A little taste of southern India - 2 (of 3)
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Published: February 21st 2017
A little 'taste' of Southern India.
The collective ‘episodes’ (this being the second) describes our journey from our arrival in Cochin (Kerala, India) from the 2nd week of February for limited experience of this huge continent. In the few weeks available to us, we cannot experience 'everything'. So, we decided to limit our journey to the States of Kerala and Tamil Nadu.
We attach a few pics to give a flavour of our journey, and some may 'flow over' past the dialogue. If we do this, you may need to manually go to the 'spillover' page to see them.
As always, if you want to 'see' more detail in an accompanying picture, click it to enlarge. A summary (for those with limited time)...
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Week one saw us depart home to Cochin via Kuala Lumpur. We spent the first week 'getting to know' India (see
here). In this second week, we largely stayed in and around the tops of the Western Ghat (mountain range). We commenced the week at Munnar (a hill station) and returned to near Pollachi to go look for Tigers.
Empty handed (so to speak), we did at least see other fauna of interest. We then headed south to Periyar to go looking in another National Park region. While we saw Elephants and Bison, it was a visit to a 'spice plantation' that fascinated us. From there, we headed to the coast to Kollam for an overnight before heading to the bottom point of the Indian continent.
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Wednesday 15th: From Munnar back towards Pollachi
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At the end of the last 'blog', we'd noted we'd been driven high across a mountain range and into cloud. Eventually, the road descended and we'd made our way out of the cloud and into Munnar. Through the hectic town we traversed and then up a steep drive high up into the mountain to our accommodation. Along the way we'd enjoyed 'chai' or Indian Tea. The tea is made from tea 'dust' (a sort of instant tea) into hot watery milk and either served in small glasses, or a stainless cup and bowl. The cup contents are poured into the bowl (and back) to both ensure the 'dust' is dissolved and
to cool the drink. Not our usual fare, we've grown accustomed to our 2 hourly roadside stop.
Munnar was originally a
'hill station' but has now been 'overrun' by tourism (and the associated seedy retailers). What little we saw as we travelled through did not impress.
Our accommodation was less than anticipated. But, it did have a great view over the nearby hillsides. As it was Valentine's Day, most guests appeared to have been recounting/pursuing romance. In India, tradition has it that couples must be married before cohabiting. So, these were young married couples. Their age didn't worry us, rather, that the accommodation also had a bar that was being well used. Thus, the noise was greater than us 'old fogey's' appreciated.
Additionaly offputting was that the planned visit to the Eravikulam National Park had just been cancelled as the park managers had closed it to protect the
Nilgiri Tahr who were in 'foal'.
With 2 days planned for Munnar (3 nights), we decided the place wasn't for us and so we'd return from whence we came and visit the
Parambikulam Tiger Reserve some 25 km away from Pollachi. The trip back
along the same route (there is only the one) allowed us to see what was on the (road) summit so clothed in cloud yesterday; tea plantations as far as the eye could see. Interestingly, many Tea Plantations are dotted with (Australian) Silky Oak. Apparently, they have been planted as they best dry out waterlogged soils during the wet season. The verdant green on the rolling hill-slopes was eye-catching. The (same) road also again took us through the Indira Gandhi NP, where we saw the same elephant - this time on the other side of the road still foraging behind bushes. We later learnt that elephants consume around 50kg of roughage a day.
The best accommodation at the last minute was the
Tiger Hills Resort, near the Tiger Reserve. Despite what was claimed on the booking website, it was rustic accommodation with cold water showers. But, it was set in a Coconut and Banana plantation and the grounds had a great ambience.
We'd been eating at local restaurants along the way (and loving the food), so decided to go find one in the nearest town - Anamalai - some 10km away. Despite it being a largish 'town'
it was very rural and there was no restaurant! We found a roadside takeaway and had the most amazingly good Biyrani and pepper beef curry, using our fingers to eat (as locals do) seated on a couple of plastic stools.
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Thursday 16th: Tigers!!!!!
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One of the things Indians appear very good at is to market an image beyond actuality. Along the roadside, large billboards espouse wondrous benefits associated with the goods being marketed. Expensive jewelry will make the wearer instantly appealing. The private school advert assures parents their child will miraculously be assured of a good career opportunities. Etc., etc., etc.
The advertising for Parambikulum Reserve suggested we'll see Tigers, Elephants, Panthers and Bison, all of which will be easily visible! Our hopes were high.
Being in Tamil Nadu, there was a car tax to enter the park. Further (5 km) up the road, we were to alight from our car, pay a hefty entry fee and board a bus with a guide to 'sightsee' the animals. Having been advised to enter at 7am (when the park opens) we and another
vehicle were the only 'guests'. The park has a minimum of 18 people before the bus departs. Collectively we were 8. A telephone call to the front gate (that collects the car tax) revealed no more cars coming. The ranger suggested we split the 3060 Rupee fee to get the bus moving. The others weren't interested.
