A little taste of Southern India - 1 (of 3)

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A little 'taste' of Southern India.

The collective ‘episodes’ (this being the first) describes our journey from our arrival in Cochin (Kerala, India) from the 2nd week of February for limited experience of this huge continent. In the few weeks available to us, we cannot experience 'everything'. So, we decided to limit our journey to the States of Kerala and Tamil Nadu.



We attach a few pics to give a flavour of our journey, and some may 'flow over' past the dialogue. If we do this, you may need to manually go to the 'spillover' page to see them.



As always, if you want to 'see' more detail in an accompanying picture, click it to enlarge.

A summary (for those with limited time)...

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Week one saw us depart home to Cochin via Kuala Lumpur. We stayed a couple of nights at Fort Kochi orienting ourselves to the Indian culture. With a car and driver, we headed north to Punnayurkulam to an Ayurvedic 'health resort'. The trip was an eye-opener to Indian traffic. No wonder foreigners are advised not to self-drive! After a taste on 'Indian' Yoga and an Ayurvedic (oil) massage, the next day we headed up the Western Ghat (range) to Ooty (full name Udhagamandalam). Here, at 2500m, the temperature was some 10C lower.



Pretty as the area is, Ooty is scruffy (over-run with tourism!). The surrounding area has been forested with Australian Eucalypts and Black Wattle. We felt we were in the Dividing Range somewhere in NSW. After a few nights in Ooty, we took the narrow gauge (ancient) steam train down the range to the plain in the State of Tamil Nadu. Venturing further south we headed to Munnar high on another section of the Western Ghats.



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Tuesday 7th: departure & arrival.

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Tuesday saw us depart home to Cochin (in Kerala state) via Kuala Lumpur. Though 'only' a 10 hour flight, a 5 hour layover made for a 'tedious' day. But at least this was largely a daytime journey.



We had an enjoyable meal in Kuala Lumpur and after arriving at 10:30pm local time (4am home time), 'suffered' an hour long queue to get through customs at Cochin Airport. We'd been advised that Indian bureaucracy has it's own pace and 'system' and there is nothing that can be done to find an alternative. Oh, well, welcome to India!



We'd booked an hotel opposite the airport so we were soon in bed.





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Wednesday 8th: Fort Kochi.

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We'd learned before departing Oz, that a local bus takes pax from the airport to Fort Kochi (our first destination) - hence our accommodation overnight at the airport. In early morning heat, the fully laden and sparsely airconditioned bus made it's way along the boisterous narrow roads that (here) serve as a highway. The road may originally have been sufficiently wide for traffic, but someone decided that an overhead railway would allow pax to get away from the airport more efficiently. Now the 'highway' is lined along the centre with huge concrete pylons supporting the concrete rail 'bridge'. So, the 'highway' has many mini-round-a-bouts along much of the length.



We began a conversation with adjoining passengers and as always were 'instructed' on the various customs and idioms that we should note. One of surprise is that Kerala State has banned alcohol. We'd decided before departing that we'd not consume for other reasons - we like craft beer and cheap lager isn't enjoyable, and we are blessed with very good wine in Australia so to try and imitate was pointless. So, our decision has been reinforced!!! Is that karma at work?



We eventually arrived at Ernakulam - the main business centre for the Cochin area. The built landscape we saw reminded us of that we'd experienced in SE Asia, especially Malaysia. It turns out all places use the same building process; concrete piers and floors filled in between with solid concrete/gravel blocks (and spaces for doors and windows). These are rendered and painted. And, in the tropics, the paint soon turns black with mould. At least with palms and the occasional tree, there is an element of green.



The bus proceeded further, across several waterways and eventually arrived at Fort Kochi. It wasn't much of a walk from the bus to the hotel (really comfortable) and so after getting our bearings we toddled off in search of some lunch (brekky had been a bottle coke!).



