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Published: September 29th 2006
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Swimming Pool, Udai Bilas Palace, Dungapur
It is so designed that it feels you are swimming in the lake. 2006………6wks-4th CYCLING TRIP-Gujarat & Southern Rajasthan, INDIA...........
The clapped out but reliable bus trip of 4 ½ hours was largely on a new freeway which was a surprise The last section, however' was along a bumpy old road in rural Rajasthan, prior to us pulling into Dungapur or ‘The City of Hills”. The truck drivers haven’t got used to the idea that they can stay in one lane on the new road and they straddle across the two lanes, invoking the ‘Horn Please' response. I saw a billboard of some ants in a line with the caption along the lines of "If insects can queue then why can't we, the humans"
I stayed the first night in the town at the Hotel Prathibha Palce, which was hardly a palace, but at less than $5 for a double room it was adequate. I got up early at sunrise to see the lake and the palace on its shoreline. I rode out past the palace along some dirt tracks into the bush a bit before going back to the Udai Bilas Palace to get to see the old Maharajah's palace, the Juna Mahal. This was the other thing that I particularly wanted
Udai Bilas Palace, Dungapore
Photo of a photo at the palace to see on this trip.
Other than the guard in uniform at the imposing front gates, there was no one around and so I wandered around unfettered taking photos before I might be shooed off for having inadeqaute funds. I did end up staying here, however, as it was quite reasonable after a 20% discount, making it 2,600rp (a bit less than $80). After showering & changing in my turn of the century / 1940's/ current opulant room and bathroom, I got an autorickshaw to the Juna Mahal. I entered through a small entrance gate of the main massive anti-elephant gates with huge spikes in them. I followed the 'boy' up to the abandoned multi layered palace, deserted since the royal family left it in the 1940's for the lake palace, The lake palace was extended following the maharajah getting married. The Udai Bilas Palace (the new palace where I am staying) consists of a 1930-40's addition onto the original 1860's lake palace.
The "Juna Mahal', built and added onto since the 13C is a wedding cake of level upon level of landings and a myriad of rooms. The detailed artwork, intricate mosaics, fine frescoes, murals and friezes
Front entrance, Udai Bilas Palace
Once you get past the guard at the front gate just keep on going as you move through the palace. Wall to wall, ceiling to ceiling- ancient battles, tales of Krishna, royal meetings of the court, moorish design and Hindu epics enrich the bedroom, dressing rooms, meeting halls, Krishna room. One room is entirely of mirrors and mosaic, including the floor. A cupboard is lined with Kuma Sutra positions which the guide offers a torch to view in greater detail!
It feels like an absolute privledge to be able to view so freely the past splendour of a royal family in such a state of abandonment. It is not like walking through a museum of a building where you imagine what it was like. This is just a building that is as it was left. I have taken a bundle of photos. The face of the 'iconic' maharajah appears in different places in the Juna Mahal and is carried through to the present palace with the new swimming pool having a mosaic in the floor of the pool adjacent to the carved tortoise seats that are submerged in the water.
I had lunch in a very busy (always a good sign) dhaba (basic restaurant) where thalis were the
go. This is a complete, all you can eat, affair of rice, chappatis, pappadam, two or three curries, dhal, curd, pickle. They just keep adding to what you have eaten until you say enough. The owner/manager yelled directions in Hindi to staff and patrons alike- "move over so he can sit down", "this person needs more chapati" etc. Cost?....80 cents. When you pay you are offered some aniseed and sugar to aid digestion.
The afternoon was spent soaking up the absolute opulance of the palace by and in the pool. The marble and tiled pool is so designed that the edge facing the lake has no side- it just drops away at water level giving the apparent experience of swimming in the lake. The palace is set off by a water folly building on an island with cupolas and a hedge garden.
Drinks prior to dinner, were served in the 'African Room' which is described as having "a fine display (read killed & stuffed) of the wild fauna of Africa". There would be at least 65-70 hunted and slaughtered animals, the last dating back only to 1982. From Hippos to lions, to gazelle to a highly sought after,
I would think, laminated table with giraffe legs (not the whole leg as that would make the table a trifle high! - most unusual!) The desire to hunt, kill and to own and display is evident in other rooms, particularly the dining room which has another 60-70 animals including about 6 tigers. I would have thought one for the collection sufficient and more appropriate but then the diaplay of opulence is part of royalty isn't it. The room has an enormous dining table seating 40 or so comfortably. On the floor is what appears to be an equally huge hand knotted Kashmiri carpet. Dinner at 450rp (approx $14) was a 3 course affair of cauliflower soup & pappadams, chicken and vegetables in separate large copper lidded turines, rice and followed by icecream and chocolate sauce. It was the whole theatre of priviledge that made the experience for the night and which follows through to the place. There are 'boys' there to meet your every need, be it carrying your glass for you from the African Room to the Dining Room, or preparing your bed for the night while we were dining. When I went back to my room the bedside
lamp was on, curtains drawn, AC on and the crisp white sheet folded back with a red hibiscus flower on it. ...I can see why the British didn't want to go home!
The tropical french door/ window routine is really quite lovely- hinged blocks of wood to stop them slamming; the 'boys' coming in to close everything up when the monsoonal afternoon rains threatened with its tell tale cool breeze kicking up the lake's waters; the curtains being able to be drawn for privacy in the alcove formed by the open french screen doors.
Just after sunrise I took the row boat out that was moored in front of the Palace's water gate entrance. Gliding silently along peacefully getting a shifting palace perspective, framed by the 'folly'...........to be continued
I hope all is well with you all
pedallingpete
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dogwoman
non-member comment
WOW
Hi there Peter, wow, I am really enjoying your blog, you are doing an amazing job and obviously enjoying your trip. Thank you for sharing with me/us.. Take care. J