We don't know how it was arranged, but our driver Solomon managed to wrangle a deal to use his car with an accompanying guide to take us all through the park for only 1000 rupees. Bravo Solomon.
The part of the Reserve that we were to 'sightsee' had been cleared in the early 20th century by the British for a Teak plantation. We visited an 'oldie'; some 40m tall and assessed at about 500 years old. February is dry season and the (now bare) deciduous Teak trees offered us visibility for a considerable distance. There were many bird species pointed out to us and several monkey species. We also saw Spotted Deer, wild Boar, an Elephant swimming across a lake to an island, but no Tigers. In some regards, it didn't matter as we were in a natural
environment without Tuk-Tuk's buzzing around.
We learnt the Reserve was 'declared' as a Tiger habitat in order to preserve the terrain 'feeding' the two lakes; both of which are the water supply for Pollachi. It seems the inhabitants of a largish town within the dam catchment could only be moved if the area was 'declared'. Even so, some 'native' tribes protested and these few were allowed to remain and 'manage' the Reserve (and provide guide services). The guide accompanying us spoke English quite well and was very knowledgeable about the park and the wildlife. Before dropping him off, he confided he'd seen only 4 Tiger's last year - and only one sighting was as a guide on the bus (the rest as a ranger). Clearly, we weren't meant to see a Tiger today.
We returned to our 'basic' digs and relaxed on the veranda watching the many varieties of birds flit around us. We noted three types of Kingfisher, each with quite different plumage 'arrangements' and quite different azure colouring. Dinner in the open was most enjoyable; except that Judy was at one point fighting a cricket wanting to also help consume her dhal!
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Friday 17th: To Periyar (Thekkady) via Munnar
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Given that we'd been scheduled to stay in Munnar, the trip to Thekkady would have taken about 2 hours. Now that we'd backtracked some 3 hours, this was going to be a long time in a car. We left early to enable us to do things on arrival.
After check-in at Thekkady, we visited a 'spice plantation'. Our travel agent had recommended an establishment, but while driving into Thekkady we saw dozens of different 'spice plantation' advertisements. We realised that a successful enterprise will be copied and with so many, we were looking forward to the visit.
The small valley in which the 'spice plantation' was situated was carpeted with
Cardemom plants. To us, they just looked like Ginger (same family). With a canopy of
Jackfruit trees the valley provided some enjoyable shade. Our guide described the growing habit of Cardemom, the flower (from the base of the plant), and the seed. Then he described how the seed is harvested and processed before available for use.
We were 'introduced' to a similar description for many other spice plants; Cloves, Cinnamon, Pepper (Black, White, Red & Green), Vanilla, Cacao (Chocolate), Tumeric, (edible) Ginger, Nutmeg (and the skin - Mace), Curry (leaves), Allspice and (oddly) Stevia. While the latter is not local, it is apparently now grown in abundance. Indians are addicted to sugar (especially in tea and coffee) and - we are told - the nation has the usual problems associated with too much sugar (Diabetes, Obesity, etc.). We assumed the use of Stevia is partly addresses the 'white poison' issue.
We followed the tour with a visit to an auditorium to watch a martial arts / dance performance. Known as
Kalaripayattu, nowadays it is as much theatre as it is
">tradition. The show finished high in entertainment drama as the performers displayed their prowess in diving through burning rings.
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Saturday 18th: Periyar.
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In the tourist genre, the name Periyar is used interchangeably with Thekkaddy - but actually refers to the
Periyar National Park adjoining the town of Thekkady (where the accommodation was located). We were
up bright and early to take a boat ride through the dam that formed a centrepiece of the park.
Joining throngs of others, we boarded one of the 10 boats to ride in flotilla formation along the dam course. We were fortunate to see several Elephants, and
Bison (actually a Guar). These are huge beasts, some 3 times bigger than an average cow! As a last minute spectacle, several Otter came playing close to 'our' boat.
Upon returning to 'our' digs, we enjoyed a very late breakfast before heading off again for an Elephant ride. Though she prefers to see Elephants in their natural state, Judy really appreciated being on the back of an Elephant again. The journey went through a well worn track in a Cardemom and Jackfruit forest.
After returning to 'our' digs, we had lunch, checked out and headed to 'our' dwelling for the night - a tree house.
The tree house was only a few km's away, but high on a ridge. The company running the hotel at which we'd stayed last night had 'developed' the tree house as another venture. After being transported by 'jeep' (a
poor copy by Mahindra) to the end of the road, it was an 800 metre slog up steep steps to the treehouse.
After catching our breath, we noted the treehouse was situated on a disused Cardemom and Jackfruit 'farm'. The 2 young guys driving us to the destination and 'attending' to our 'needs' stayed in the original farmhouse (small blockwork dwelling with corrugated roof). The 'experience' was marketed as how "
Indians lived 50 years ago". Given our age, the trappings provided were dubious. Perhaps only the cold water dunk bath was correct. The (awful) food appeared more about what the guys could muster rather than reality. Given that the Romans visited the Malabar coast for spices, we felt few Indians would have endured plain 'spiceless' food.