Fort Kochi was once just a fishing village on the Malabar coast. The Portugese were the first colonists to arrive (in 1503), and were granted rights by the local Raj to establish a trading port (with defences). Over time, the Dutch and eventually English sought to control the town (more on this below). Walking around Fort Kochi, it is apparent that it once had a more luxurious (and flourishing) past. Though many of the fine buildings have been converted into accommodation (of varying types), the accompanying land (to each small estate) has been 'infilled' with less grand residences. But, the few remaining garden estates and the huge trees along many streets not only provides a great ambience, but also a sense of the one time (but now faded) glory.



We were spoilt for choice for restaurants, signalling that the town is high on the tourist agenda. Given what we'd seen at Ernakulam, and being on the coast with sea breezes, it wasn't hard to fathom why. After a delightful Keralan style fish curry, we made our way to the foreshore to follow the coastal path and observe the Chinese style fishing nets. We took our leave of the filthy foreshore (with persistent hawkers) and meandered along several streets back towards the centre. We were enjoying the shade from the large trees, but not the almost constant beeping of traffic on these back streets. After visiting the local 'cathedral', we continued exploring and found ourselves in the street hosting 3 girls schools right at 'get out' time. In this tropical climate, we continue to be amazed that schools dictate a white uniform for girls. That said, most were clean and with the dark Indian skin the children looked stunning. Queues of open sided buses were quickly being filled with an accompanying chatter and laughter.



We continued on our 'explorations', enjoying the various little nooks and crannies of streets. Using our phone mapping (Maps.Me + HereWeGo) apps, we happily enjoyed our 'nosing around' knowing we weren't about to get too lost. While many approached us to buy trinkets, one - a Tabla maker caught our attention. He makes the carcass from Mango tree wood, and covers it with deer skin (pic below).



We returned later to our hotel and with the aircon coolth, soon fell asleep.



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Thursday 8th: Fort Kochi.

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Most hotel breakfast's are lame offerings. We were wonderfully surprised today to be offered a varieties of fresh tropical fruit and Indian cooked meals; Pineapple or Masala Dosa, Uthappam or Rosta (like a Dosa). Each was made with rice flour, light, flavoursome and just the right amount. All came with 2 'chutneys' - Coconut curry and Tumeric curry (thickened with chick pea and flavoured with locally favoured spices). While a culture shock to our taste-buds, they were simply yum.



Yesterday we'd been approached by too many Tuk Tuk drivers seeking to transport us to where-ever. Several offered to take us on a sightseeing tour of the 'attractions'. Using our hotel to select a reputable driver, we went exploring. After the intense sun experience of yesterday, the low Tuk Tuk roof shaded us from the midday sun.



The peninsula on which Fort Kochi sits resembles a fat cucumber, with Fort Kochi occupying the north-west side and Mattancherry the north-eastern side. Buzzing around the narrow streets in the Tuk Tuk was confronting. There are so many Tuk Tuks, motorbikes, bicycles, trucks, buses and cars - all competing for the same inch of the very narrow road. On most streets, speed is not an issue - it's impossible to drive fast as there are too many vehicles. Everything slows to a crawl when a bus or large truck inches along. Oncoming Tuk Tuk's must park to avoid the 'monster' and those following have little if any room to pass.



When in some less busy backstreets, the Tuk Tuk driver may gain a modicum of speed. Overall, the (too) many Tuk Tuks reminded us of oversized Kamikaze cockroaches. And, the motorbikes oversized mosquito's! All buzzing here, there, changing direction, and charging at each other in a bid to get through. Fortunately, with the driver we'd selected we felt safe.



Much of Mattancherry once serviced the affluent of Fort Kochi. In one area, Jews settled and offered goods and services quite different to the local traders. In another, Syrians congregated and some established mosques, while others Koptic churches. Around the (Lonely Planet) tourist icons repetitive lookalike stalls / shops sell the same stuff - much mass manufactured specifically for tourists. Elsewhere, the area is home to the less advantaged.



We passed a large Hindu temple but in India non-Hindu's are not allowed to enter. Almost as compensation, the Hindu temple's Elephant was being washed in a large ceremonial square water body (Brahma Padas). The 'spectacle' was most enjoyable.



