Day two in Siwa, and I join Mike and two others (Neil, yet another person doing Cairo to Cape Town, and Selina, a German living in Dublin) for an overnight tour into the Western Desert - which will include sandboarding, visits to hot and cold springs, and then sunset and a night under the stars. I get lucky and ride shotgun in the Land Cruiser, and we bounce out of the town, down a dusty track, past swaying palm trees, towards the Great Sand Sea. I thought I'd lost my heart to Siwa the night before, but it was during that first trip into the desert that I became truly besotted - with travelling, with Siwa, and most importantly, with the desert. There really is nothing like it. As we sped through the dunes, up and
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