Wanderings in India - 6 - The Thar Desert

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BIKANER

Accommodation - Laxmi Nawas Palace Heritage Hotel

Weather - Hot & sunny - 30C

We had another long journey today, 275km and approximately 6 hours, arriving in Bikaner in the late afternoon.

During the journey we stopped at the small town of Deshnok to visit one of the most extraordinary temples in India - Karni Mata Temple. The facade is of carved white marble with solid silver doors but once inside it becomes clear why this temple is so bizarre - there are literally thousands of 'holy rats' running free and being cared for and fed by the large numbers of pilgrims who visit. Karni Mata performed miracles in the 14th century, when her youngest son was drowned, she ordered Yama the god of death, to bring him back to life but when he was unable to do this, she decreed that all her family, on their deaths, would be reincarnated as rats. There are a very small number of white rats and these are believed to represent the reincarnations of her sons. If a white is seen it is believed to be incredibly auspicious and augers well for future spiritual progress - so the future looks bright for Wandering Peter (see photo!!) this must rank as the most extraordinary experience of the tour - and surely could only occur in India.

We had heard that we were going to be staying in another heritage hotel - but we were not expecting the sight before our eyes. As we approached the hotel along a long driveway we were imagining how the Maharaja must have felt - as glowing pink in the evening sky was a palace with turrets in the corners and central domes and an archway - what a spectacular sight. The inner courtyard, which was the restaurant, was surrounded by intricately carved high sandstone walls with jaalis and windows - a wonderful sight at night with the lights sparkling all around. In the evening we enjoyed a good indian buffet in the stunning surroundings of the courtyard restaurant. Unfortunately our room was not quite of the same standard. One of the problems with heritage hotels is that to maintain their "heritage" status only 25% renovation and updating is allowed from the original, thus many rooms are sparsely furnished and the plumbing leaves a lot to be desired!!

The following day the group set off on a tuk-tuk tour of the old town of Bikaner, zooming along little alleyways, swerving between motorbikes, cars and holy cows, shooting down tiny lanes to avoid any queues - a brilliant way to see the sights and feel part of the local way of life. We stopped off at Bhandasar Jain Temple with interesting vibrant artwork and good views over the surrounding town.

Next a visit to Junagarh Fort, built in 1588, by Raja Rai Singh, on the desert plains not on a hilltop as most other forts in Rajasthan are, with large sandstone bastions, pavilions and ornate balconies. Near the third gate, carved handprints on the wall, commemorate the wives of Rajput soldiers killed in battle who committed "sati" on their husbands funeral pyres - self-sacrificing themselves in the flames of the pyre.

In the evening we go deeper into the desert for a camp fire party, with traditional musiciansand dancers, a very tasty Rajasthani vegetarian buffet and yes you have guessed it - we all changed into traditional outfits!



JAISALMER

Accommodation - Fort Rajwada Hotel

Weather - Hot & Sunny - 30C with clear blue skies

We head south west this morning across the open plains of the Thar desert for the most part consisting of scrubby grassland, sand and low trees. After approximately 330km and 7 hours driving with stops for refreshments we arrive in Jaisalmer in the early afternoon. Jaisalmer is the furthest west we will be travelling in India with the border with Pakistan being only 100km in a direct line. We visit Jaisalmer in the late afternoon - the old town, being surrounded by golden sandstone walls consists, of small alleys lined by shops and stalls with exquisitely carved buildings, imparting a mediaeval feel.

We walk up the hill to the fort, which dominates the town, and glows golden in the late afternoon sun. The fort is home to many people who live in tiny but beautifully decorated havelis. Within this fortified town is the Juna Mahal, part of the oldest palace in Rajasthan.





MANVAR

Accommodation - Manvar Desert Camp

Weather - Hot & Sunny 30C - Cold cloudless nights 6C

This morning we again drive across the Thar desert to Manvar, to a desert camp, set within the beautiful peaceful rolling sand dunes - we are again under canvas, in an even more luxurious tent!! We sit out in the evening sun enjoying the spectacle of a desert sunset while refreshing ourselves with a cold Kingfisher beer - a perfect end to the day.

Next morning before setting off for the journey to Rohet, we have a jeep safari through the dunes to visit tribal Bishnoi people in there small 'dhanis' - traditional desert dwellings and learn about rural lifestyles and cultural traditions.

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Comments

[Helen and Bob]

From freezing Scotland
It looks really amazing and sounds as if you are going from one extraordinary place to the next. I liked the Indian gear, but not the idea of the rats !

[WorldWideWanderers]

From hot and sunny India
Hi Helen & Bob Thanks for all your kind comments - it's great to have some feedback. P & A x