As I crossed the pedestrian bridge at Visakhapatnam train station I looked down upon the long blue snakes of the waiting trains and tried to decide which might be ours. There was a departure time listed for our train (the 1VK Visag to Kirandul passenger) but no platform number and at six in the morning there was nobody at the counters to ask. Though none of the ticket booths were open the platforms were all busy with the constant buzz of commuters, coolies, venders and beggars, all going about their lives with typical languorous efficiency. After a couple of failed attempts we found our train, located our carriage, gained our seats, purchased a breakfast of coffee and biscuits and then settled in for the 2 hour trip to Tyada in the Aruku Valley. A comparatively short
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