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Published: September 5th 2018
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So, we are sitting at the crossroads New Year’s Eve 1996, right to the Bwindi National Forest, left we go back to Kitale our Peace Corp home at the time. But it was in the days before ATMs and we only had enough cash for one of us to see the gorillas… So, back to Kitale we went, stating we would definitely be back.
And twenty one years later we did. We landed in Kigali Rwanda and spent a quick day in the city. It is our first time in Rwanda and we are impressed. The country appears to have put aside its prior terrible history and leapt forward. They have somehow managed to outlaw all plastic bags and the environment is immaculate. Not one piece of garbage anywhere to be found. To help with the appearances, the last Saturday morning of each month is Umu Ganda, from 8 – 11 it is public cleaning day. As described in our guide book “There is a countrywide ban on road traffic and the entire country embarks on communal work for the public good – street cleaning, tree planting, and road repair. It is impressive!! And even more
so when we later cross the border into Uganda and see the usual amount of litter on the roads.
We spent the weekend at Lake Kivu, a beautiful lake that separates Rwanda from The Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC). The drive north and then west of the country is beautiful in the green checkerboard terraced hills with bananas, Irish potatoes (as they call them), and lots of unidentified vegetables. We stay at Inez lodge which sits on a hill overlooking the lake. We love the tented camp we stay in and enjoy all the evening and morning birds.
Sunday we drive south and then west making a loop of the northern part of the country. This part of the drive is on a road recently paved by a Chinese company. It is a beautiful drive and we see lots of tea plantations.
Monday morning we are met at our guest house by Krish who will be our driver for the next 4 days for our gorilla safari. It is a 4 hour drive with an easy border crossing into Uganda. Our room at Bwindi
Jungle Lodge sits on a hill overlooking Lake Mulehe.
When we booked this portion of our trip, with Gorilla Africa Trek, we decided we wanted to see both parks in Uganda with Mountain Gorillas. One trek at Bwindi one trek at Mgahinga NP. But, about 10 days before we left, Nelson informed us they were not able to get the Mgahinga NP, instead we would have two treks in Bwindi. So we were surprised when Tues morning Krish drives us to Mgahinga NP and we are two of eight people to see the only habituated gorilla family.
We had read about the treks and Mgahinga is generally the harder park to find the gorillas. They have trackers out in the early morning to locate their location. This is a family of 9 gorillas with 4 silverbacks, the patriarch, and 3 younger males, three females and two young ones. The trek can take anywhere from 45 minutes to 4 hours to reach them, and start at 7500 ft, so it can be a long slog! Both of us are quite relieved when the guide tells us they are about 45 minutes
away.
Right before we enter the area where they are, the guide tells us they are near, although you can kinda smell them before you actually see them. We round the bend and it truly is incredible to see the back of our first silverback gorilla. He is massive, weighing about 1000 lbs, just lying in the short grass enjoying the sun shine. We are to keep @ 20 ft away, but as they have warned us, the gorillas do not usually abide by this rule. As I am sitting my 20 ft away, Rukanda (yes they are named), decides he is tired of his nap and decides to get up. There is plenty of room for him to climb up the hill, but instead heads straight towards me. As he approaches, I hear the tracker say ‘don’t move’. Since I am sitting on my feet, getting up would not be quick nor easy. As he continues, until he almost grazes me, I try to hide behind my camera. He quietly walks by, and I breathe a huge sigh of relief. Ed quite proudly tells me, don’t worry, I got a picture of it!!
We are allowed one hour as we follow them up the mountain and thru the brush as they continue to eat and play, unaffected by our presence. It is just an amazing hour!!
So, I will post this if the internet is working. And tomorrow we leave at 6am for our gorilla trek in Bwindi.
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Pat
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Last silverback shot
Ithink he’s sending message! A display perhaps?