Blogs from Morocco, Africa - page 222

Well it's the last day before we disappear into the deserts of Western Sahara so everyone is busy making the most of internet and showers as there won't be any for over a week now. The things you end up considering as luxuries! You should have seen our campsite the other day, 26 people's laundry strung up to dry is quite a sight. And typically we had the first rain in weeks the afternoon we hung it all out! I've had a fantastic few days, some of the best yet. We spent three days in Marrakech, exploring the souks (markets) and eating so much food (no surprise there!). There are so many fabulous things to buy here (if only I had the money and space): gorgeous, brightly coloured, soft leather slippers; intricately inlaid wooden boxes; beautiful ... read more

As a rule of thumb, it’s worth noting that departure times for Moroccan buses should be appended with an -ish. I almost miss the bus to Fes when I take a bathroom break at the station, only to hear the driver gunning the engine, a good eight minutes before we’re supposed to leave. There’s plenty of commotion as me and 18 kilos worth of backpack go bobbing across the parking lot. The driver looks at the time, laughs softly and shrugs. “My friend, what can you do?” his face suggests. There are a few sympathetic nods from the women in the front seats. I take a spot toward the middle of the bus - far enough from the back to avoid the exhaust fumes that leave a vicious plume of smoke behind us. It’s a ... read more

By my second day in Morocco I’m completely drained. I’ve been hustled, harassed, cursed at in Arabic on three separate occasions, and shown enough Berber rugs to carpet the Sahara. It’s hardly encouraging to hear everyone describe Chefchaouen - a mellow mountain town with a cool blue medina - as very tranquilo. Mention the word Fes and eyebrows begin to raise. That’s where Morocco really begins, where the hard sell can break glass and the guy shaking your hand will probably make off with your underwear. For all the wearisome persistence, there’s a good-natured air to how these guys hustle. Everyone is all smiles, happy to hear I’m from New York and having such a pleasant time in their town. Though I suspect most are looking to get something out of me - a suspicion ... read more

This weekend I finally visited a volunteer whose town I have been wanting to see for over a year now, before I even knew where I would be posted for my two years of service. I have been (relatively) busy and the opportunity hadn’t really presented itself before, but the real reason I didn’t go was that I was scared. I had heard so much about his site, a small town up in the High Atlas, bursting with Berber (Amazight) pride and within easy walking distance of a beautiful reservoir. I was scared I would fall in love with his site and be depressed going back to my city in the dusty plains, far from mountains, water, trees and everything else I miss. Having now seen Ouaouizaght, it’s babbling brooks tumbling through narrow valleys in the ... read more

hola de nuevo! estos dias he estado por la zona de tafraoute en pleno anti-atlas, una maravilla, las fotos hablan por si solas... desde la escuela de tizgui no he vuelto a tener problemas con las pistas, se frien huevos en las piedras...asi que han sido dias de lo mas normal, con hotelillos al final del camino y buena comida. hoy escribo desde akka, o kakka para quienes ya lo conocen. esa al sur del antiatlas, en una zona de transicion hacia el desierto. eso se siente en la gente _son negros como tizones_ y en el paisaje _formaciones rocosas saliendo de la arena_. en el aire se huele el trapicheo de gasolina del sahara _mas barata que al norte_ y no hay tantas facilidades como en las zonas mas visitadas. con todo es una zona ... read more