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Published: September 24th 2006
Gods to the Land,Pavagadh Hill
Mmmmm, better not say anything !2006………6wks-4th CYCLING TRIP-Gujarat & Southern Rajasthan, INDIA...........
I’m on the balcony of my double room that has an expansive view down across the Gujarat plain. I’m about half way up the Pavagadh hill at what would be about the height of Mt Lofty. The volcanic hill appears out of no where from the plain. I am here to see another world heritage site, the former 8C Chauhan Rajput Capital which was later developed between 15C & 16C by Sultan Begara. A 6Km wall was noted for its impregnability and strategic positioning but was overthrown by the Moguls and went into decline after 1535.
Significant parts of the wall at the base of the hill are still in tact and enclose the existing Champaner village, which I can see way below from my balcony. I enjoyed going up the rest of the hill from here to the top by chairlift with the other pilgrims to visit the 10C Kali Mata Hindu temple. I discretely watched for a while as they lined up to receive their blessings (coconut and tinselled cloth included).
I’ve learnt to dislike the Sadhus or roving holy men as everyone I have come across are demanding of baksheesh and
arrogant. One said hello to me and wanted to shake hands but wouldn’t let go, wanting to get 5 rps. It has been a relaxing place to stay watching the monsoonal afternoon rains come rolling in, running down the steps to avoid the worst of it and gathering under a makeshift shelter as it started to waterfall down the steps.
I have enjoyed all the animal life- little frogs that are so tame, the cry of wild peacocks and those promenading in the garden, mischievious monkeys and scampering squirrels. The squirrels have been a recurrent theme since I have arrived in India, often chasing each other & scampering out of the way as I cycle. I have seen three other tourists here. Most tourism is local or from Mumbai.
I walked up to the spur that goes out from the main path up to the top. You can look back here across to the hotel, up to the temple at the top, down into a steep valley on one side and down to the winding road coming up from the Champaner site, village & lake on the plain below. It wasn't very far or highly exerting but I
needed a shower again when I got back. The humidity is so high here that you easily perspire with nowhere for it to go. It is 36degrees during the day and 26degrees at night. It is a relief when the monsoonal clouds break in the afternoon bringing a cool breeze and rain.
I enjoyed riding down the hill through forest today to visit the mosques forming part of the Champaner site. After visiting the Jama Masjid I rode around the tracks with thick bush either side. In attempting to get to another mosque I ended up following a wet track that turned into a very, very muddy cow track with 'Chinkara' getting clogged with mud. I paid one of 'the boys' at the hotel 10rp (30 cents) to clean her up as suggested by the Tourism Assoc Hotel Manager with whom I had a lengthy chat over chai.
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