11-13 November 2015 - Mandawa, staying at the Radhika Haveli & Bikaner at the Laxmi Niwas Palace

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11-13 November 2015 - Mandawa, staying at the Radhika Haveli & Bikaner at the Laxmi Niwas Palace



After breakfast in Delhi we departed for Shekhawati region (250kms) (famous for beautiful old mansions and Havelis and frescoe paintings). Traffic in Delhi was quiet at 9.00am because of the Diwali Festival of Light, a 3-day festival celebrating family, brothers and sisters and offering to the gods.



The road was of variable standards which we expected in northern India. After 3 hours we stopped at a lunch spot where we had a curry smorgasbord lunch. Meals are costing about $11-15 AUD each. We arrived in Mandawa at about 3.30pm.



On arrival at the Radhika Haveli (a hotel built by wealthy merchants in the days of the Silk Road before the British took over India). This beautiful 3-story home was beautifully restored, with many patterns and pictures painted on the walls. The décor was very traditional, and our room was spacious with a large comfy bed with all the mod cons (air-conditioning, fans, TV etc). Our hosts were very friendly and helpful, allowing us to choose which room we wanted. After a mango juice and being presented with a lei, we met our local guide.



We had a 2 hour walking tour, visiting many different havelis, many of which have been abandoned by their owners who now live in the big cities. We learned that slowly they are being bought by others and restored and converted into hotels. Even the beautiful Mandawa Castle is now a hotel. Many of the restored havelis have roof-top restaurants which we used.



We visited a very active Art School which is responsible for the painting restoration of the havelis, to their original state.



In Mandawa, which is a small town, there was great excitement with the preparation of the Diwali Festival celebrations. The family of our Haveli invited us to join them on their roof top to light their fire crackers which was the way they all celebrated. It bought back great memories of the Guy Fawkes Nights we used to have, watching the children enjoy lighting the crackers. The fire crackers throughout the town continued well into the night.



That night, we had dinner at the haveli - 6 small bowls of different curries served with rice, naan bread and papadums - yum! We had dinner with a really interesting French couple.



After breakfast the next day, we visit a Shekhawati village, Nawal Garh , Dundlod and other small villages all of which had havelis in different states of repair. We visited the Podar Haveli Museum with a guide who taught us much more about the region's history. They are certainly not positive towards the 300-year period that the Brits where in charge, however, there seems to be some agreement that India can't keep blaming Britain for the state the country is in after nearly760 years of independence.



We saw a lot of evidence of the British rule in some of the additions of the buildings.



Back in Mandawa , our lunch was hosted by the Director of Incredible Real India Tours, Rajendra Singh and Devender Yadav. Three Italians (who have travelled extensively through India over the years) and 4 Indians (one of whom lived in Australia for 35 years and lives just around the corner from us in Chapel Hill!!!!) joined us. The beautiful curry meal which we ate in the traditional way, with fingers and naan bead (they did give me a teaspoon), was eaten over very interesting conversation about more history of India.



After lunch, we walked through the town, seeing the old city gate and soaked up the activities of the town's markets. We ended up at the Castle for coffee.



That night at a roof top restaurant, we sat with an Australian farming couple from Glen Innes, who are 68 and looking to sell their farm because none of their children want to be farmers.



The next morning (13/11) we departed for Bikaner (220kms).



The first hour of driving, the roads were full of pot-holes so the going was slow. Ravi was a very good driver though. We eventually joined the main highway from Delhi, and other than stopping to allow the passenger train from Delhi to cross, as well as herds of goats and wandering cattle from time to time, the going with pretty smooth.



What was really funny was meeting traffic going the wrong way down our side of the highway. That's India!



We arrived at 12.30pm and as we drove down a long straight road we saw our hotel. Wow, it was definitely a palace, and seemed to cover acres. We were met by Indian gentlemen with long curled moustaches and wearing jodhpurs (which were invented in India by the way).



The Laxmi Niwas Palace was built by one of the maharajas in 1902. It has 58 rooms, each of which are expansive. After walking through reception we entered a central lawn which was surrounded by material-draped columns, dining tables, and the 2-storied accommodation. We were given a short tour of the palace on the way to our room. The billiard room had a double-sized table and the walls were covered with lion and tiger skins. It is said that there are more skins in that room than there is lions and tigers left in Rajasthan. We then saw the beautiful pool learning there was to be entertainment poolside from 7-9.00pm. The cocktail bar was furnished with dark, antique furniture. At breakfast a flute player entertained us. I think you have got the picture of this beautiful hotel.



Once settled in Ravi took us to the Junagarh Fort, an unassailable fortress comprising of various palaces, pavilions and a museum containing priceless art and antiques. This was another massive building which took 2 hours to go through. We joined a Melbourne couple who had a guide.



Next we visited Asia's only camel breeding farm which was run by a university group. We saw 100s of camels, which of course are ideally suited to this desert area. Bikaner is on the way to the Great Indian Desert.



Back at the Palace (hotel) we got ready for dinner then sat by the lawn sipping gin and tonic…as you do (lol). While enjoying the beautiful balmy weather (it's been about 26-30 degrees), people who we met and had dinner with in Mandawa walked passed. They ended up joining us again. We learned that they were very good friends with Laura White and family, who boarded with our daughter Kerrie at St Peters Lutheran College - small world.



The next day (14/11) we drove out of Bikaner to Deshnok, where we went to the most incredible place we ever been to (except perhaps for the Bone Church in Serbia). It was the Rat Temple (or the Karni Mata Temple)…yes a temple full of rats. My sister, Sheryl would have loved it (not!).



The story has it that the Karni Mata Lived in the 14th century and performed many miracles through her lifetime. When her youngest son, Lakhan drowned, she ordered Yama, the God of Death, to bring him back to life. Yama could not do this so it was agreed that all Karni Mata's family would be reincarnated to Kabas (rats). It is said that over 600 families claim to be descendents of Karni Mata and will be reincarnated to Kabas. This is why the rats roam/bread freely throughout the Temple. Shiver!!!!



Hundreds of Indians visit the Temple daily and pay their respects and bring gifts to the monks at the Temple.



Everyone has to take their shoes off before going into the Temple. So Tom and I said, 'what the heck, let's do it'. What an incredible feeling. Visitors buy food for the rats and sprinkle it on the floor. I kept on saying to myself 'please let there be no rat climb on my feet. I am relieved to report that Tom & I exited the Temple unscathed!!!!



We hopped back in the car and noticed Ravi just smiled when we gave him our opinion on the experience.



We then drove back through the very busy Bikaner and onto Jaisalmer, into the Great Indian Desert.

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