Twenty Three in Cambodie: Krong Koh Kong

---

For the days around my twenty third birthday we decided to head further west from Chi Phat to the Koh Kong Conservation Corridor that stetches along the Thai border.

We arrived in the capital of the area, Krong Koh Kong, expecting what Lonely Planet dubbed as 'a seedy border town' but found it to be a rather nice place. We had planned to go to a nearby island for my birthday but decided that it might be a little too deserted for any birthday celebrations. So we planned to stay and enjoy the waterfalls, mangrove forests and beaches nearby.

The town had a scenic riverside/sea setting with a promenade lined with food stalls from where you could see across the long bridge to Thailand. We found Otto's guesthouse where 'you pay the least but sweat the most' which Otto should adopt as a motto. So, spending as little time in the room as possible, we found a doctors where I had my throat looked at. It had been painful since the party in Chi Phat, possibly due to a malaria tablet that I took just before I went to sleep. I think it may have not digested properly and in doing so irritated my throat and stomach. The doctor didn't do a great deal apart from giving me anti-inflamatories.

The next day, the eve of my birthday, we decided to check out of the sweltering Otto's room we had and move to a nice hotel as a treat for my birthday. Luckily there was a hotel that fitted the bill just down the road. Apex Hotel had a swimming pool and rooms with a/c. So after 6 months of fan room travel we opted for a/c and it was brilliant.

We hired a moped for a couple of days and after a swim we headed to Ta Tai Waterfall, about 15km out of town. This was our first experience of a good dry season waterfall where water was actually running. We stood under a big fall and got free massages from the gushing water. The surrounding mountainside was producing unnerving booming sounds like thunder but too frequent. So after cooling by the falls we headed back to the market in town where Han told me to scarper...I wonder why?

That evening as we were walking to find some dinner a table of merry Koh Kong locals summoned us over. They were sat eating cockles and oyster-like things whilst consuming copious amounts of rice wine. In their state they were eager for us to join them, so not adverse to a free drink we did. We joined them in downing shots of strong rice wine as well as tasting some superb cockles which seem to be the Cambodian delicacy. It was all good natured and fun until a very drunk man stumbled along and assumed we spoke Thai. He continued to talk to us despite our protestations that we couldn't understand. So we said goodbye to our hosts and went happily on to get desert at a street stall.

I awoke on my twenty third birthday having had a great sleep in our cool surrounds. It felt nice to be able to get under a duvet. Han burst out of the bathroom with a handful of balloons singing Happy Birthday. She also came with my card which was very special. It was made up of cuttings from our travels including a drawing of my much loved Nymphs, from the Temples of Angkor, with a photograph of her stuck on the head. Inside was an 'Ode to Lewi' which she read to me. We sat in bed, balloons surrounding us, where I opened two presents, one a ripe mango and the other a tin of 'Lucky Boy' condensed milk. Condensed milk so long discarded by those back home is big out here and has been a feature of our Asian travel. They put it with everything from coffee to puddings and now mango's. We sat out on our balcony where we had some of our Sumatran coffee and our sweet mango followed by a dip in the pool.

Today was not only my birthday but also the first day since we arrived in Cambodia that the clouds were grey and it was raining. By the time we had gone for a proper breaky though it had reduced to a light sprinkle so we could go out.

I hopped aboard the birthday bike, balloons abound, and we took to the wet roads in search of the mangrove forest. Koh Kong's mangrove forest is the largest of it's kind in South East Asia with a long boardwalk through a section of it. We walked the impressive tangle of mangroves spotting crabs but no crocodiles unfortunately. Along the way Han gave me another present. An antique zippo lighter with our favourite Bayon temple engraved on it. This was followed by a pack of mentho's sweets. We then crossed a bridge over part of the river and climbed up to a lookout post where we could see the dense forest in all it's glory.

After having lunch at the market we went bought some beers and went back to our hotel where we had a siesta (getting old) before a dip in the pool. I then called mum on skype and congratulated her on having me twenty three years ago. Saskia said she was baking a cake for me and they sang happy birthday. Thank you to everyone for my birthday messages and presents.

We both got dressed up and went for a really good meal overlooking the river. The garlic fried fish was enjoyed by me and a pretty white cat that came along at the end. We then had desert at another restaurant where everyone sang happy birthday and I blew out our table candle.

By the border to Thailand is a big casino and for a laugh we decided to have a look. It turned out to be a little further away than we thought and not quite as interesting as we had hoped. We played and lost at roulette, possibly because we kept putting 10 Baht on number 23, before leaving the surreal atmosphere. Very funny nonetheless. Back in our beautiful room Han gave me a bottle of Khmer whisky which we enjoyed (not all of) together. What an amazing place to be for my birthday. I kept thinking I'm 23 in Cambodia and then doing a mental Google earth style zoom down to where we were in the world.

The next day we decided to stay and chill, writing diary and reading our books. My throat was still not better with pains everytime I swallowed. The medicine I was taking hadn't helped. So after our rest day we re-entered Thailand and went to the nearby town of Trat where we thought the hospitals might be better. I had more checks before being given a whole host of anti's that I had to consume with each meal.

Trat was a very nice town with picturesque back streets and vibrant markets. We stayed in a welcoming guesthouse called Baan Jaidee from where we rented a motorbike the next day. We took it on the fast roads to a quiet beach where we swam and sunbathed. It felt good to be back in Thailand. We both like the people, the food, the language and the cheapness.

---

Photos

Ta Tai waterfalls 7
Self timer 2nd attempt. WE got it!

Mangrove walk
largest in Asia

Ta Tai waterfalls 5
Self timer 1st attempt