All Shook Up!

---

Shimla - Dharamsala - Mcleod Ganj.

The 10 hour bus journey from Shimla (leaving at 7am) to Dharamsala turned out to be an epic 12 hour bone shaking affair! The tyre was changed due to a puncture causing delay and which also caused significant road rage by our driver as he seemed to drive even quicker and more crazier than before, presumably to make this time up. Overtaking on blind corners with 1,000ft drops acceptable driving etiquette over here! Also, at one point we had a bus 'stand off' as neither driver refused to give way. Obviously the best course of action was for the drivers to turn off the engines and get out of their respective vehicles and discuss the matter at length. Eventually, to save face our bus driver drove over the obstacles in the road rather than back up!

We think the drivers and bus conductors over here work on commission as the bus was once again rammed beyond capacity, which actually appeared to cause an argument as the driver didn't think we were going to make the steep climb - we did, just!

Anyway, the scenery during the final couple of hours of the journey was awesome as the snow peaked Himalayan mountains got closer and closer. I wish we had taken a photo then as since arriving here there's been nothing but mist! After arriving at Dharamsala we took a taxi to Mcleod Ganj about 10km away as this is actually where the Dalai Lama lives. As it was late we just got a hotel and had some local Tibetan food - I recommend the spinach ravioli!

Today we had a look around and decided to seek 'enlightment' from the Dalai Lama. We started by visiting a temple and some shops and then broke for coffee and cake. We then thought it about time we checked out the DL's (as we like to call him) pad, so off we went to knock on his door and ask for a cup of chaiy (tea in local lingo). After trekking for about an hour and a half up and down steep roads and then accross narrow uneven and rocky paths through the woodland we almost gave up. We then asked a local guy walking past and he took us in the right direction. After a few more minutes we were back at the temple we started at this morning. DL's pad was 10 yards from where we were sitting this morning! Obviously it's not the most opulent of houses! Apparently he's not in. He's arriving Tuesday some time - I'm sure he'll let us know when.

He didn't let us know so we decided to visit the Tibet museum instead. This explained the plight of Tibetans since Chinese occupation in 1949 and how their country and culture has virtually been extinguished. A staggering 1.2 million Tibetans have died to date as a result of execution, torture and hunger strike. We now understand why we see people on the streets with missing limbs begging for money - it is a result of frost bite whilst fleeing persecution in Tibet accross the Himalayas. It makes you sit back and think how insignificant our worries are.

Anyhoo, we're moving on tomorrow, south this time to Amritsar. Getting a bus at a more respectable hour with only 6 hours (supposedly) of bone shaking to enjoy. Hopefully this will be the last bus for a while and we'll be back on the more luxurious Indian Railways.

---

Photos

Slightly snow peaked Himalayas
Wish we had taken the photos earlier as they were much more impressive, but you get the idea!

Comments

[sue kerrison]

wot no waitrose's
Hi, Lovely to hear your experiences of 'bumpy' rides, still makes good training for being on London buses. Have you made any travelling buddies yet? Glad to hear you're getting some exercise with all those long bus journeys. You're right about taking pictures whenever you can, I usually make that error in thinking I'll take one later, but the variances of the day and weather conditions means you miss the inspiring view initally seen. Was that a Waitrose spinach ravioli?? You'll be gald to hear we are entering a normal Autumn, rain, wind, rain and tornados'. Elaine had a good holiday, and our new addition to replace you, Luca is very pleasant. Don't know if some of our meals will go the Italian way now instead of the spicy recipes we have. Gill and I went to watch Tim Henman's farewell match, brilliant. Anyway, I'll cast off for now, must get things done as it is the Football w/end got to practise my 'deep heat' applications. Keep well, Love Sue x

[John and Pam]

shaking all over
Hi there Mum is shaking all over at the thought of your bus journey and the one to come, Dads and everyone elses driving is nothing on what you had to endure. I think Mum would have got out of the bus and joined in the drivers discussion. You are both having an exiting time which we are enjoying following. Had a card from Pauline and Peggy today which was lovely. Looking forward to your next adventure Love Mum and Dad

[Tom]

The cheek
Fancy the DL not letting you know when he'd be in for you to visit - doesn't he know who you are!! :o) Important news (for Julian) - Argyle decided the Hammers have had a hard enough time of things lately and gave you an easy passage into the next round of the Carling Cup (1-0). Anyway, sounds like you're having a great time, surely Claires mechanic badge she got in scouts would have come in handy when the bus got a flat tyre?!? Oh and the wallaby escaped from a farm.