The Himachal Road Transport Corporation bus from McLeod Ganj has shed the bulk of its load before it reached the inter-state bus terminus in New Delhi. Most of our fellow-travellers had got down at the Tibetan Colony on the northern suburbs of the metropolis. Soon they will dissolve in the urban kettle. But the story of these refugees is the story of the Himachal town called McLeod Ganj, nicknamed ‘Little Llasa’ after the Tibetan capital they left behind five decades ago. McLeod Ganj or Upper Dharamasala is in marked contrast with Lower Dharamasala, a typical north Indian town 9 kilometres ahead of the refugee town. Lower Dharamsala has most of the government offices, schools, hospitals and a bus stand that links to all Indian towns including Delhi, Chandigarh, Pathankot , Simla and Kullu-Manali. Not all the
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