A little taste of southern India - 3 (of 3)

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A little 'taste' of Southern India.

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The collective ‘episodes’ (this being the third - and final) describe our journey from our arrival in Cochin (Kerala, India) from the 2nd week of February for limited experience of this huge continent. In the few weeks available to us, we cannot experience 'everything'. So, we decided to limit our journey to the States of Kerala and Tamil Nadu.

We attach a few pics to give a flavour of our journey, and some may 'flow over' past the dialogue. If we do this, you may need to manually go to the 'spillover' page to see them.



As always, if you want to 'see' more detail in an accompanying picture, click it to enlarge.

A summary (for those with limited time)...

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Week one saw us depart home to Cochin via Kuala Lumpur. We spent the first week 'getting to know' India (see here). In the second week, we largely stayed in and around the tops of the Western Ghat (see here), eventually heading down to the bottom tip of the continent. In this third week, we reached the bottom (tip) of India and then made our way slowly north to our final destination; Cochin Airport and home. Along the way we explored some family history (on Judy's side) finding the church that her Great Great Grandfather taught at while a missionary in India. We were privileged to get a 'special' tour of a Hindu temple and found time to walk along a Kerala beach. We spent some time on a houseboat, wandering along the Kerala waterways and sleeping next to a paddy field in the boat. The last day saw us enjoy a Kathakali dance (preparation and performance).



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Tuesday 21st: Finding family history in Azhagappapuram

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We'd known for some time that Judy's Great Great Grandfather had spent some time in India as a Congregational Pastor employed by the London Missionary Society (LMS). We also knew that the place he served was at Jamestown (somewhere between Nagercoil and Cape Cormoran ) in Travencore. Travencore was a kingdom and was used by the British as an administrative region. Following independence in 1947, the area was 'joined' with Cochin and Madras and then divided into 4 states; Karnetaka, Kerala, Tamil Nadu and Andra Pradesh. Apparently, this was to better reflect the cultural and language groups of southern India.



As far as we could find out, a Rev Ringletaube had joined the LMS to undertake missionary work in India. He arrived in 1802 and was invited by a local Christian (Vedamanickam) to establish a Christian Church in the region. Ringletaube gained some land at Mylaudy in 1806 and proceeded to erect a church. Over time, he fostered 6 new churches in the locality, one being at Jamestown. But, then there was no church building at Jamestown. Ringletaube had taken the unusual step of administering religion to the poor and 'untouchables' - apparently a large proportion of the district community. Instead of erecting a church, he built a school. With limited clergy, a visiting priest would use the school for Sunday services. The arrival of Frank James Gannaway (Judy's Great Great Grandfather) meant that Ringletaube had a pastor to be able to minister at Jamestown. James (as he preferred to be called) had a church constructed at Jamestown with the dedication in 1862. We know from historical documents that James' wife - Emma - taught at the school while James pursued his pastoral duties.



From Australia, we couldn't find any google references (or anything else) to show where Jamestown was actually located. We assumed that over time the name must have been changed (as was often the case after independence). Historical documents showed that Jamestown was in the Indian village of Pichaikudiyiruppu. But, a google search failed to show such a village. We also knew that the LMS changed its name to world missionary society, and it amalgamated with other protestant churches in South India to become the Church of South India (CSI).

It was only when in India (using Indian google) that we were able to establish that a CSI church existed in Jamestown. Using more digital research, we were able to locate the actual site.



We visited the CSI Church at Jamestown and met a church elder who explained that the 1st church had been built by Rev Gannaway in 1862. To 'prove' his case, he showed us the foundation plaque in Tamil. There, in front of us was the 'evidence' that THIS WAS the church of Judy's Great Great Grandfather.



Judy was also chuffed on another aspect as this was also the place where James and Emma's first daughter was born - Alice Emily, Judy's Great Grandmother.



Jamestown is now a pocket village in the small district of Azhagappapuram!



After finding treasure, we went in search of more. The Jamestown church was an initiative of Pastor Ringletaube at Mylaudy - some 8 km's away. We found the site (still a church, but modern) and discovered the location held a memorial to the original dwelling used by Ringletaube. An elevated platform marking the external walls (of about 3m by 6m) allowed us to see how sparse life would have then been. We hunched that the Jamestown presbytery would likely not have been any larger.



