Just as Africa was getting predictable. Just as Africa was become easy. Just as Africa was getting, dare I say it, dull. I found myself in Western Tanzania, and everything seemed to change. Rwanda was tarmaced, efficient, and regulated. Cafe's with air-con and leather seats charged European prices for cups of coffee, while the clientele read the latest daily. Journeys, though beautiful, passed without incident, and towns visited almost passed without interest. It was nice for a few days, but that's not really why I came to Africa. Burundi was better, more manic, more frantic, somehow more 'alive', but still somewhat predictable. And then I found myself in Western Tanzania and it all seemed to change. Western Tanzania, an endless land, where train journeys last for 24 hours, and boat trips even longer. Where six hour
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