ecolodge dog started walking around the pool, and it looked like he was going to wander onto the stage and sniff the dancer. The staff tried to distract it, but most of us were barracking for the dog and there was a quiet sigh of
disappointment when the dog gave up and left. The other notable part of the dancing was when the last dancer started getting guests up to dance with her. Not surprisingly Andrew wasn’t very happy about this and disappeared to the bathroom just as the participatory dancing began! 😄
It was a nice warm evening for our first dinner in Bali, but it was rather odd that they served dinner (which we had been required to preorder earlier) midway through the second dance act. We had to make a choice of eating while the food was hot or watch the dancing. We ended up doing a bit of both, and it wasn’t at all enjoyable.
I’d ordered a
nasi campur (rice with various side dishes) which is a popular traditional dish in Indonesia. The side dishes can vary depending on the region and what’s in season. Sadly, my much anticipated first meal in Bali wasn’t great. The plate had a serving of rice in middle and the side dishes sat around it. Apart from the delicious chicken satay skewer, everything else was quite average. The setting was lovely and the lighting was romantic, but for the most part, it
was so dark that I really couldn’t see what I was eating. Apart from the satay skewer, the only side dish I could recognise for sure was
tempeh manis (stir-fried sweet and spicy tempeh) due to its distinct tempeh texture. I’m a visual person, and I was disappointed that I couldn’t see (or taste) the side dishes that made up my first
nasi campur. Fortunately, Andrew’s dish of tempeh and tofu coconut curry was very delicious.
We were quite tired, and the benefit of eating in-house that night was that we literally just crossed the small lawn and walked into our room! After an enjoyable shower in the fresh night air, I slept like a baby. The ecolodge was set well back from the noisy main road, and our room was in the middle of the complex – with made for a lovely quiet atmosphere. We hadn’t set our alarm because we had a free day, but we both woke up naturally at about 5am anyway. The call to prayer every morning in Java had trained us well… but we were also very close to the only mosque in town. and I suspect its call to prayer had woken
us up (even though we had no memory of hearing it)!
Andrew was going to have to do a few hours of work pulling together the tender document we’d unexpectedly received the day before; so our plan was to do some exploring of the beach and town first and then settle into our comfortable room for the rest of the day. We ventured out just before 7am, and it was nice to be out and about when the town was just stirring. Almost every house, business and hotel we passed (including our own ecolodge) had smoking fragrant incense sticks and a small offering to the gods at their gates and doorways. This was another reminder that we were now in a Hindu majority island.
Pemuteran might be described as a small sleepy fishing village in a remote corner of Bali, but given the massive population size of Indonesia, no place is really that small or sleepy. We crossed the main road near our ecolodge and turned into a small lane between buildings. The sandy beach wasn’t far from us as the crow flies, but with all the beachfront resorts annoyingly blocking off entry to the beach, we had
to go around the long way.
The black sandy beach wasn’t pretty or inviting by any description; but the traditional fishing boats anchored close to the beach were very picturesque, with the early morning light turning the sea into a glittering carpet. We had been warned that the beaches in Bali might be covered in plastic, but I was still shocked to see it. I wasn’t shocked that this unsightly pollution exists, but rather that the immaculate resorts along the beach did nothing about it! They seemed to have an army of staff sweeping leaves off lawns and mopping the tiles around the pool areas… however a few metres away, there was toxic plastic and glass washed up all along the beach. Wouldn’t their guests like to walk along the beach? It seemed not.
We doubled back to the main road and walked to Pemuteran Temple. The road rarely had anything you’d classify as a pavement, and it wasn’t the most pleasant walking experience. However, the traffic was by no means as heavy as the afternoon before, so it wasn’t as bad as it could have been.
Pemuteran Temple is a charming little Hindu temple down a
small but very pretty side road. This ‘hill side’ part of town was a world away from the ‘beach side’ areas we’d just been in. The small traditional houses were set back from the road, and they all had lovely lush gardens. We saw small town life up close, including backyards full of an animal we hadn’t seen in Indonesia until now – pigs. The Balinese love pork, and it was obvious that we were going to come across it quite a bit in Bali.
