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Published: September 25th 2006
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Driver seat in a State owned Bus
India has somewhat of a problem with ageing infrastructure 2006………6wks-4th CYCLING TRIP-Gujarat & Southern Rajasthan, INDIA...........
Ahmedabad is not quite as polluted and hectic as I thought it was going to be, but it is non- stop and the pollution gets to you after a while. It doesn't look actually that thick as it can be in the new China where in parts they are not able to see their feet. Delhi is apparently the most polluted city in the world now. I went to Gandhi's ashram which was a reinforcement of my knowledge and feeling towards his courage & achievements. He still makes a strong presence in India in statues, on their currency and in the minds of the people. It was good to see the place that was (also in the film) where he set off on the famed march to Dandi to make salt in defiance of the British law, which finally brought independence to a head.
I quite enjoyed scooting around in the autorickshaws (tiny 3-wheeler covered motorbikes- but big enough to hold Chinkara & me) for a change. I wouldn't try cycling here unless I had to. The road is packed with them along with motorcycles, cycles, occasional car, elephant, camel, white horse etc.
Gandhi's Ashram
Gandhi's house in the Ashram where he left for the salt march The buses are generally quite run down, battered & filthy but I have been fortunate in being able to have Chinkara inside rather than bouncing away on the roof. The poor driver of the bus (Ha! -a cow has just poked his head into the internet shop I am in in Udaipur as I write!) had to tie his door shut with a piece of string and hang onto the door as he was going along. The gear box & part of the engine was exposed next to where I sat in the front which was noisy and polluting but convenient for the guy next to me who used it constantly as a spitoon. They are incredibally enthusiastic (even gracious women in the most beautiful saris, but less so) about spitting and squirting water onto the road from the bus, out of a restaurant etc. One guy was considerate enough to cover my mirror with his hand so he wouldn't spray it. There are so many things like this that you just learn to consider 'normal' and stop noticing after a while.
I had a great little lunch at the 'Green House' restaurant with its impecable service and
food. A had a drink of 'Falooda' - a saffron flavoured milkshake of steamed vermicilli and ice cream, topped with salja seeds- and a 'Dahi Bada'- soft ground flour soaked in yoghurt with coriander chilli sauce and topped with pomegranate seeds. The place has a diverse, stylish menu with photos of the food, but they wouldn't let me keep a copy.
I visited two of the city's famous baolis or step-wells with landings and galleries. The 'Dada Hari Wav' was really unlike anything I had seen before: going down steps and landings until right down the bottom , looking up it must be 3- 4 stories high and you can walk on top of the roof of the whole long structure. The L.P guide book correctly describes it as "neglected & often bone dry, its fascinatingly eerie". It was built in 1499 by a woman of Sultan Begar's Harem. The "Mata Bhavani's Well' which is thought to be several hundred years older is less ornate or extensive in its design but is colourful and active as a simple Hindu temple.
The step wells of drought-prone Gujarat & Rajasthan are unique to N-W India. First built by the Hindus
and then by the Moghuls, they served as both status symbols and common meeting places. People would take refuge from the summer heat, forming stopping places for the long caravan routes.
I visited the extensive and beautifully displayed Calico Museum which houses one of the world's finest collections of antique & modern Indian textiles. There is a huge display and many are over 4oo yrs old. The whole procedure in seeing the exhibition is taken very seriously- no bags, no camera or mobile phones, sign in with passport details, highly informed guide/ curator in groups no larger than 30. It is set in a wonderful tropical garden in a 'haveli' ("traditional, often ornately decorated residences, particularly those found in Rajasthan & Gujarat) constructed from several old houses rich with wood carving.
The 'Times of India' was slipped under my door this a.m. and one of the articles is sending me north to Rajasthan rather than further south into Gujarat:- "Six die as heavy rains lash Saurashtra, Kutch." While we are on the paper, the article below reports the "the Quick response Cell of the Rajkot police on Sunday seized foreign liquor worth Rs5 lakh from a house in
Rajkot. One Deepah Haribal Pala was nobbed with 51 bottles of foreign liquor." As Gujarat is a dry state, heading to Rajasthan maybe a good move.
It is interestng to see what other countries report on. Other bits & pieces from the newspapers have been:
-The paper raised concerns that there is a high level of promiscuity associated with Navrati the hindu festival comiing up on the 23rd. People writering in thought we should trust young people to do the right thing.
-The paper reported that a Dr. has been charged with sex determination (ie if it's a girl then there is an opportunity for an abortion of the foetus.) Gujarat has 850 girls to every 1000 boys.
-The Times of India gives Bollywood film reviews 2nd page coverage.
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Kath
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Nearly holidays! Yahoo!
Hi Peter, Love reading about your travels! Two days until I start holidays! I have had a great term with a lovely group of children but I am really tired and am looking forward to relaxing for a while. I am going to Kingscliff for the second week of the holidays (near Byron Bay) so hopefully will get some good weather!! Rog comes home tomorrow from Hobart. He sets sail on the 12th. October. This time for almost 7 months! Girl power could almost be out of control by the time he gets home! Stay safe, love Kath x