We eventually took our leave of 'family history' and went exploring Indian history. The 'attractions' for Kanyakumari included the icons on the rock just offshore; the Vivekananda Rock Memorial and Thiruvallavar Statue. Onshore there was the (Hindu) Bhagavathi Amman Temple. As that was beside the boat ticket office, we 'did' this first. On entry, Bruce had to remove his shirt, Judy offered to do the same but the various 'advisers' suggested otherwise. then, a series of 'advisers' indicated we must do this and that, and there was a fee for each 'advice'. Eventually we entered the inner sanctum and again, another payment requested. Bruce said he did not have any more money, so they let us in without payment. At the exit, the 'advisers' wanted more, but got nothing.



We decided not to pursue the island journey as we were cranky at the hangers on wanting money. Additionally, the air quality in the area was poor, with so many raking up fallen leaves to burn. Additionally, Indians are also OK to burn their rubbish. Thus, visibility was limited by the smoke. We returned to our hotel and did some more research on the 'family history'. Interestingly, Pastor Ringletaupe described the residents of Cape Cormaran (Kanyakumari) as very poor, without principles and deceitful! Appears little has changed.





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Wednesday 22nd; Pastor + Poovar

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We were headed north today to Poovar - about 2 hours away.



Having 'found' the Jamestown church, we'd confirmed with the elder we'd return today and meet the Pastor. A little short stocky man in singlet and dhoti met us. We weren't able to grasp (Tamil) his name, but he wanted us to have a copy of the book published to mark the 200 year anniversary of the Jamestown diocese. There is an entry about Pastor Gannaway, but in Tamil. Upon our return home, we'll try and get it translated.



We departed and went sightseeing. First visiting an old fort site jutting out into the Laccadive Sea (towards Sri Lanka). Apparently the site has had some form of defensive position since about 500AD when Muslim traders settled the area. The current 'incarnation' was constructed by the Dutch and added to by the British. Today, as a national monument it's a pleasant setting and clean environment.



We'd been advised that a royal palace was well worth a visit. Looking online we noted that it looked very similer (though larger) to the heritage building we'd stayed at when commencing our 'journey'. On top of that, no footware was allowed. Tripadvisor contributors complained that walking on hot stones between the buildings was painful. We decided to give it a miss.



Instead, we went to the Arulmigu Thanumalayan Temple at Suchindram (near Nagercoil - which was along the way to our next stop). This Hindu Temple venerates 3 aspects; Siva, Vishnu and Brahma. We'd read on Tripadvisor that the 'advisers' in Hindu temples should not be paid as they appear to see the 'advice' as merely a means to make money from tourists. On entry, we said 'thanks, but no thanks' to the 'advisers' with good result. As we were about to enter the centre of the building, an aged fellow fronted us and started to explain the deity before us. He then sought us to go with him to the next deity, wherein he further explained the intricacies to understand the statue from a Hindu perspective. We knew there would be a price at the end, and were somewhat miffed we weren't asked, but the explanations were really good and greatly appreciated.



After stopping at many deities and figures carved in basalt (very hard) stone, we eventually came to a large set of pillars carved out of one huge lump of basalt rock. Our 'guide' asked us to place an ear on one of the pillars. The guide then proceeded to tap various other pillars and made a tune. But it wasn't any old tune, it was like an amazing melodic carillon. He tapped up and down on a pillar and achieved various 'chords' in one key. On another, he did the same to another key. And, so on. As said, the end result was truly amazing. We hadn't noticed, but the set of pillars was also an entrance frame - and there was another set of pillars on the other side of the entrance. We were asked again to place an ear to a pillar and a different, but equally amazing, song was played to us.



The Temple is reputed to have been built some 1600 years ago. Given the intricate skill needed to achieve such a splendid result, we have to wonder sometimes why we assume 'our' modernity is (somehow) superior to the craftsmanship of the past.



We'd seen roadside vendors selling anything that could be sold. One item that struck us was a palm seed (nut?) about half the size of a Coconut. Upon asking what they were, Solomon stopped beside a vendor and negotiated one for us to eat. Commonly known as Nungu or Toddy (by the British) it has 3 'sacs' of jelly like fruit. Supposed to taste a bit like Lychee, the one offered us was less than pleasant.



