Sihanoukville & Chi Phat

---

The southern seaside town of Sihanoukville was not what we expected. Named after Cambodia's former king, Sihanouk, it seemed to be more a town of people getting royally drunk. Bars, restaurants and tourists reigned supreme here, like coming back into Goa with every stretch of land being used. We had a hard time finding a room as most were full or overpiced but managed to get a bed at 'Cool Banana' guesthouse where after a ten hour journey from Kratie via Phnom Penh we were ready to dip in to some of the towns regal pursuits ourselves.

The resort-like atmosphere was slightly disorientating having come from the peaceful town of Kratie. The disparity between normal Cambodia and beachside Sihanoukville was palpable not least because there were no Cambodians living there. Even the bars used English staff. We did however find a nice, more local, food market a little out of the beachside strip where we could eat for a more reasonable price with some Cambodians.

The nearest beach to us was Serendipity which was lined for as long as the eye could see with deck chairs and loungers from their repective bars. It was a sad sight to only see a little of the white sand. The only saving grace was the boards that said "Anchor draught $0.50". If you can't beat them join them. We did find a patch of undeveloped beach where we swam and sunbathed but it was a very long walk.

That evening we met up with some French guys we'd met on the bus to Sihanoukville for a party at Utopia. It was good fun with ample entertainment from fire-dancers and the absyinthe drinking local (local meaning tourist who had worked there a long time). We had heard that there was a sailing club in the vacinity that rented Hobie Cat Sailing Dinghies so we decided to stay one more day and rented a motorbike to get there. As the nonchalent French owner of 'Otres Nautica' said "it's always windy here" and it was. The white horses were out and within seconds of launching we were off at a rate of knots. It was brilliant to be sailing in such warm spray aboard a quick, easy to use boat.

The next day we moved on to a small riverside village called Chi Phat. It was billed as an Eco-tourism project which I mentioned to Han was code word for 'give me your money-ism'. Nonetheless a small business idea in a village where there is litle work, and subsequent illegal logging, meant our stay there was providing villagers with some money.

The boat took two hours to get there, the engine so loud we had to wear ear-plugs. However it was a scenic journey along a scarcely inhabited river. We took the cargo boat that leaves everyday from Adeung Teuk to Chi-Phat as it was the cheapest option but were surprised when the only cargo onboard was Anchor beer. What was it all for? Maybe the people of Chi-Phat like a good tipple.

Once arrived we had to register with the tourism centre and were assigned a homestay. This felt a little weird as we weren't dealing directly with the people. Our homestay was a very long and hot walk out of the village down dusty lanes but was great. It sat in a beautiful orchard amidst a peaceful setting of hammocks and Dorian fruit trees. It was so hot and humid that lying in a hammock was all that we could do after we arrived.

Our homestay didn't offer food and we were strongly advised to eat at the tourism centre. This meant paying comparitively big sums of money for food so we went in search of the local tucker. Being so far out of the centre and without transport made finding somewhere to eat a little tricky. We found a place that looked popular with the locals where they seemed to serve food but what made them so popular was the television. They had not one but two TVs, one showing Tom & Jerry and the other a Cambodian soap opera, each competing for highest decibal levels. It was funny seeing how England must have been when television was first invented. The community gathering around the hallowed box. Food consisted of a cambodian take on pot noodles, but it was cheap.

Due to our location and wanting to see the surrounding area the next day we rented bicycles at the centre. Guided tours of the jungle and nearby waterfalls were at 'eco-takeyourmoney-ism' prices so we did it ourselves. We found a nice waterfall, well it would be nice in the wet season, and then a refreshing swimming hole where we spent the rest of the day.

We cycled down to the riverside for sunset and on the way back came accross what seeemed like a party. We stopped to see what all the fuss was about and before we could park our bikes were promptly invited in. A scattering of tables were layed out each with a crate of Anchor beer on. We sat down with a smiley group and soon they were dishing the beers out to us and serving lavish amounts of food. It was brilliant, these unexpected treats are what is special about travelling. The good will of strangers and communities.

The food kept coming and the beer kept flowing. Nobody spoke English on our table but they knew how to drink their anchor and I was soon being urged to down mine. The locals seemed so pleased that we joined them in their celebrations but were more than keen for us to dance with them.

The blaring speakers set the tone for traditional Cambodian dancing around a table in the middle. The dancing involved lots of hand movements and rocking motions. All very amusing for both us and them. There was a mixture of old and young people dancing, with the older folks looking slightly bemused when traditonal songs were mixed (not very smoothly) with Akon 'I wanna make love'. What is the worldwide obsession with someone who sounds like a chipmonk on repeat?

After a while Han was swarmed with children looking to touch her hair and play with her. There was a fair, impressive as the only easy access here is by boat, so Han went with them on the rides whilst I won a 'throw dart at balloon game'.

It was a great evening and surprisingly boozy one too. The beer kept coming as we seemed like the guests of honour at times. When it came to cycling back the lack of light and small paths made getting home difficult. We had some near misses but got back safely. The party was all to celebrate the completion of a new house and brought the community together. There may be few jobs and little money in Chi Phat but the people know how to have a good time.

Our good time the night before meant we missed the 7am boat back to Adeung Teuk, the only boat of the day. So we chilled in the hammocks, swam in the lake and read our books.

The next day we made sure we were down by the pier in time for the only boat but they told us 'today it leave hour early'. Not much use to us as we had a bus to catch. So, with a little persuasion, they paid for two motorbikes to take us to the mainland. It was a quicker journey but a lot less comfortable. Especially for Han as her and Aurore, a French lady, had to share the same bike with their driver and their bags.

We enjoyed our stay in Chi Phat but the village was playing it's 'eco- tourism' card a little too much. Treks were overpriced 'even if you have the money', like Aurore said, and the new tourism centre took away from the actual experience of staying in a remote settlement. However the people were welcoming and the party made it all worth it.

---

Photos

Boat to Chi Phat
with all the Anchor beer (for the party)

Homestay 2
Lewi took this pic of a demented chicken