Anjuna

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The lonely planet mentioned something about the days of Anjuna being the place to see and be seen as long passed. That was a couple of years ago now, and I think it's even more apt a description today, especially towards the end of the season. My first impression was that there were parties going on everywhere - I could here Goan trance music coming fom all directions in the distance and at first I thought that the daytime raves and parties that were in my book still existed. I soon realised however that the source of this music was not a proliferation of parties, but rather of restaurants and shops each competing for valuable air space in order to entice the various passers-by into their premises. Most nights there wasn't much activity past 9pm, apart from the stray dogs that followed you home along the beach. Once a couple of dodgy local guys on a motorbike offered to take me to hilltop party, though for once I exercised a bit of caution and politely declined. I did however manage to check out the somewhat impressive Club Paradiso one night, Goa's biggest night club which can apparently put on a good night in the high season. The night I went however, most of the multi-storied, multi-terraced and multi-dancefloored club was closed off, with only one psychedelically decorated dance floor pumping out the obligatory trance to a small crowd of mainly over-enthusiastic young Indian males.

The beach itself was rather unimpressive, a few shacks fronting an uninspiring beach with guesthouses behind. The water was dirty, full of rubbish (I even managed to have a syringe wash into me) and rocky to boot. Rather than spend my days lazing about like the old hippies and younger holidayers, I decided to hire a scooter and cruise up and down the coast. I'd never thought I'd be game to get on a road in India, but around here was pretty quiet, and I quite enjoyed my little Honda Activa. I could get it up as high as 80km/h when the road allowed, but as this was where the red zone on the speedo started, I didn't push it much past that. I managed to check out most of the overdeveloped beaches up and down the coast as well as a couple of forts and the local prison. I got stopped by the fuzz down near the prison and only avoided a fine by remembering at the last minute that those papers I'd seen earlier under the seat might actually be the requisite registration documents. This was much to the disappointment of the police, who would have to go without their baksheesh. I also managed to also nearly crash a couple of times, getting a little too confident for my own good. Unfortunately the horn and brake were unoperable at the same time (due to distance constraints), which made it hard to duck back into the traffic after coming flying around a bus, horn blazing in the traditional Indian manner, only to be confronted by oncoming traffic. A general lack of indicating also caused me some grief at various intersections, not to mention constantly getting dirt and dust in my eyes. All good though.

I also managed to check out the infamous Anjuna Wednesday markets, but failed to be impressed by the hundreds of square metres of locals selling the same shit over and over. The heat, combined with incessant cries of "come look my shop" and "looking is free" (if you place no price on your sanity) made for a less than enjoyable experience, though an experience nevertheless.

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Photos

Anjuna Beach
Nothin but old hippies and young tourists layin in the sun all day.

Anjuna Sunset
This was going down every evening.

Holy Cow
Local Anjuna woman looking after a couple of sacred cows.

Anjuna Markets
Local merchant.

Road Trippin'
Myself on the mighty Honda Activa.

Road Trippin' 2
Pleasant riverside cruising.

Fort Aguada Prison
This is where you could end up for 10 years if you get busted for even a tiny amount of hash. Nice location, but I don't think it's too nice inside.

Mixing With the Locals
It's not unusual for a group of Indians to ask you to pose for a photo with them for no reason other than you're not Indian. Thought I'd get one taken too.