Poovar was a bit of a disappointment. The accommodation was stuck in the middle of nowhere and the owners appeared to use all opportunities to maximise profit. We decided to head down to to the nearby town of Kovalam to look at the beachside and have a bite to eat. Unlike other beaches we'd seen, the sand was fine and attracted many tourists (and the hangers on). We had a delightful meal of Kerala style spiced BBQ fish, salad (1st time offered) and Coconut Rice Yuu-uum!



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Thursday 23rd; to Kumarakom.

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Today, the 200km 'drive' required 6 hours in the car along a coastal road. Despite being called National Highway 66, there is no 'highway'; rather a 2 lane road which in parts is very narrow. As indicated earlier in part 1, Indian drivers are crazy. The road takes traffic from push bikes, motor bikes, Tuk Tuks, cars, trucks, busses to list just some. If a motor bike rider wants to join the highway, s/he will just enter - usually at a slow speed. Oncoming traffic is obligated to slow down so as to avoid a collision. Hefty penalties apply to a person deemed responsible for causing a collision, but entering onto a highway in front of an oncoming vehicle is not considered cause for an accident!!! On a rural road, our driver - Solomon - would even stop for a bird; such is the respect for life.



If a vehicle decides to pass another, the driver will typically pull out - even in front of an oncoming car. It seems the measure is if the oncoming vehicle is smaller then it's OK to pull out in front. The driver of the other (oncoming) vehicle just moves to the left. It was not uncommon to see 3 vehicles side-by-side coming towards us. Local buses typically drove at about 25-30kph. At a bus stop, the driver would generally stop in the middle of the left lane. Unless a truck or bus was oncoming, drivers following the bus would move past on the right hand side. Oncoming vehicles would just stop and wait.



On 'cleanliness', we've already noted the rubbish discarded by Indians. However, we also noted in Kerala that a Christian village would be quite clean, while a Muslim place very, very dirty. Cleanliness in Hindu villages were somewhere in between. Though towns and cities had their religious based housing 'quarters', villages appeared predominantly one religion. On the outskirts of towns and villages (especially Muslim towns and villages), we've noted roadsides not occupied by dwellings are rubbish dumps! On this subject, we are amazed that northern Indians tell us Kerala is so very clean! Mmmmmmmm!



Perhaps the most enjoyable aspect of the driving were the colourful Sari's worn by Indian women. It didn't matter if the woman looked a bit bedraggled and her Sari needed a good wash, it was typically colourful. But, most stunning were ladies out for a walk with a manfriend/partner. These Sari's were exceptionally colourful (and beautiful).



Kumarakom is set on Venbanad Lake; a large fresh water lake serviced by an equally large number of canals. On the other side of the lake is the town of Alapphuza (Aleppy), centre to some 2500 houseboats. The accommodation booked for us was serene.



We arrived at about 3pm, and as our driver - Solomon - lived about half an hour away, we told him to go home and we'd stay in. He appreciated the gesture.

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Friday 24th; the Houseboat.

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We'd been scheduled to be driven to Aleppy to board a houseboat at midday. A call the previous night changed that. The booking agency wanted us to be picked up at 1pm from the accommodation. We negotiated the same, but for midday.



The large housebout duly arrived and we departed onto the large lake. The afternoon breeze had yet to commence so we opted to sit on the top deck, making us feel very special. After about an hour, the boat pulled against a bank and moored so we could have lunch. What a spread! Freshly caught fish marinated in Masala (Kerala spices) before deep frying; stir fried vegetables with different spices; Coconut and cabbage stir fry; Sambar; Pineapple chutney; Kerala rice - and we were asked if we wanted more!!! We couldn't make a dent to what was brought out.



Continuing on, we noticed a group of locals in the lake. Two were 'climbing' a long bamboo pole, jumping off and reclimbing. Further back another two were duck-diving like cormorants, with a long boat beside them. We learned they were fishing! Apparently, the two with poles 'led' a long coir (U shaped) rope behind them. Their task was to drag the coir rope through the water. The other two were 'catching' the fish attracted to the rope. The limited English of the boat crew didn't enable us to fully understand the fishing 'rig'. They were saying the white part of Coconut is 'split' into the rope and that attracted the fish, to which the divers caught bare handed. We surmise it was hooks on line attached to the rope - possibly baited with Coconut - and the men were unloading. Whatever, it's an age old system quite different to anything we've seen before.



