In India: Kanchipuram, Monday 2012 January 16

---

We left Chennai in good time, about 9:00, to drive for about two hours on bumpy roads with occasional smooth interludes. As we drove out of the city, we saw many private universities and hospitals, most specializing in one or a few disciplines. Most were examples of the newest and boldest buildings in the city; they were set amongst innumerable squat, cement buildings. Fairly often a temple, some small some large, would appear amongst the jumble and, occasionally they were also gateways into the commercial-looking compounds of gurus.

Gradually the view became more rural, although never unpopulated. Villages seemed to be accumulations of buildings with a few vendors and shops. Large, modern, and multi-storied buildings in compounds indicated the landlord’s home. Because of the Pongal holiday, no one was working in the fields. Often women were wearing red saris in celebration, and sometimes men were wearing red shirts.

As predicted, the roads were bumpy and slow to travel. For a while the highway was just rather rough. Then the road was deteriorated asphalt – inches-deep ruts on the sides, potholes, and broken pavement. Thus we came to Kanchipuram, home of the best silk weavers and best sari collections. Along the street for about a kilometre or more were open-fronted shops spilling colourful saris and fabrics for men’s clothes. Vendors flapped open the tightly folded cloths for customers to examine. Ranks of parked motorbikes (or two-wheelers as they are called here) hemmed in customers and vendors alike.

Our stop brought us to an indoor store, Sri Varadha Silk House. On the nearest counter were heaps of silk scarves. I asked immediately about the saris and was ushered over to another counter. Before leaving Calgary I had used paint-tint-cards from Home Depot as samples to decide on a tangerine orange and mahogany wine red for curtains/drapes in the living room and dining room, so I was able to be quite specific in my choices – so specific that the seller asked me to come round the counter to point at exactly the ones I wanted to see. The orange one was easy to pick but the dark red was harder. The first I thought would do was truly expensive, so he pulled another that I actually preferred because the gold was in a leaf pattern, not polka-dots. The saris are folded tightly in a standard shape about 8”x12” – incredible since they are 48”x6 metres. As small “packets”, about two dozen were neatly stacked on each shelf. One of my saris included an additional metre for the blouse and one did not. Our country guide, JK, was concerned and was chiding the seller and warning me. I leaned over the counter to advise him sotte voce that I was going to make drapes. He visibly brightened and said that gave him an idea, because his wife had 250 saris and wore none!

Then commenced the bargaining. We got partway through, with me having trouble figuring the dollar equivalent – shouldn’t have been difficult, because there are about 50 rupees to the dollar. That’s what stress does for you! As I learned in my lessons in negotiating, I deflected by going to the scarf pile to add to my purchases. The seller actually came over and said they were waiting for me! I maintained my semi-indifference, curtailed my usual desire to give in too soon, and got them all for a price that made the storeowner a bit annoyed – must be right! From over 12,000 rupees down to 9500 rupees ($190), below which he would not go. A happy time!

On to the real event of the day, the Sri Ekambareswarar Temple, an overwhelming structure. The temple tower rises so far into the sky that you have to bend backwards to see it. Outside the entrance we deposited our shoes at a shop that sold a variety of small items and also provided this shoe service. Throughout this large temple were many large carvings of Shiva and his many attributes. At one side shrine, after a donation, a “guru” blessed us with sandal wood paste. Around the perimeter were 1080 (magic number) Shiva lingams.

Our next visit was to the small Makshi Temple on what seemed to be a small side street. We removed our shoes in the bus and walk along the street with a fair number of celebrants. Again, the women were glowing in their red saris decorated with gold borders. Several stalls were doing a brisk business selling souvenirs and objects or fruit to be used as offerings for worship. The temple itself was small and we didn’t go inside, just walked around the courtyard. Most exciting was the decorated elephant near the gate. It was very tame but generated lots of laughter and giggles from the worshippers when it snuffled their necks!

In fairly short order we were back on the bus, feeling rather hot and dusty. Nevertheless, on to the next temple! Kailasanatha Temple is now an archeological site, dating from the eighth century in the Pallava dynasty. The sandstone has worn down, although there is one section showing how hundreds of years ago a restoration was done, surviving as a blackened surface on the old sandstone. Current restorations are underway using a slightly lighter coloured stone to show where the new supplements the old. The meditation niches preserved the lively carvings of Shiva very well, one with a bit of paint left, indicating that we are seeing much less than once was. Few people were visiting this temple, letting the peace settle into me, and giving us a very close look at the intricate designs and carvings.

Finally we had a short stop to see a master weaver at work on a gold-bordered sari. The gold is around a silk core, providing a thread that is woven into the fabric itself. Weaving is a highly skilled craft, and this weaver worked in a space just big enough for the loom and himself. Of course, because of the holiday, almost no one else was at work.

Another couple of hours on the bus brought us to the fabulous resort of Fisherman’s Cove. Each person has a spacious chalet with a veranda furnished by table, chairs, and swinging daybed, and a private outdoor “rain” shower. Within my view, the surf of the Bay of Bengal pounded a hypnotic rhythm. After a rest, I did dabble in the waves, pursued in a desultory manner by a single vendor of souvenirs. But my swimming was in the pool because the sea flag was red.

Unfortunately I have a horrible and severe allergic reaction to the cleaning products and warm oil mosquito repellant used in the chalet. Even leaving the doors open to the clear air inside is almost futile.

For some pleasant yet unidentified reason, one of the chefs showed me particular favour this evening. He was most solicitous of my dairy-free diet and thus made my visit very personal. He asked if I wanted him to make a special dish for dinner, to which I said yes, of course. It was one of the best chicken dishes I have ever eaten, but I have no idea how it was made, except that the sauce was red and thick enough to coat the meat.

---

Photos

Leaving Chennai
Love the vivid colours and wild juxtapositions!

Rail line function?
Why would she drive her cows through the woods when a lovely clear rail line is available?

Silk Road
A long display of fabrics and clothes for every taste.

Khambaranathar Temple
Temple gopuram or tower is 59 metres tall - literally overwhelming

Lingam Collection
Khambaranathar Temple has a collection of 1080 lingams, which represent Shiva.

Sacred Elephant
At Makshi Temple this well-cared-for elephant delighted all of us.

Kailasanatha Temple
An archeological site with the aura of ancient times.