The driver took us to the 'communal' laundry. Here we could understand the propensity for the white school uniforms. Established more than a century ago, this 'laundry' cleans the clothes and linen for hotels, restaurants and the affluent. The dirty goods arrive and are divvied up to the dozens of family run wash-houses; a cubicle about 2 metres square wherein the clothes are wettened, scrubbed with soap, rolled and beaten on a flat concrete 'stone'. Once rinsed they are hung out to dry in an adjoining field. When dry they are divvied up to the 'ironers'. One old lady was still using a burning charcoal iron. The others a monstrously large electric iron. Looking at the end product, a little starch had been applied to get a neat stiff appearance.



We continued to 'Jewtown' and the Synagogue. Our timing was wrong - the area was over-run with (fellow) tourists. For us, a place to flee.



Next stop was the Dutch Palace - a large mansion once housing the Dutch administration (and later British) and now a museum - we learned a little of the 'royal' history of the region. Before colonisation and when Southern India was ruled by a royal family, the southern sub-continent (Vijayanagar) was divided into a series of smaller fiefdoms (the 'old' map is displayed above). In the case of the Cochin area (now northern Kerala), the fiefdom was patriarchal and matrilineal. We'd known that Goa was matrilineal, but we didn't know it was more widespread. In this matrilineal structure, the woman (Queen) selects a Brahmin man (highest caste) to have children, but sometimes also chose another partner not of Brahmin caste; we're not sure if the Brahmin was divorced or whether it was polygamous. The 'queens' eldest son became 'king' and administered the affairs of the 'kingdom'. From wikipedia "The oldest male member was known as the karanavar and was the head of the household, managing the family estate. Lineage was traced through the mother, and the children belonged to the mother's family. All family property was jointly owned. In the event of a partition, the shares of the children were clubbed with that of the mother. The karanavar's property was inherited by his sisters' sons rather than his own sons." Succession is reported to have become convoluted and power envying affair by siblings etc., and led some to remove the 'king' in favour of their own 'son'.



The Dutch East India company wanted control of Fort Kochi and sought an allegiance with an envious 'royal' to make war on the Portuguese. Enter Vasgo De Garma to 'settle' the matter for the Dutch. Later, the Dutch east India Company was replaced by the British East India Company as the British exercised muscle.



As elsewhere, the British established administrative regions that sometimes followed fiefdom boundaries but sometimes for other reasons (eg. natural boundaries). In the late 1950's, local 'royals' held a conference to break up the British boundaries (Mysore, Travencore and Madras) and establish different State boundaries to better reflect traditional cultures. These became Kerala, Tamil Nadu, Karnataka and Andhra Pradesh.



After our 'lesson', the Tuk Tuk driver took us to a wonderful Biryani shop for lunch. So flavoursome and light in texture.



We returned to our hotel for some quiet time and later went wandering again. Even later we went for a meal - a delightful fish curry BBQ'd in a Banana leaf accompanied by Coconut rice. With a Mango Lassi (Judy) and lemon Lime soda for Bruce, all was well in the world.



We concluded the highlight of the day was the food.





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Friday 10th: Foolty Towers

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We are unable to self drive in India - and, given the traffic and state of roads doubt that we'd even want to so do. Hence, we organised the rest of our trip with a car and driver. After introductions, etc., we departed Fort Kochi around 9 am to drive some 90 km to Punnayurkulam. The trip took 3 1/2 hours! Welcome to Indian travel.



Along the way we became amused at the various signage on nearly every Tuk Tuk, truck and bus. In keeping with their faith, the owner of the vehicle had 'named' it accordingly; for example we'd see Jesus is Lord on one, Allah Akbar on another, Krishna Sarvochch Hai and so on. The only religion we didn't see enshrined was Judaism. Often, that wasn't enough. Especially with smaller vehicles, there'd also be slogans here and there around the vehicle.



Our destination was the Kannathur Mana Ayurveda Heritage Resort. The heritage building was built close to Eliyangad Palace (Cochin royal family) by a Muslim sycophant. It was acquired some time later by the royal family and became the royal family home after the royals lost their capacity to rule in 1930. About a decade ago it was acquired for the health resort. Built of teak, it is a spectacularly grand building.



