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Published: March 14th 2010
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After a great time in Siem Reap, we decided to head off to Battambang, hearing stories about it's sweet fruits and lush rice. “What is this land that flows of milk and honey?” (or fruit and rice) we thought to ourselves. But after struggling to find out what other attractions Battambang held, and finding that we were getting ripped off by the bus company due to limited competition, the feeling for Battambang began to sour. It didn't take long for us to start giving the town a few choice nicknames...”Battambackwater” was my favourite, and I'm sure you can imagine that Phoebe came up with a few relating to the posterior.
Just before we got onto the bus, Phoebe threw up...great. We didn't know if it was gastro or just feeling a bit funny from eating so early (it was a very early bus). Sadly, it turned out to be the former, so we had to manage accordingly, but it's not easy on a moving bus (with no toilet). Luckily for all of us, she slept most of the time which was a real blessing. As soon as we pulled up to the bus station, all I could see were men
Us at the Hill Temple Phnom Banan
Probably the highlight of our time in Battambang holding signs crowding around us (we were still on the bus, but they had already identified the foreigners to harass). I grabbed the only other foreigner on the bus, Milla, a French girl who we had befriended and told her she could share a tuk tuk with us as I'd heard about a potential 'moto mafia' in Battambang. And yes, it's true, there is a moto mafia in Battambang! It didn't take long to work it out but this is what happens - all the drivers have formed a neat little cartel, they fix prices and then then bully hotel owners into giving them money. Whoever gives them the most money will be the hotel they take you to when you arrive in Battambang. If you ask for another hotel they'll say “oh no, that one is far out of town, too far, I don't drive there”, and then back it up with “I take you to nice hotel close by, cheap room, close to market”....which is exactly what they tried on us, scumbags. So predictable though. As a matter of principle we weren't going to go to a hotel that pays moto drivers to harass us, and in doing
Novice Monk with his pet Monkey
This friendly monk was very keen to practice his English so encourages this cartel activity. So after doing the obligatory stop at the mafia hotel, we insisted that he take us around the corner to the one we wanted to go to.
The following day Phoebe's bout of gastro seemed to have passed, so we headed out for a day trip. Organising transport was again a headache due to the moto mafia. Prices were inflated and we even found for the first time drivers wouldn't take us to certain locations, obviously these were already staked out for their friends. Inflated transport organised, we headed out for some hill temples, enjoying a nice scenic ride along the way. Of course, being hill temples, there's a considerable number of steps to climb before you actually see any temple, so off we went. A nice Khmer lady volunteered (seemingly) to take some photos for us and then started walking up with us, at first fanning herself, and then fanning away at us. “Ah-ha”, we realise, another local attaching themselves to you as a money making venture. Before long her three year old son was climbing too and fanning away at us madly. We became really quite uncomfortable with the whole thing, so
"Coconut with your petrol sir?"
Typical petrol station. The petrol is in soft drink bottles. Just make sure you ask for a coconut and not a coke! half way up thanked them politely, passed some money to them and said we'd be happy to continue alone. Phew, another local discarded. The temple itself was quite cool, a very old structure that was well worth the climb, and the views were great. One thing irked me though....these temples are supposed to sacred. You need to be respectful, wear appropriate clothing, and be aware that this is a place of worship for some people. So why oh why would you SPIT! Yep, plenty of Khmer people were up there, admiring the views and hocking a gob at the same time. I think we've learnt plenty of cultural sensitivity/understanding so far, but that's one thing I don't think I'll ever get.
On the way down I saw the same lady that was fanning us. She called out to me and Phoebe and we reluctantly approached. Then as we got closer we saw in the hammock next to her was a teeny tiny little baby! Through a language barrier we worked out she was 41, had 8 children and this one in front of us was 15 days old!! Now there's something you don't see every day, what a legend.
Someone's in a tight spot
Tractors here are quite a different sight She probably returned to stair climbing the day after she gave birth.
The rest of our time was fairly unremarkable (apart from a few good meals), as was the bus ride home which was yet another unpleasant Asian bus experience. We were all so pleased to be back at our 'home away from home' at Sunday Guesthouse in Phnom Penh, as all that stair walking seems to have aggravated my hip joint which has meant at least two days of solid bed rest for me. Phoebe's tummy is unpredictable, but seems to be a minor bit of gastro still hanging around her system, so a rest was well needed.
The little diversion or rest and recuperation has set back our arrival date in Vietnam, but hopefully we'll be heading off soon!
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janet
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thanks
Thanks for the continual supply of information which always makes me feel you're not so far away. I've just been out for a mother's day lunch (I think we have it May in OZ don't we?) - slow english service but good when it came followed by a stroll by the river dee. Of to edinburgh in the morning to see about this job in Kelso - will keep you advised. love Mum xxx