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Published: January 13th 2016
For me, as far as experiences in China go, the
four-day cruise on this mighty river must be one of those at the very top of the list. From the commencement in
Yicheng to the time we spent in
Chongqing on disembarkation, it can only be described as mind opening and thrilling.
Flying in from Shanghai on China Airlines we were, unbelievably, served a very tasty hot meal (choice of pasta, chicken or pork- surprise one), for such a fairly short flight of only ninety minutes (North America airlines - wake up!). While in Yicheng we visited a museum and marveled at the artifacts recovered before the water swallowed the ancient sites on completion of the dam. Later, with a stout pole resting across his lean shoulder, our porter picked up our two heavy suitcases, and balancing them on either end, hurriedly and skillfully shuffled towards our waiting river cruise ship in
Yicheng. Traditionally dressed employees greeted us with broad smiles and typical Chinese music as our cruise director welcomed the four of us and escorted us to our cabins. That is where the fun began and the tone for the voyage set. Showing us to our lovely cabin, I
joked that I thought he was taking us to the Presidential suite instead, to which he replied, "We have two, would you like to see the vacant one?" It was a large suite with lobby, open dining and living area and a bedroom ensuite with a king-size bed made a decision to immediately upgrade, a "no brainer", when he told us the minimal cost. We secured it immediately and settled in. Its
large floor to ceiling windows provided excellent outside views and our suite soon became a social meeting place for us and the new friends we made on board.
Setting off from the dock we made our way towards the enormous
The Three Gorges Dam, the site of which we had visited by coach hours earlier. Spanning the
Yangtze River, it is the world's largest power station. The dam flooded
archaeological and cultural sites and displaced some 1.3 million people but it is a vast, imposing and most impressive structure, although a controversial one. Looking down at it during the earlier land visit, we all marveled at the engineering feat that facilitated the movement of huge ships through five locks before emerging at the higher level. And that
was exactly what we were about to do, as our ship edged slowly towards the first lock, its gaping doors opening wide to receive us and three other vessels. In another set of locks, the reverse happens. I will let the pictures speak for themselves.
After the
four-hour traverse of the dam we made our way westward and up river, stopping at many most fascinating sites along the way. One of those was our ride in a peapod through the
Shennong Stream as the boatmen rowed their traditional craft up the narrow tributary. Nearby we were shown an area where caviar is farmed for export. Sturgeon and salamander inhabit these waters, the latter coming ashore at night. Along the way, high up and suspended against the cliff we were shown a coffin, demonstrating the burial tradition of the ancient people of that area. The boatmen walked for hours from home and worked for the Government on a shift system taking tourists up the spectacular stream. They know firsthand what severe hardship feels like but they all went about their work with great spirit and enthusiasm, laughing and joking with each other as one boat raced the other, to the
enjoyment of their passengers.
We also visited the mysterious
Fengdu Ghost City. From the dock where we berthed, a long flight of 500 steps greeted us once we had traversed the pontoons. From the top of the rather steep incline we then boarded a coach to the gondola which took us up the mountain to the city,
perched as it was in the mist and mystery of Chinese mythology and Buddhism. It was like being literally in another world, far removed from my Christian heritage and yet strangely, seemingly in perfect place and harmony in this ancient civilization. The place consisted of several buildings, including a
1,600 year old temple, various structures,
dioramas and statues that are related to
Diyu, the concept of the
underworld and hell.
The cruise itself completely sold us on the benefits of river cruising and although a later Panama Canal cruise on the Azamara Journey set the standard for ocean cruising, in terms of intimacy and levels of service, the Yangtze cruise was uniquely special. One evening the four of us represented Canada by dressing in red and white and participating in a talent show, singing three traditional Canadian songs, led by Helen
and Karen and earning much applause. On board, movement was imperceptible as the vessel glided smoothly along, passing vessels of all types plying each direction. We observed what appeared to be a
vibrant ship building industry along the shore at several points and
countless coal mines spewing its black content through shafts to waiting carriers berthed below. We passed cities and countless
modern bridges which spanned the mighty river. Numerous new buildings near the shore line interspersed by older traditional residences that littered the hillsides, told the story of the relocation of the people from their now flooded homeland, since the dam construction.
Life on board was relaxing and filled with laughter and lots to drink as we and our new friends shared moments on the forward deck together or otherwise in our suite sipping wine. Our meals were always together as there were only about a dozen English speaking passengers on board for that segment. We participated in the entertainment along with our other Canadian friends, enjoyed the Captain's cocktail party a nd at other times simply lay in bed watching the scenery pass us by through our large windows, starboard side.
We ended the cruise by
taking the
Funicular up to the huge
municipality of Chongqing and its nearly 30 million people. Once again, we toured areas of interest in the city, taking pictures with the
Smiling Buddha in Emperor Yu's Palace, learning still more about this interesting and once closed society. We learnt much about the various teas at
The Tea House , learning how to brew and drink
white Ginseng, oolong etc. At the Peoples Square, scores of people were enjoying dancing and Jeanette and Karen joined in. Some people were even doing the Flamenco. As we continued to mill around
The Peoples Square, an interesting activity came to my attention as a long line of what appeared to be brand new police cars made its way slowly into the square. When I saw the television camera crews positioning themselves I knew that something of interest was about to take place. The cars soon made a formation then each driver and a companion exited and lined up ahead of them. All in immaculate uniforms, I witnessed an amazing sight. They were all women with two discerning attributes - they were almost all identical in height and weight and looked like clones of each
other, yet beautiful. It was the graduation turning out ceremony for a new crop of women traffic police officers. I was even bold enough to ask if I could take a picture of one of them and she happily agreed, smiling for my camera (see photo). That was typical of the Chinese we came across throughout the visit - warm, friendly and receptive, despite the language barrier. A smile certainly reveals the nature of the heart, I think.
Since 1362 this city of Chongqing has endured conflict and conquest by the
Yuan, Ming, Manchu and Qing dynasties becoming today, one of
China's largest emerging megacities. It has a significant history and culture and is the economic centre of the upstream Yangtze basin and a manufacturing and transportation hub, clearly demonstrated by the large volume of river traffic we witnessed.
I summarize our cruise using
Jeanette's words,
"One cannot describe a cruise on the Yangtze River. One has to experience it. It was like having our own private yacht, with superb service, laundry, including impeccable ironing of our clothes at minimal cost, excellent meals and on and on. I could do this every six months." I have far
too many pictures and could not possibly share them all but do enjoy the selection.
Next, on to Xian.
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Kim
non-member comment
Nice!