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Published: July 10th 2010
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I didn't title this entry "Prepare your wallets" because Lijiang is expensive. It is still cheaper than Shanghai, but almost everywhere is. I gave it that title because you should be prepared for excellent shopping when you come here! It ranks up there with Hoi An in Vietnam in my book, but they sell different stuff, much of it made by local artisans. There is a lot of jewelry, woodcarving, and textiles made by the local Naxi people. People here actually don't speak a lot of English, but they are friendly and not pushy at all. Many of them don't say anything to me, probably because they don't speak English. So all morning I felt free to wander the streets of the Old City and look to my heart's content without being bothered. As a result, I spent money I hadn't planned to spend, but I got some great deals. I can't say what they are as some are gifts.
Anywho, I've decided I like this town very much, even though the German guy I met in Jinghong described it as "Disneyland" and "so expensive." He clearly hasn't tried shopping or eating or drinking or buying coffee in Shanghai, but
Waterwheels in Lijiang
on the outskirts of the Old Town he said he's been there. Coffee here is expensive for what you get, but I've already found locally brewed beer, Dali, which is excellent and only 12 RMB for a liter! Holy Cow! Cannot beat that.
I have to put in a shameless plug here for N's Kitchen. I stopped here for lunch because their card said they have good pizza. I've looked all over China for good pizza and was convinced there was none to be found. I was wrong. I found it today. It was a 12 inch (why is pizza always described in inches in countries that otherwise only use the metric system?), thin crust, pepperoni, mushroom, black olive, onion, little bit of cheese and homemade tomato sauce, piece of pure heaven. That's where I also had a liter of good beer for just over 1 USD. I was so happy. I am still happy. I might go there again tomorrow and have exactly the same thing. The staff spoke excellent English, and understood me perfectly! They also rent mountain bikes, have a book exchange, and help organize bus tickets, among other services. The address is 2nd floor of No. 17, Jishan Alley, Xinyi Street, Old
Wanggu Pavilion
In Lion's Head park Town Lijiang, but that won't help you find it. Just be on the lookout for it when you're walking around. It's actually on the corner of a small square that has park benches in the center.
I took a stroll up to Lion Mountain, or something like that. There were only old Chinese people up there in the park, and then I stumbled upon the reason I was asked to pay 15 RMB to enter. Wanggu Pavilion was on top of the mountain. LP gives horrible directions to this place. Anyway, it is really beautiful and worth 15 RMB to visit, and there is almost no one up there. There weren't many people up there, so if you're looking for a peaceful place to take a stroll, this is a good option. There are lots of benches to take a rest, although the walk isn't a long one.
After lunch I decided I'd spent enough money and taken enough photos of buildings, doorways, and dogs sleeping in doorways, so I came back to the hostel to catch up on my blog. There are apparently a lot of Americans staying here, college students who say 'like' every other word
Yin and Yang
set in stone at Wanggu Pavilion and talk like valley girls (didn't that go out of style in the 80's?) and have a lot of misconceptions about what a good deal is. One gal, the loud one from last night, got, oh my God, such a good deal on a name stamp, oh my God, only 70 RMB. "Oh my God, that's awesome!" responds the college boy sitting next to me on the computer. I hate to burst that gals bubble, but those same stamps are about 25RMB at a super, uber (their words...) touristy area in Shanghai, one of the most expensive cities in the world!
I'm American, so I have no qualms about making fun of these college students, especially since I've lived here for two years now and have seen the true face, or at least part, of China.
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