14-17 November 2015 - Jaisalmer staying at Fort Raywada Palace & to Jodhpur staying at Pal Haveli

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14-17 November 2015 - Jaisalmer staying at Fort Raywada Palace & to Jodhpur staying at Pal Haveli







After seeing the Rat Temple, we depart for Jaisalmer (350kms), out into the Great Indian Desert. As we went back through Bikaner it took an hour or so to get out of the bustle of the morning crowd. As it is 'winter' and therefore cooler (28 degrees), many Indians holiday at this time so it has been more busy than usual, so our guide told us.



Jaisalmer is known as the gold city because of the colour of the rock that the city of 60,000 is built from. This town is 70 kms from the Pakistan border so 20%!o(MISSING)f the population is of armed forces.



The road was OK, other than severe speed bumps in towns and either side of the railway line (no one would stop if there was only a stop sign!!!).



When we arrived in Jasalmer (5.00pm) we drove straight to the Bada Bagh, royal cenotaphs for the sunset. Individual memorial structures were extansive in number. We noticed the short life span of many memorial plaques, including a 1 year old. It was an unusual but lovely spot to watch the sun set. Because there is so much dust in the air and no clouds, the sun disappears behind the lower dust line rather than reflecting as a brilliant sunset.



It was dark by the time Ravi drove us to our accommodation. Wow, and wow again - Fort Raywado Palace, our accommodation for 2 nights, was totally opulent. It was built of the yellow rock 17 years ago. Somehow we got the best suite in the hotel - 2 bathrooms, massive bedroom, separate lounge and with all the mod cons. Its decor was beautiful, with gold trimmings and hand painted patterns on ceilings and walls. At night the whole complex had Christmas-type lights lighting up the shape of every part of the building. We later found poolside entertainment and excellent services and breakfast.



The next morning we had a local guide to take us around the Jaisalmer Fort and to show us some sandstone, intricately carved Havelis. The Fort was perched on top of a large triangular hilltop. It used to be surrounded by a wall but only a tiny remnant can be seen. However, there was (and still is) only 1 gate which was an important defence strategy.



There are 3000 people who live inside the Fort which was established in 1156 and includes a 7 story palace in the main square. The Fort is full of narrow streets, lined with retail outlets for tourists and locals. There were a number of temples for Hindus and Jains. There was a special day for the Jainis so there where many people in white robes with no shoes. We heard a lot of devotional singing and music as we walked through the fort town.



Water is not a problem as there is a pipe from the Himalayan water supply. The initial water supply was provided by a man-made lake - Gadhisar Lake, which we also visited. The lake is no longer used for the people so is purely for recreation. It is full of huge carp as the people do not fish/kill them as they are known as being sacred (forgot the reason why). There was a fantastic vantage point at the Lake, to view the Fort and city.



In the evening, Ravi drove us for 1 hour on a narrow stretch of bitumen road, for a camel safari at the sand dunes. There were several 100 Indian tourists there also but the dunes were extensive so we could wander around the dune on our camel. The Indians had their drums and some of them took the opportunity to take a dune bash in 4x4 vehicles. Again the sunset was non-spectacular but the sun was brilliant orange before it disappeared.



Our Indian culinary delights continued both nights we were in Jais almer.



We are quickly learning that the State of Rajasthan is steeped in history and is known as the "Land of Kings" as there have been over 60 maharajas who have ruled different parts throughout its history. It's certainly a world of majestic forts and lavish palaces. Its countryside ranges from vast sand dunes through to jungles. We are soon to be heading for the latter as we travel south.



The morning of 16 November, we departed for Jodhpur (290kms). The road was good, as long as Ravi watched out for the wandering cattle, the occasional goat and skinny dogs, bad/good Indian drives and big speed bumps. He is a good driver.



Jodhpur, a city of over a million people is marked by the impressive Mahrangarth Fort which is a magnificent skeptical and an architectural masterpiece towering over the city.



We learned that the former Royal family still live and own the Fort & Palace in Jodphur - Gaj Singh is Tom's age and is very active in donating his funds to medical research and certain social issues in Rajasthan.



The first full day in the city we walked around the base of the Fort to find the Old Blue city, a jumble of Brahman-blue cubes (hence the city is known as the blue city) which stretch out along the 10 kms long, 16th Century city wall. Inside is a tangle of winding, glittering, medieval streets which never seemed to lead were we expected them to. We smelt incense, roses and sewers with shops and bazaars selling anything from trumpets and temple decorations, to snuff and saris.



Beyond the Old City was modern Jodhpur but the attraction for a tourist is the Fort.



The next day we visited the Mahrangart Fort, sitting on a rocky hill 120m higher than the skyline of the city, is said to be the best in India with its battlements between 6-36m high, and as the building material was chiseled from rock on which the fort stands; the structure merges from its base. Still run by the royal family of Jodhpur, the fort is steeped with history and legend. The fort includes an extensive museum which was formally the fort's palace.



We have noticed in these forts, spiked doors at the old city gates, to help ward away the charging elephants which were often used in battle…..very solid.



The early Rathore kingdom prospered from trade between Delhi and Gujarat, in sandalwood, opium, dates and copper and controlled a large area that became known as the Land of Death due to its harsh topography and climate.



We visited the spice and vegetable market and Mandor Desert Rock Park garden. This was very under-whelming only because it was so badly managed. In fact it looked as though it wasn't managed at all. There were a number of cenotaphs in the gardens also.



Our hotel was very close to the century-old Clock Tower which is surrounded by vibrant sounds, sights and smells of Sardar Market, which is marked by triple gateways at its northern and southern ends. The narrow winding lanes of the Old City spread out in all directions from here. The area is full of crowded alleys and bazaars selling vegetables, spices, sweets, silver and handicrafts.



We visited the Jaswant Thada, the milky white marble memorial to one of the maharajas.



We also visited the Umaid Bhawan Palace, which was built in 1929 with 365 rooms which took more than 3000 workers 15 years to complete. The building is morterless, and incorporates 100 wagon-loads of Makrana marble and Burmese teak in the interior. Apparently, its construction started as a royal job-creation program during a time of severe drought. Much of the building has been turned into a grand hotel as well as an extensive museum.



An interesting note: If you thought that the riding pants with the loose fitting part above the knee, has the same name as this city, it's because they were invented here, later taken to England which made them a fashion statement, eventually through the world. Interesting bit of trivia!!



I know I have mentioned it before, but we are really enjoying the food - spices, all different types of naan bread, curries, cold beers (we drink manly Kingfisher beer) and the great service. The meals are costing around 1200 rupees ($8-12 each) which is good. Beers are 90-400R, depending on where you buy it (shop or restaurant). Everyone is very friendly. We haven't been ripped off yet, so going well!!!!



Our hotel has got one of the best roof top restaurants in the city they tell us and with the most spectacular view of the Mahrangart Fort and Clock Tower. With the balmy, dry nights, outside dining is magnificent, so how could we not be enjoying ourselves. We are also enjoying the history, the different colours, particularly the ladies saris, the palaces and forts and the different cultural experiences. Wonderful!



Tomorrow we are off to Udaipur.

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