We were given a grand welcome, first a manoranjini flower garland for each, then a hot towel for our face and this followed with a green coconut drink. After check-in we were taken to our 'suite' by a staff member.



At lunch the manager asked us what we'd like. With no menu, we asked what was on offer. The answer was "I think you should have lully-lully-loo-loo-lully-lully" At least that's how it sounded. Alas the most wonderful fish curry, dahl, rice and chapatti was served. Whenever the waiter (the same staff member that carried our bags) asked us a question, his interpretation of what we said was misunderstood and the manager had to come and sort it out.



After a wander along the nearby road to stretch our legs, we returned for an Ayurvedic massage and steam bath. Essentially, it was an oil massage (bucket loads) with ayurvedic herbs infused into the oil. The steam 'bath' was a box in which we entered and were 'steamed' like captive chickens.



Dinner was another delight - for two reasons.



First, we noted we were the only guests and decided the manager was filling in time attending to us. And, we noted the staff member was the gopher, waiter, etc. We couldn't help but notice the likeness to Basil Fawlty & Manuel. We giggled about this for a long time.



Second, despite being advised what would be good for us, it was! The best butter chicken we've ever had and an amazing paneer pulao (rice).



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Saturday 11th: Foolty Towers to Ooty

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The health retreat had a Yoga session each morn. As the only guests, Basil asked what time we'd like to start the Yoga (1 hour) and have breakfast. 7am and 8am we replied.



The Yoga teacher didn't show up and Basil went into a flurry. She eventually arrived at 7:30. The two females didn't see eye to eye and we decided to call it quits at 8. At breakfast Manuel was in a fluster and we didn't eat till 8:25! Even so, the kitchen produced four different wonderfully light Sambar's with some puri (deep fried chappati's).



Instead of the planned 8:30 we left for the 6 hour journey to Ooty at 9. The previous day, near our destination, the driver was frequently stopping and asking directions. Bruce used the phone app HereWeGo to direct him there. Today, the same app was used with considerable success; given the lack of road signs and the route going across the flow - that is, in this region most highways are north-south and we were headed generally east. The traffic was no less bedlam and we were glad we had a driver.



The daytime temperature at Cochin hovered around 34, so the airconditioned car was appreciated. We noted that nowhere on the Cochin plain was devoid of people; the streetscape was almost continuously fronted by dwellings, some properties large and rustic (rural) or small and dense (urban). Also, aside from the traffic there was a constant flow of people walking.



As we inched across the plain, the observable natural landscape was largely one of plantations - coconut palms, banana, rubber and the occasional rice paddies. The little 'spare' land was for grazing. About half way into the journey, the road began to climb. Now, there were more trees around houses and in the wider landscape. Soon the elevation became steep and the road was an almost continuous switchback. Here, the 'urban' was behind us. The landscape was very dry. After some time, we entered a dense forest (Amarambalan Reserve) that showed us a glimpse of what may once have occurred more widely. The dense 'green' was greatly appreciated. Part way through the forest we came across a throng of colourfully dressed people milling around a cart of some sort. They were obviously undertaking some form of religious ritual. Which brand of religion we didn't know until we passed the cart. At the top, hanging on several needles sewn through his skin was an almost naked man. from this we assumed it was some Hindu rite.



Not long after the forest gave way to an urban landscape, the driver stopped. As a commercial vehicle, he had to pay a tax to enter the state of Tamil Nadu. Everyone we've spoken to has complained of taxes and in the next breath admit that tax avoidance is a primary focus for Indians!



Every 2 hours we stopped to stretch our legs at a roadside stall for Chai; hot milky tea. Mild in taste, and nicely sweet. Better than Coke at a servo! At Gudelar, we stopped knowing we were only 25km from Ooty, but the journey up the range would take some 2 hours. Not long after departing, we entered a magnificent forest of Eucalyptus Grandis! While Flooded Gum is widely planted it's not the only Eucalypt spp. In fact, after this forest, most trees we saw were Eucalypt (or Silky Oak's). Despite the 'vegetation', we have seen some amazingly coloured birds, And, someone thought Australia would be better with the Indian Mina bird!



