the obruni wife

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Today is a very quiet, warm, sleepy Sunday. I'm borrowing Rachel's computer, lying on Sammy's bed, and watching "Sunshine" with Eric and Rachel. Rachel and I made veggie burgers with guacamole for lunch using fresh veggies from the night market. It was amazing. Now I'm very full and very sleepy once again.

I left off last time just in time to grab my things and go to class. But then the lecturer was a no-show, so I spent the afternoon making redred for the first time. It came out pretty well and was fairly inexpensive for the quantity it made. I spent the evening eating and hanging out with friends (Daniel, Kristin, Eric, Sammy, Rachel, etc.).

Wednesday was early morning Twi. Only half of us showed up so we went over our tests and talked. Then it was off to Joshua's, followed by class. African Traditional Ethics is very boring but interesting. I went to Daniel's for the afternoon, made myself dinner at ISH, and went to listen to reggae music with Daniel at the Sutherland Studio on campus.

Thursday was class, lunch, class, dinner, and Lysistrata. Lysistrata is a Greek play where the women of two opposing armies band together and deny their husbands sex until they stop the war. It was really funny and well done: the physical comedy was great, along with the costumes, props, vocal energy, etc. They performed in the Ampitheater which is a big outdoor stage with stone benches in a semicircle rising up away from the stage. It was very Greek. I had a wonderful time. After finding Witness for the Prosecution a bit depressing the week before, it was amazing to have a really energetic, engaging theater experience under the dark open sky. I really got a kick out of the whole thing.

Friday I eventually rolled out of bed and made my way to Joshua's only to find that the group meeting was canceled. I spent about an hour working with Joshua and had some oranges (really good) while talking with Daniel (this Daniel is different from student Daniel). Really, he did most of the talking since he got going about god. I did learn a bit about tongues, so that was cool. I can hear people speaking in tongues sometimes when I'm going to bed (sound echoes and there is a church near my dorm I think). Apparently tongues is a way of praying in God's language.

I was so tired after Joshua's that I just came back to campus, had some lunch, went online (got kicked off when the power went out), and took a nap. At 6pm Daniel and I went to see Whale Rider in the African Studies building on campus. There's a gender studies/equality group that puts on a monthly movie with a talkback afterwards. It was fun; I like that movie a lot, actually.

So the big news of the week would be as follows:
-I got my ballot! Monday morning I'm taking a trotro to Circle so I can mail it from the main post office (with the hope of ensuring a speedy delivery to the states). I get a kick out of showing it to people here and pointing out the bubble for Obama.
-Student Daniel is most definitely my boyfriend. (Actually, I should just start calling him Biano- his last name and the name he goes by- then I won't have to differentiate between Joshua's Daniel and boyfriend Daniel.)


Yesterday was a long but fun day. Daniel took me around some Accra markets. We walked through the Cultural Center (I went once before, the first week we were here) where they sell a lot of nice (and touristy) things like clothes, woodcarvings, etc. It was more fun with him because they look at me, look at him, and then don't give me much of a hard time.

We walked to a local market after that where people sell Western clothing like jeans. There were lots of stalls cramped together and big piles of clothes. On the way out we passed a whole line of young guys each holding up a pair of jeans backed by a big pile of jeans each. They started literally grabbing my hand or arm as I passed, so Daniel ended up walking behind me holding both of my hands; and still they kept grabbing for me. One guy got Daniel's arm by mistake, that's how crazy they were. It was pretty funny.

We took a trotro from Accra (Tema station) to Madina market near Legon and had lunch at a cute little place. We just shared a huge plate of plain rice, beans, and salad. Then we walked through Madina market and bought some veggies and spices.

We didn't see anything too exciting. As Estelle has pointed out to me, I go to a lot of markets here. But it was actually a pretty different experience walking around with a Ghanaian, especially since we were clearly a couple. People did things like ask Daniel if he was married to an obruni or one guy called him some name that means an African who travels outside Africa and then comes back (he's never left Ghana, I'm the one whose traveled). All in Twi, of course, so I make Daniel translate.

So I'm having a good time. We only get to date for two months since I'm leaving soon, but that makes it very low-pressure. Daniel is very sweet and teaches me his songs as we walk along and explains what different things are/ what people are saying in Twi. He's also 6'1" which is fun. A couple of people have said things (in Twi, of course, but he translates) about our heights (we're a very tall couple).

I spent last night out on Rachel's balcony with her roommate and some USAC folks. They bought wine and cheese and I contributed some chocolate. The power went out yesterday and didn't come on until about 10pm so we were out on the balcony eating and talking by candlelight. It was wonderful.

Today is a quiet day with USAC folks. I think Rachel and I (plus Eric if he's feeling well enough and wants to go- apparently he has malaria) are going to meet Holly in Osu in Accra later in the day. There's a store called Global Mamas that's all fair trade that they've visited before and really like. And then there's talk of a sports bar called Champs for Mexican food and a movie or else trying an Indian restaurant we found in the guidebook.

I want to plan a trip to the Volta region to visit the Akosombo dam (the dam that created the Volta lake from the Volta river and provides power for the country). The guidebook also lists a bead factory not too far away that sounds really cool; it's family-run and produces new beads in addition to restoring old ones. If we left Friday morning and came back Monday afternoon, it could be a really great long weekend. I need to travel before my time runs out.

Alright, I think this is plenty for now. Is everyone satisfied with the gossip? I hope so.

Keep me updated about home. I miss you guys. Love you!
~Anna

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