We virtually had the small but notable Pemuteran Temple to ourselves. The two temple staff members were engaged in a deep conversation, and they totally ignored us. We wandered around to our hearts content – taking in all the altars, small water features, the variety of very interesting offerings (like cigarettes!), and stages setup with musical instruments. The temple was at the foot of the deep green hills, which made for a lovely backdrop.
I’d noticed the day before and now again, that the Hindu statues were all wrapped in pieces of black and white gingham fabric. I was intrigued by this and made a mental note to ask Susi about it.
There were three or four other temples we would have loved to explore, but it would have involved walking another 5-10km to see the closest ones, and we needed to get back to the ecolodge. Plus by now we were hungry, and it was starting to get very hot indeed.
I’ve already mentioned that as soon as we got off the ferry, I noticed there were a lot more dogs in Bali. Sadly, even though most of the dogs in the town had collars to indicate ownership, the majority of them looked to be in very poor condition. And every female dog I saw had recently had pups! Susi (a fellow dog lover) explained to us that people only want the male puppies (as guard dogs), so the abandoned female dogs are left to fend for themselves on the street. This is the sad reality for dogs in countries with no animal welfare regulations. As most of you would know, I adore meeting and cuddling dogs and cats on our travels; but very very sadly I had to keep my distance, as we were in a country that still has a significant rate of rabies. 😞
Some of
the dogs we encountered on our walk were territorial and slightly aggressive, while others were very timid and looked terrified of everything in life. It broke my heart; but both types of dogs are equally unpredictable. Two stray dogs at the temple wagged their tails upon seeing us, and we figured they recognised tourists who may give them attention (and possibly food). It turned out to be a mum and her pup, and both were ridden with ticks. 😞
Despite getting nothing more than kind words from us, the mother dog escorted us halfway down the lane. She barked at any of the neighbourhood dogs who dared walk towards us. While I was grateful that she’d chosen to protect us, at certain points we wondered if we’d be better off without her presence stirring up all the dogs in the street. Thankfully two cars of pilgrims drove past us towards the temple, and our protector swiftly turned around and ran back to meet the cars. She’d clearly learnt how to survive in the harsh world she’d found herself in. Our pampered Oliver back home wouldn’t survive more than a day under these conditions… what would he do without his
scheduled meals and snacks that are demanded on the dot? Or all the pats and cuddles he takes for granted?
We returned to the ecolodge for breakfast. Very oddly (for us) we’d been asked to order breakfast the night before. It’s near impossible to know what I’m going to feel like eating 12 hours in the future… especially while still eating dinner! I’d initially ordered the Indonesian breakfast of
nasi goreng (fried rice), but at some point during the night I decided that Andrew’s choice of banana pancake sounded much better! I had attempted to change my order before our walk… and surprisingly, I did indeed get pancakes for breakfast! Even though the staff at the ecolodge were super friendly and lovely, the service hadn’t been the most efficient the night before.
The breakfast room had a beautiful vista of the hills surrounding us, and we had it all to ourselves. The banana pancake was lovely, and it was served with a delicious palm sugar syrup. The plate of fresh fruit was also nice. However, I have to say that the portion sizes (as with dinner) were on the smaller size. Our plates had cute messages written in
chocolate that wished us good morning by name. It was cute, but slightly weird too.
After breakfast Andrew settled down to a day of work, while I organised a few travel things and booked my first ever Balinese massage. At 11am I wandered over to the ecolodge’s spa that was right next to the reception area. It was an absolutely blissful full body massage that was a cross between a gentle oil massage and a deep tissue massage. The bulk of the massage concentrated on my back, which I was very grateful for. My masseur was petite but had incredibly strong hands, and I had to ask her to reduce the pressure when working on my thighs and calves. There was also a very odd (for me) stomach massage that drew me right out of my sleepy relaxed mood… and as she got closer and closer to my belly button, I nearly squealed ‘no thank you’. She giggled and moved onto my head… and my state of blissfulness was returned once more. Other than that, this massage was exactly what I needed at the almost two-week mark of lugging a backpack through Java.