We eventually arrived at Ooty, at 2250 metres it was once a British highland 'retreat' during the oppressively hot summers. Definitely on the tourist trail, the treeless hillsides are carpeted with buildings, tea plantations and cash vegetable crops. After the forest it made for a decidedly forlorn welcome. The correct name for Ooty is Udhagamandalam, but the British nicknamed it Ooty and this has become the defacto name.



After settling into the hotel, we enjoyed a 'tea tipple' - an offering of 5 different teas grown in the region; Chocolate, Rose, Green, Masala and Elachi. Interestingly, the locals don't use tea leaves but a sort of tea powder. It seems powder is quicker to produce a 'cuppa' (though here, tea is served in a tumbler). Later we headed to a restaurant for another amazing Kadai curry and a Jeera rice dish.



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Sunday 12th: Ooty

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After a very cold night, we awoke to a stunning day - crisp, sunny and around 22C.



Like most 'tourist' centres, there is a long list of 'attractions' for Ooty. First on the list was Ooty Lake, said to be an Emerald jewel. Sadly, it was neither a jewel nor a peaceful site - being over-run with busloads of tourists. We saw a pointer to Kalhatti Falls and the web review showed it as appealing. Using our phone satnav app, the route took us into the wrong end of town. An eye-opener for us! We managed to escape poverty place and eventually found the track to the falls. The landscape at this time of year is dry so little greenery along the way. We took the 'turn off' which was a narrow dirt road. After a while it appeared that we needed to walk the rest and leave the driver to cool his heels. We were right - the track deteriorated rapidly. The falls were dry, but the walk along a rural track devoid of people (and their sounds) was delightful.



We returned to Ooty to visit the Government Botanical Gardens. Popular as it is, it is spread across some 22 hectares so it felt peaceful. We imagined the gardens were established by the British some century ago, and adopted by the government at independence (1947). Most trees are fully grown and the 'centrepiece is a large lawn around which pathways past species radiate. At the far end, and out of most visitor's way is a Toda Mund - the site of one pastoral tribal community from pre-colonisation.



We ventured back towards the main gate and found a seat at the edge of the grassed centre, settling ourselves to enjoy the magnificent day. Eventually we bade our farewell and were driven back to our digs.



Later we went out for a Hyderabadi Chicken curry and ghee rice - yum!





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Monday 13th: Ooty to Pollachi

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Looking out the bedroom window, we could have been anywhere along the (Australian) Dividing Range. The primary view was of a Flooded Gum forest, interspersed with Black Wattle. Only at the far margin was a tea plantation. We'd organised for a trip off the Western Ghat (mountain range) via the ancient train line, but were only able to get a ticket on the 2pm train. We spent the morning ascending to the highest hill in the area (2700m) and visiting the Government Rose garden. Both enjoyable time wasters, but hardly breathtaking.



The Nilgiri Mountain railway (colloquially known locally as the 'Toy Train') was built by the British in 1908 as a rack and pinion rail (see link) due to the enormous grade. While once a steam train for the entire journey, only the very steep section is now steam locomotive driven. The carriages appear to have been also made in 1908 (and then, comfort was not an overriding criteria). From Ooty, the initial third of the journey was enjoyable, though somewhat like the Zig-Zag railway in Lithgow in that the landscape we traversed was largely mixed Eucalypt and wattle species. After Coonoor (where the diesel engine was replaced with a steam locomotive), the train entered a natural vegetation landscape on a very steep escarpment. The journey was slow, but visually attractive.



Having descended some 1800m over a distance of 46 km, we arrived at Mettupalayam at 5:35pm. Our driver was awaiting us. We still had 60km to drive to the arranged accommodation. This journey took 3 hours!!! The roads were (relatively) narrow and very busy. One one section (of about 20km's) the supposed freeway (6 lanes) had no less than 8 toll booths. Oddly, one pays the toll at the beginning and shows the ticket at each toll booth. But, the queue to so do wastes much time. The purpose of the toll booths is to 'catch' those who may have entered the highway after the last booth. Before nightfall we saw the remains of several accidents (motorbikes) and after nightfall several more but this time trucks. The only way to describe the behaviour of Indian drivers is outrageously stupid. It's as if the drivers have no regard for rules (have yet to see a highway patrol police car) and their main purpose is to take whatever risk to get in front of the next car/truck/bus/bike/Tuk Tuk!!!