The 'experience' was also marketed as a return to nature with peace and quiet. All afternoon and well into the night, all we heard was the distant blaring loudspeakers from both Hindu Temples and Muslim Mosques! Mmmmm!
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Sunday 19th: To Kollam with side benefits
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Though a walk through the national park with a botanist
had been scheduled for 11am, a search on Googlemaps showed the journey to our next destination - Kollam - was going to take 6 hours, not the advised 4! Solomon (our driver) had suggested we visit his home along the way and have dinner with his family. We didn't relish the thought of arriving at Kollam late in the night.
As Solomon's house was some 3 hours away, we decided to leave around 9am instead and have lunch with his family. While we are not big lunchtime eaters, Indians are so we felt it respected his family to have lunch.
Solomon lives in a small house built by his father in a village near Kottayam. He told us that when he married, he brought his wife to the family home. His brother did the same. His brother built a house 'in the back yard' (as we'd describe) and when his father died about 2 years ago, his mother moved to a back room. We were introduced to his mother, his wife - Solli - and their two sons (Kailesh and Shogun). We enjoyed a simple, but enjoyable lunch before heading off to our coastal
destination of Kollam.
Kollam is an age old sea port - having been visited by Phoenecians and Romans seeking spices. Today, while it retains the port heritage, it also acts as a centre for the Cashew industry and as a service centre for the growing coastal holiday market.
Kerala is mostly a Christian region, so Sunday is (for most) a non-work day. From our hotel room on the 6th floor, we could see where many were relaxing - on the extensive sandy beach! Beside the beach was a small fun park doing a roaring business. On the beach, vendors were offering the usual fare - ice creams, etc. but one was different; BBQ'd fish. Several vendors had wheelbarrow type arrangements with a small fire on which they were cooking the fish. It looked appetising, but despite being on the beach we couldn't be sure the fish was fresh. Instead we headed to a restaurant for
Fish Masala, sauteed
Prawns in Garlic and Pepper (hot!!, but extra yummy) and plain rice. Brilliant meal!
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Monday 20th: To Kanyakumari
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Before leaving Kollam, we'd looked
out the 6th floor window to see two groups of fishermen hauling in nets. We watched them for about an hour before we had to leave. With Solomon our driver, we went to the shore and watched to see the haul. Some 30 men hauled in a very long roped net, and the effort was rewarded with about 7 milk crates of herring! Immediately after the haul-in, buyers would crowd around to see the haul. Each plastic box of fish was auctioned off, there on the beach. Once purchased, the buyers' driver would take the box to his motorbike and head off to deliver. Altogether, we estimated that the haul returned some 20,000 rupee (or about A$400. How the reward was split we will never know.
Kanyakumari is at the very bottom of the Indian (sub)continent. Although a long drive from Kollam, the travel agent suggested Kanyakumari be included. As it transpires, Judy's Great Grandfather spent some time in the locality when a Congregationalist Minister working for the London Missionary Society.
Known as Cape Comoran by the British,
Kanyakumari has a long history as a trading location for sea-going merchants. The site
is venerated locally as the meeting place of three waters; Arabian Sea, Indian Ocean and Bay of Bengal. While it's days as a trading port are long gone, sadly, it is largely now a messy tourist destination for Indians. We also learned that St Thomas visited the area in AD 52 and introduced Christianity to the region. Apparently, though, during the 8th century, sea going traders introduced Islam to the area. Today, the region hosts Christians, Muslims, Jains and Hindu's; each appearing to compete to attract converts!
To arrive at Kanyakumari, we had to (again) enter the state of Tamil Nadu - and again, the driver had to pay a tax to enter. First, near the border Solomon had to stop, queue at a counter for about half an hour as some bureaucrat typed a paper detailing the occupants of the car and the tax had been paid. Then further up the road after the border, another stop and wait to show the same paper, have it stamped and be allowed to move on.
We eventually arrived at Kanyakumari - bathed in a haze from too many leaf litter burns - and shortly after
went and had another great meal.
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Reflections
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This week was largely a journey across the hills of the
Western Ghats. For our experience it was less of a mountain range and more of a series of geological upthrusts rising from the floor of a massive plain.
The Ghats are listed as a biodiversity 'hotspot'. We'd anticipated we'd see some of the larger animal species for which India is known. We were told we'd come at the wrong time of year in that there was little food for the fauna. Unfortunately, that is untrue. All fauna are dependant on available water and as the creeks and rivers were dry, most will congregate around lakes and waterholes. For whatever reason, Indian authorities have deemed that the 'wild' fauna are too dangerous for tourists to see these large animals. accordingly, access points are only on 'established' roads and lakes. In part, this is good as the 'decision' ensures appropriate habitat is preserved for these animals (as Indians have no issue with litter). But, as a tourist, it was somewhat disappointing that we couldn't get as close as
we'd preferred.
While we may have been a bit miffed that we didn't see the larger fauna close up, we really appreciated the scenery and the less populated areas.
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