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Africa » Egypt » Upper Egypt » Luxor November 27th 2005

I am totally exhaused today... totally tombed and templed out... tired of the constant harassment for baksheesh for "services" we didn't want and didn't ask for. Shane and I are staying at the East Bank of the Nile and today we made the trip to the West Bank to see the Necopolis. Apparently, Luxor area has been inhabited for at least 6000 years. It is the site of ancient Thebes, which was the capital of Egypt under the reign of Montuhotep II (2055-2004 BC). The Necropolis of ancient Thebes consists of spectacular tombs and temples. The pharaohs from the New Kingdom period saw how the pyramids failed to protect the tombs and mummies of the Old Kingdom pharaohs from theft. So they decided to conceal their tombs in the arid Theban hills. In addition, they built ... read more
Tomb
King Tut's Tomb
Valley of the Kings

Africa » Egypt November 27th 2005

This entry wraps up my time in the Sinai, with the exception of the ride back to Cairo, which probably deserves its own special entry. But I'm getting ahead of myself.... Sunrise in the Sinai The Dutch guy and I awoke at 3am to watch the sunrise from a nearby mountain (actually, he awoke; I hadn't slept a wink the entire night). We walked through the silent village with planets and stars shining brightly overhead, and climbed one of Mt. Sinai's subpeaks to avoid the hordes of tourists. As expected, we had the peak to ourselves, with the exception of a deserted Coptic Christian chapel standing silent guard at the top. In the valley I could see Bedouin campfires burning, and the moonlight cast an ethereal glow over everything. Shooting stars streaked across the sky. It ... read more

Africa » Egypt » Upper Egypt » Luxor November 26th 2005

Shane and I are now in Luxor. After watching a spectacular sunrise in the White Desert and a fine Egyptian breakfast, we headed to Farafra Oasis (another 40 km from the White Desert). We said our goodbyes to Mohammed and Ahmed (and tipped them very, very well to be sure!) before negotiating a minibus ride to Dakhla Oasis (a little over 300 km from Farafra, where we met a couple from Belgium). Luckily, our driver drove like a bat out of hell and we got to Dakhla in about three and half hours. There we left the couple from Belgium as well as Sandy and Ron. I had had enough of the sand, the flies, and the run down little towns - I wanted back to civilization (I am a city girl, after all!). Shane and ... read more
Hotel Nefertiti
Luxor Temple
Luxor Temple

Africa » Egypt November 25th 2005

St. Katherine's Monastery The morning dawned crystal clear, and it was a nice change of pace to inhale clean, fresh air in contrast to Cairo's noxious fumes. It was also blissfully quiet. Really, the village was everything that Cairo isn't -- calm, peaceful, and rejuvenating. The village is only about 2km away from St. Katherine's monastery, so the Dutch guy and I hiked over. St. Katherine lived in Alexandria, converting people to Christianity until she was martyred in a very brutal way (tortured and pulled apart on a spiked wheel, hence the term "Catherine Wheels"). Her supposed remains are kept in the monastery; I say "supposed" because no one is really sure if they are the real thing. The monastery also contains the descendant of the Burning Bush, i.e., the bush that caught flame and spoke ... read more

Africa » Egypt November 25th 2005

We set out for our excursion at around 11ish (more than an hour late than the original set time, but what else is new in Egypt?). First, we drove through the Black Desert. The Black Desert was formed over the millenia as the wind eroded the moutains and blew fine black powder over the ground. We stopped at Gebel ("Mountain") as-Zygag which is known for the red, yellow, and orange streaks in its limestone base. We climbed the path to the top in the sweltering heat, but the view was worth it! Next stop was Crystal Moutain which is actually a large rock made entirely of quartz crystal. Good thing we had a guide with us (Ahmed) or else I would have missed it entirely. Upon closer inspection, it is quite spectacular - the sun glinting ... read more
Western Desert
Crystal Mountain
Agabat

Africa » Egypt November 23rd 2005

(Note: I'm currently in Cairo and classes have started, but I have some major catching up to do on this travelogue. Hopefully over the next few days I'll be able to get up to speed). Elevation On Wednesday, November 23 I left Cairo for the Sinai. There were a few moments when I was unsure if I would ever actually get out of Cairo, though. Leaving my hotel, three of us crammed into an elevator, went to the ground floor... and the door wouldn't open. Apparently there was too much weight (i.e., us), so the carriage wasn't flush with the door and wouldn't open. The three of us looked at each other for a bit, banged on the door, tried to force the door open -- no dice. Then we went up a floor and back ... read more

Africa » Egypt November 23rd 2005

Today we took the "road" from Siwa to Bahariya. First, we were supposed to leave at 7:30 am, but this being Egypt, we left at 9:00 am. The distance from Siwa to Bahariya is only 420 km, but it takes 7-10 hours to travel. There are no sources of water or fuel on the way so you have to bring everything with you. The "road" is badly degraded asphalt, often with little more than rough gravel covered by sand. Hence, it is hardly used and a very expensive trip as it is very hard on the vehicle. They are building a new road alongside the old road, but it is only intermittently finished. There are 6 checkpoints enroute to make sure that any vehicles that break down along the way are not missed. The poor soldiers ... read more
On the Road
On the Road
Bahariya

Africa » Egypt » Lower Egypt » Cairo November 22nd 2005

Cairo -- also known as Umm ad-Dunya, "Mother of the World." There is the idealized Cairo of my mind -- pyramids and palm trees, and then there is the Cairo around me -- incessantly honking cars, dirty air, beautiful mosques, and too many other impressions to list. It's like when I went to Tokyo and was overwhelmed, only this time it's magnified by a factor of 10. I have made it safely here to Cairo; all of my flights went off without a hitch. Also needless to say, I am jet-lagged out of my mind. My doctor gave me sleeping pills, but I didn't use them on the plane. I did take one last night when I finally got here and to my hotel, but I only slept for four hours or so. In sha' Allah ... read more

Africa » Egypt November 21st 2005

After a blood clot forming nine hour bus ride with West Delta Bus Co (27 LE each), Shane and I arrived in Siwa Oasis. It is fantastically beautiful and charming here. I can see why some people come here to visit for a couple of days, but end up staying for months! It is the furthest oasis from Cairo (550 km) and is famous through the country for its dates and olives. Siwa has a long, ancient past but little is known of its earliest inhabitants. The oasis has been isolated from the rest of Egypt until an asphalt road connected it to Marsa Matruh in the 1980's. As a result, Siwans still speak their own distinct Berber dialect and have a local culture separate from that of the rest of Egypt. It is so peaceful ... read more
Kenouz Restaurant
Life in Siwa
On The Mountain of the Dead

Africa » Egypt » Lower Egypt » Cairo November 20th 2005

Ooops we did it again,,,, Yip, we missed the bloody ferry to Sharm El Shreik on the Sinai Peninsula. This was due to the fact that we had enough booze in our systems to take out a small elephant. We went to this awesome beach club, whose name evades me but we danced the night away until 5am when the sun was up and the club was closing. It was a bit disappointing but there is always next time. We spent the next day either sitting or laying down wondering why nothing in our surroundings would keep still. The next day we went scuba diving by these two incredible coral reefs in the Red Sea. I have never seen anything quite like it in all my life. The marine life was superb. The colours of the ... read more
boy
Eric
cats




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