Late, and after a meal along the way at Pollachi, we finally rested our heads.





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Tuesday 14th: Pollachi to Munnar

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.The accommodation near Pollachi was reserved as a stopover (sadly, as it was quite stunning). The route to Munnar took us partially back through landscape we'd driven the night before. At only 300m above sea level, the plain was carpeted with Coconut palm plantations. heading south, the landscape changed to dry grazing land. Eventually, we started to gradually drive higher and before long entered the Indira Gandhi National Park - where we spied an elephant grazing behind shrubs. Sadly, the day was overcast and with much smoke haze and so distant visibility was limited; after the flat plain the mountains looked appealing. The road eventually became a pass between two ranges and we entered the Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary. Here, the cloud became denser as we left the Sanctuary and drove further higher through uninterrupted tea plantations.



We couldn't understand the 'police' checkpoints. We'd seen them along most roads at every town, but on this road, a policeman would wave us down and ask for money - no receipt. Seems this applies to vehicles registered outside Tamil Nadu!



At one checkpoint, there was a creek down the slope. That the driver was going to be some minutes 'negotiating' a preferred outcome, Bruce went down and 'found' a rainforest type of environment with hardly any litter. On the topic of litter, despite signs almost everywhere, too many Indians seem to have no regard to where they discard their litter. Thus, this 'find' was even more special.



Soon we entered the cloud encountering almost nil visibility. Eventually, the road descended enough for us to drive out of the cloud. Along the way the narrow road was closed due to a funeral. With steep sides beside the road (one up, other down), there was nowhere else for the village people to 'celebrate' the life departed. With a trumpet and drum band making much noise, we waited in the car observing the activities until eventually someone called us through. Before long, we arrived at Munnar and headed to our accommodation set high on a mountain side.



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Reflections

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When we self-drive, we tend to eke out destinations as we travel and many are away from the maddening crowds. Having (rightly) elected to have a car and driver, we are unable to go off the beaten track. Rather, we've headed to the 'usual' tourist destinations.



One of the 'problems' of travel is to find places that offer an enjoyable (tourist) experience, is reasonably authentic, and not overrun with hordes of like minded souls. Our 'typical' source is Lonely Planet, supported by other websites. Essentially, though, Lonely Planet has cornered the market regarding tourism information. There are no real alternatives. But, two attributes have destroyed the credibility of this information source. First, since it was sold (to the BBC and later onsold to an American entrepreneur), there has been no real research to update the texts on the places worth visiting. Second, we 'tourists' all form a queue to see the Lonely Planet 'recommendations', and in so doing we congregate to see these 'wonderful' places. Sadly, the authenticity of many of the original sites have been lost to business operators replacing the quaint traders with 'services' for tourists.



We're not sure whether Lonely Planet has adopted in-country tourism department 'sites', or the other way around. Whichever, the various 'tourist' sites we've visited this week have not only been over-run with tourists but also spoiled in the process.



As an example, back when Lonely Planet was in its infancy, much of the peninsular upon which Fort Kochi sits were said to have tourist appeal. Not now, it's just repetitive stalls / shops selling the same stuff - much mass manufactured elsewhere specifically for tourists. Similarly, the eye catching attractions of Ooty have been destroyed by tourists and traders (seeking their money).



We formed the view that the tourist attractions we've seen so far in southern India were once special, but no longer.



That said, we've made the most of our time by finding alternative 'opportunities' (even if they aren't too special).



But, what has been special for us has been the food. South Indian curries are sensational. They are served (in varying styles and spiciness) for breakfast, lunch and dinner. We'd not entertained curry for breakfast, but with no alternative it was go hungry or try. And, we've been really impressed.



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