Last day in Kenya

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February 8 2010:
On the way between Mombasa and Nairobi, we passed an area where baobab trees grow. They're primal; their bark made me think of an elephant's skin...and they are enormous. Their branches look like roots, as if the tree must have grown upside down.

We weren't in Nairobi long before we traveled through Machakos to Masii (pronounced Ma-see) where Paul's shamba is located (actually we visited three of them; one with the house where we stayed). One day we traveled to one higher up the mountains and walked in to it. Mazee led us up and through fields and then we skirted around to the shamba of Paul's uncle. The buildings were mud over whattle; simple and beautiful. The setting was extraordinary, the farmland lush and productive. Very nice people! We stayed and chatted quite a bit. Believe it or not, I was able to pick up a little Swahili (English is the colonizer's language and most people speak it, but prefer the African tongue).

A highlight for me was a visit to the Karen Blixen museum where I had a very good guide named Greg. He shared a lot of information and because I'd read Out of Africa and seen the film, I was able to ask questions that led to great discussions. The community (or suburb) of Karen is named for her and I'm told that it is one of the wealthy areas...it was one of the few places I went that I wasn't the only white person. You can glimpse the Ngong Hills from the verandah and after the museum, we drove into the hills where Paul has a shamba. The view from it is amazing. (This is where we met the three little boys.) That was Saturday. On Sunday we returned to the hills to seek out Denys Hatton's memorial site, which we found with the directions and help of Kikuyu along the way. The road out of Kiserian wasn't good, and the road off of it up the side of the hill would have been impassable had we not had a four-wheel drive. (And once more the roads simple drop off one side while the other rises high above!)

Today we went downtown and I bought some internet time in order to write one last message from Africa. Tomorrow morning I fly home. I'll recoup the 8 hours I lost coming east so I'll arrive at Pearson at 8:35 p.m. It'll likely take awhile before I clear customs. A month has given me time to see the wildlife, visit villages and farm, and to meet many, many people (today I met the Minister of Culture who has promised to give me CDs of traditional Kenyan music -- he'll send them with Paul when he next comes to Canada on business). Paul and Esther have been gracious hosts, but I'm ready to return and am looking forward to seeing each one of you.

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Photos

Baobab & Me
These enormous, primitive trees can reach 1000 years old; this monster must be one of the oldest.

Paul's shamba near Masii
We stopped between Machakos and Masii to pick ripe mango from this tree growing among corn and beans (which we later ate). Delicious. Mango in Canada will never satisfy me again!

Mrs (or Mama) Katunge
Wife of Paul's uncle on his mother's side at her shamba (which is Swahili for farm).

Mutua Wakiluu and Mrs. Katunge
This is the aunt and uncle, sitting under an avacodo tree and in front of their corn filed.

Mzee led the way
We were visiting another shamba of Paul's and met this man who led the way through fields along a partial path. We came through to the uncle's shamba. He carried a hoe and a very large knife (not quite a machete!).

Karen Blixen house/museum
I spent an afternoon at the house where Karen Blixen lived and where Out of Africa was filmed. (No photos allowd inside.)

William Kyalo
This little boy met us (with two others) when we visited Paul's Ngong Hills shamba.

Three boys in the Ngong Hills
Greg Mayo, William Kyalo, and Antony Ngogama,

Denys Hatton grave
If you remember Out of Africa, you'll know that Karen Blixen's boyfriend was killed in a plane crash.

Comments

[Pat Calder]

Hi Kathryn, You look marvellous. Thanks for the pix. They really bring the story alive visually. Your voice sounds as if you have had very warm friendships/acquaintanceships with everyone, but that could be your positive nature and interest in all things. You've made me hungry to see Africa! Can't wait to visit with you. Unfortunately, I'll be leaving on Sunday so we'll have to wait til after I come home Mar.24. I'm inspired by your trip and getting excited about mine. Safe travels until we meet again. Pat

[Chris]

Nice finale
Kathryn, thanks for the interesting chapter. You look quite comfortable in the African setting! All's well with us, working on 'projects' with friends visiting from home. Hope you have a good trip back and keep blogging.