The Wild Coast

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So . . . . we left Swaziland and drove south through kwazulu Natal (that's Zululand) straight through to Durban. Now we didn't see much of Durban so we can't say exactly what it was like but we didn't like the atmosphere. A big 'gt dirty city , we stayed in a nice hostel called the Hippo Hide in the nice subburbs. Having driven through the centre on route we didn't like the look of it and stayed away. Good storm came one night but that's about it. Seen enough big cities for the time being.

So, having continued south we reached a part of the country known as the wild coast. This was really scenic with the countryside littered with hundreds of Roundhouses, these are tiny huts, often windowless, that house the African Rural Communities.

We arrived at a place called Umtata where we were picked up by minibus to drive us down some potholed windy road for 90 minutes to the tiny coastal settlement of Coffee Bay.

Coffee Bay is a really good place to visit. There is very little there but that's a good thing. Its perched right next to two really nice beaches, one of them very good for surfing.

There are two hostels here, a small shop, a rural farming community and that's it!. Stayed in a hostel called the coffee shack which was one of the best hostels we have ever stayed at.

Great atmosphere from a different mix of people and entertaining staff. Excellent food cooked every night, on Sundays this was a free Potjai (like a South African Stew). Most nights local villages would turn up and either sing or dance to raise a few rand for their communities. After this the action centred on the bar and the free pool table until the small hours. Not to be left out of the action we had a few late nights and a few sore heads.

One evening we ventured out to the local Shebeen for supplies. A Sheebeen is a local township pub. Think that the local back home has a few characters? you should try one of these places . . . . we got there at 5 pm and everybody was allready slaughtered. There are barely any seats just like a room with a wire mesh seperating the bar staff from the lairy punters. It as actually a bit sad but people were pretty friendly to us. This was mainly because they have a sideline in trying to sell backpackers magic mushrooms, we declined.

One kind public spirited chap offered to chase anybody away if the gave us any trouble on condition . . . . . . . . that we bought him a drink. Now considering that he was completely smashed and on crutches we didn't think he would be doing much chasing and also declined his offer. We didn't hang around for too long afterwards.

Every day the hostel organised some kind of activity. One of which was a 9 k m coastal hike to a place called the Hole in the Wall (see photo). Amazing walk with beautiful scenery, struggled a bit on the hills, very unhealthy.

Had a surf lession too, this time it was free, organised by the hostel as the owner is an ex surf champion. Have to report it is still rock hard but managed to stand up a few times, briefly. Water here is really clear but the waves are some of the biggest we have seen, very hard work. Claire watched from the sidelines.

After four excellent days we headed back to Umtata to catch the Baz Bus South.

Coffee Bay is an excellent place to visit, don't forget to pack a spare liver.

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Photos

Roundhouse
Little huts are everywhere. . .

Hole in the Wall
Does what it says on the tin . .

Waves
Big waves!

Comments

[Dad]

looks and sounds great. looking forward to coming home? dad

[John and Claire]

No
No

[John and Claire]

Ok
Ok, maybe a little bit.