Later, the boat entered a canal / waterway. We were asked if we wanted to stop and buy Tiger Prawns - Yes! These are a freshwater variety and perhaps due to how they are caught are expensive. They were expensive in restaurants so we deduced we weren't being ripped off (too much!).



The boat continued along the canals, offering sights not yet seen by us.



Further along the canals - with housing fronting and rice paddies behind - we began to see more houseboats going in either direction. At some points, too many boats meant lots of horn blowing. At around 5pm, the boat moored in a waterway beside an agricultural landscape. We were able to pull ourselves from our sofa's and go for a walk along a narrow viaduct. Surprisingly, what we'd assumed was a narrow track to the paddy fields turned out to be the 'main drag' for many houses wedged between the paddy field and viaduct. Being late afternoon, many house occupants were outside and returned our 'hello'. Often teenagers would seek to practice their English.



On returning to the boat, it was not long till we were served dinner - begun with Masala King prawns 😊

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Saturday 25th; to Aleppy and Cochin.

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Overnight was peaceful and early morning we arose, wandered into a great breakfast before later heading off to return to Alleppy. After deboarding, Solomon was waiting to take us back to Cochin (via a couple of activities) and onto the airport for our departure home tomorrow.



One of the activities was a 'canoe' ride around some backwaters of Aleppy. We'd read that the (largish) houseboat only navigated the main canalsad that a 'canoe' visited the smaller canals where the 'real' life occurs. We were shown onto a smaller boat, but large enough for about 20 people. While it was only just the two of us, it seems a translation issue emerged. The Malayalam word for the size boat we were on is 'Kanai'. Needles to say we didn't see down any smaller canals!

Following the boat ride, we headed (back) to Fort Kochi. Not only was it lunchtime, but Judy wanted to get some 'genuine' Kerala incense (we'd seen when earlier here). We had a couple of hours to kill till a 5pm local cultural 'dance' performance. Being hot, we wandered along the foreshore and being a Saturday mingled with the masses.



The 'dance' performance was a local cultural tradition; Kathakali. The time alloted was 2 hours. The first 3/4 hour was observing the actors applying their make-up. This was no ordinary make-up application, it was an artform. The amount of colour applied required much 'foundation'. And, the colour wasn't just daubed on, rather, applied with a narrow stick (like an incense stick).



In the second hour, the director came on stage and explained the tradition - there is nothing spoken and the performance rests on a bit of dance but mostly hand and face expression. With one of the (now costumed) actors to show, we witnessed a variety of emotions expressed via just the face.



The director explained that traditionally, the dance is performed from 8:15pm to 5:15am. We were to get just a snippet. He explained the snippet before two actors came on stage and undertook their performance. To say it was amazing was an understatement - not only in performance but also the way the costuming was used to enhance the (various) deeds being shown.



We got driven to the airport (hotel) and had a short sleep till an early shower and departure.

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Reflections.

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Due to both Indian regulation and the state of traffic in the nation, we were unable to self-drive. Our driver - Solomon - made our stay extremely memorable. Not profuse with his conversation, he 'opened' doors for us that we'd never have otherwise been able. Often, when trying to order/buy something, he'd step in to translate. He even stepped in to ensure some undesirable was given short shrift.



We arrived in the dry season so didn't see the green Kerala shown in brochure photo's. But, that is the way of tropical seasons - one season scenically attractive (but with some disease risk) and the other offering greater scope to move away from the mainstream sites and (sort of do your own thing). On the latter, being unable to self-drive we were limited in how far off the beaten track we could get. Even so, we had a good taste of the 'off the beaten track'. On the latter also, the contribution of dry leaf fires across the State gave the place a relaxed (smoky) ambience that greatly soften the daylight intensity.



We've written earlier that one of the travel problems nowadays is the sheer mass of tourists and the Lonely Planet 'factor'; long ago it wrote glowing reports of a place only to now find the 'attraction' replaced with touts and tourists!



In some respects this 'anomaly' is exacerbated in (southern) India as the 'attractions' are few and far between because the huge population occupies most of the landmass.



Perhaps the most enduring experience we'll take away is the food. Softer in style than the northern indian curries typical of 'Indian' food, the Kerala and Tamil Nadu food is sensational. The spices less 'in your face' and typically more fruit/vegetable based. And, despite our initial reactions to curry breakfast, lunch and dinner, the different styles and types for each meal 'event' ensured they were just so applicable.

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