Happy in the Hutongs

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Geo: 39.9056, 116.396

Last night we were taken for dinner to a rather expensive restaurant, the X.E. Flavour Restaurant, by Dr Sun, Feng and Zhang. This was upstairs in a new building and we walked along several corridors all of which had private rooms on each side. We went into a large dining room where we were greeted by several staff. While we caught up with Feng, Dr Sun ordered and then we were presented with a series of interesting dishes including Peking duck with the pancakes etc as well as dates stuffed with sticky rice( which were delicious) and Tofu (which was not). A whole fish was particularly tasty while there were several other plates of meats, pork, chicken etc. This was all washed down with Yansing beer. Needless to say there was far too much for the 5 of us.

However, it was a very pleasant evening as they are all lovely people. Fletcher has known Feng and Zhang for 25 years since the first course he lectured on in Jakarta and they still refer to him as "honoured teacher". The conversation ranged widely and when I mentioned that I was disappointed that there was no Facebook in China, Feng just smiled and said they had their ways of doing things!!

Today we set out to explore the Hutong areas thanks to Sr Jo's suggestion in response to yesterday's blog. We had a fabulous day! We caught the underground to Behai Park station and then walked along the old streets. The Hutongs are small alleyways where the more traditional housing is situated.This whole area is known as Shichahai Scenic Area and surrounds three lakes, Qianhai, Houhai and Xihau. We first came to Qianhai lake and the Lotus Market. Here there were several skating and sledding spots on the frozen lake with many of the local people thoroughly enjoying themselves in the misty but fine morning air. It was great, strolling along, watching how Beijingers have fun utilising the ice in the frosty conditions.

After we had nearly circumnavigated the lake we went into the small streets where the government has spent much time and effort in rebuilding this old area. Most of it has been done since the Cultural Revolution, particularly in the '90s and early 2000s. Obviously the tourist dollar has been a great incentive. Small streets lined with two storey houses, shops and restaurants abound and we thoroughly enjoyed window shopping and seeing the old culture. We walked down Yandai Byway which was also known as the tobacco sellers street but now it is full of shops of all varieties.

We eventually came to the Drum Tower and behind that the Bell Tower. These have been restored and are fine examples of Chinese Imperial architecture. Several temples have also now been restored. We stopped at the Fire God's temple which seems to be still being used for its original purpose though many of the others are now administrative buildings. By now it was 12-30 and we had been walking for two hours so we stopped at a local restaurant and had fried prawns and calamari with fried rice for lunch. Delicious and filling.

We then continued our walk along the next lake, Houhai. This is lined on both sides with many small bars and cafes. Obviously it would be booming at night time, particularly in summer. Fletcher's knee and ankle were holding up well so we refused the many offers of rickshaw rides and kept walking. There is much more to see that way. We came to an area where there was much recreational activity. Several men were swimming in the near frozen lake!! When they got out there was much oiling of bodies etc. I was wrapped in my long coat, gloves and hat so couldn't imagine how cold the water would be. There were also many playing cards, chess and mahjong in the park and other areas of the frozen lake had skaters gliding swiftly. We came to a walled garden, once occupied by Soon Ching Ling (Madame Sun Yat-Sen). It was open to the public but it was getting late so we passed on entering.

When we came out from this area my map showed Jinshu station to be close by. However, as we discovered yesterday this is deceptive!. After a half hour or so of walking and several enquiries from locals we eventually located it and caught the underground back to the hotel, arriving about 4-30pm. It was getting dark by then and becoming very cold.

We really enjoyed the day. It was an area to which neither of us had been before and great to see the "old" Beijing rather than the High Rise it has become. Thanks, Jo for suggesting it!!

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Comments

[Melissa]

Father looks very amusing in his hat. Looks fascinating though!