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Published: September 3rd 2012
I didn't remember saw any costume dressed Yao in Nandan town 11 years ago, but this time…everywhere, not just women, man with costume could be seen all the time. so far in all my tribal-travel life…only the man of Baiku Yao kept to their ethnic costume daily. with the town renovated and road network upgraded. people live in remote villages now could come to town for shopping more easy. I think that was why I didn't see many dress Yao before than now. Although Nandan town got nothing special but it is an easy going place with more than enough guesthouses and restaurant.
Revisited Lihu market after a decade time. same busy and the market square remain the same. but the town did expand further with a small park. The Yao costume scene wouldn't disappointed you here, many women still kept to the old dressing style. two pieces and without any under garment. I guess because Lihu is a 100% Yao populated region. they might feel more comfortable to live their own way. 4km further there is an ecological muesum had been setup for this unique Baiku Yao. it was there since 2004. beside the muesum hall. the idea was
to present the Yao culture by link up 3 villages and tried to preserved their traditional way of life. but same like any other Chinese preserved project. the noise sound loud only at the beginning, now the muesum is rundown with no managment. the 3 villages seem to prefer to try out the modern life style by build more concrete houses if possible. 100 of million had be spend for the project. but only work when some so-call big-come to visit.
Beside the unique Baiku Yao. Nandan County also live one tribe of Miao on the north west corner of the region. Zhongbao is a rough area leak of water resource. road got through only recently. There was no guesthouses and restuarant. most only appeared on market day, also the Miao that I came looking for. At first sight their dress were similar to the Baiku Yao with a 2 pieces style and pliated skirt. but the Miao here had pattern design on both piece, and the back piece is longer with an embroider panel at the bottom. also they added a pair of heavly embroidered sleeve. their skirt are thick and wounded fattly with long belt.
they wear white legging and blue head scraf. some woman still came with many silver chokers around their neck. There are not much scenic area around Zhongbao. but 25km back down to Yueli where couple of paddy area surrounded by rocky hills offered many photo action. and plenty of trails could lead you up different hilltop for view. with more time and energy…more 15km back on the road to Nandan around the village Nongsha, similar scene could be find.
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