Andrew was making great strides
on the tender document, so when housekeeping wanted to clean our room at 1pm, we decided to venture out for lunch and find a recommendation from the Lonely Planet guide – Warung Santai. It was only about a 15-minute walk away. However, by now the traffic on the main road was very hectic, and it wasn’t pleasant walking on the jagged or non-existent pavements. This wasn’t helped by the passing trucks being super noisy and raising clouds of dust.
Warung Santai was a long way down a lane that led to a posh resort. I expected a starred restaurant from the Lonely Planet to be quite busy, but there were no customers. As a result, we hesitated outside while we pondered if everyone else knew something we didn’t. The hot sun and our hungry tummies demanded a quick decision be made, so we decided to take a chance and sat down in the welcoming open-sided front room.
After that hot and dusty walk, we thoroughly enjoyed our cold drinks of a large Bintang beer for Andrew and an iced lemon tea for me. Our ecolodge had been a lovely introduction to the Balinese style of small local ecolodges,
and Warung Santai was a lovely example of a small Balinese warung. It had a thatched roof and was lush with greenery. From what we’d seen so far, Bali definitely had far more ‘on holiday on a tropical island’ vibes than Java did.
The
ayam kare (chicken in coconut milk curry) was pure comfort food, and the dish of
cah cay (mixed vegetable curry) was also tasty, but both dishes were sorely lacking in any spice. We had to ask for sliced chillies on the side, but even that didn’t give it the depth of flavour we had enjoyed in the food in Java. The food definitely wasn’t anything to rave about, but the quiet gentle place was exactly what we needed. The warung was a small family run place and we were happy to support it, but we did get a bit concerned when the woman serving us seemed to get sick at one point (but whatever it was, neither of us got sick).
It felt like a storm was about to break as we left the warung, but apart from a cooling breeze, no rain eventuated. I had a craving for dessert, and perused the menu
of every cafe on the way back to our ecolodge; but found nothing that excited me. In the end we dropped into a supermarket and bought some snacks to enjoy with cups of tea back in our room. We enjoyed a cold shower on our return, and settled in for a quiet evening. Very very happily the tender document was finished that evening, which meant we didn’t need to spend any more time on it when we reached Ubud the next day.
Our introduction to coastal Bali had been the polar opposite of what we’d expected. There were tourists, but not of the loud obnoxious ‘Bali-bogan’ type. There was a sandy coastline, but not of the Instagram worthy ‘lounging and reading’ a book kind. We had nice Balinese food, but not of the outstanding or ‘food memory’ sort. Regardless, it had been a restful and very productive stay in Pemuteran, and that was exactly what we had needed at this particular point in our trip.
On a broader note, the culture and traditions in Bali are clearly very different to Java. We had noticed many obvious as well as subtle differences as soon as we set foot on
the island. For example, the official language of Bahasa Indonesia was used almost as commonly as Javanese and other dialects in Java, but the Balinese seemed to predominantly communicate in Balinese. The Bahasa Indonesia word for ‘thank you’
terima kasih drew genuinely confused looks from the locals, and we had to quickly learn the Balinese version –
suksuma (pronounced sook-sue-ma). We also saw more many people dressed in beautiful traditional clothes… wearing these Balinese outfits seemed to be ingrained in everyday life (as opposed to only being worn for special occasions).
I can’t wait to delve further into this new land and gain a better understanding of their society.
Next we travel southeast to Ubud, the home of iconic rice terraces, royal grandeur and yoga studios.
(postscript: Andrew is trialling a different format for his section of the Bali blogs; Ren will still keep writing in the usual diary style)
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Jasmin Baker
non-member comment
Tropical vibes!
This is making me want to have a tropical holiday. But without the mosquitoes!!! LOL.