We're in Padum, the capital of Zanskar. A long time ago, it must have been a nice place. But the old town has been abandoned and it is almost destroyed. For the rest it is a stuffy scruffy town. A few shops, but not so many vegetables stalls. We have an "appointment" with a horseman that we had met in Lamayuru when we started. Yesterday, there was no sign of him, and for that matter no sign of any horseman at all. :-( But today we are more lucky, around 11 am, we saw some horses and, yes, the old man was there. He was accompanied by a younger horseman who proposes to cook for us. The deal is made, and although they have 6 horses/mules, they agree to go come with us. It will be
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