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Africa » Egypt » Western Desert » Siwa Oasis March 29th 2012

The Western Desert is vast, stretching from the Nile and the Mediterranean to the Sudanese and Libyan borders. The Great undulating Sand Sea contains some of the largest dunes on earth. The strange rock formations of the White Desert litter the sandscape like meringues gone mad; and the charred dark peaks of the Black Desert exude an other-worldly feel. It's an isolated, desolate, sometimes eerie landscape. Out on a limb, away from the desert circuit road, lies Siwa, a tiny, tranquil, still largely traditional oasis, surrounded by ruins, springs and date palms. But Siwa is changing. Mahdi Hweiti has lived in Siwa all of his life. 'For every person it's different. I cannot be away from my village for more than a week'. When Mahdi was a boy there was no road at all - not ... read more
Temple Of The Oracle.
Shali Fort.
Old Town Of Shali.

Africa » Egypt » Western Desert » Bawiti February 28th 2012

I travel not to go anywhere, but to go. I travel for travel sake. The great affair is to move. (Robert Louis Stevenson.) After four nights in Luxor the place is becoming a little too familiar. For most people this would be good but I am getting itchy feet. The path we have chosen may not have been the right decision but procrastination does not sleep well with travel. Destination; The Libyan Desert. Now don’t get to excited it isn’t in Libya but also in Egypt. Driving west from Luxor passing banana plantations, fields of wheat and lucerne, sugarcane, potatoes and onions. Children walking to school and the general buzz of life. It soon comes to a halt where the reach of the Nile ends. It is literally a line drawn in ... read more
boy with camel
apart of the family
the moon?

Africa » Egypt » Western Desert » Siwa Oasis January 31st 2012

I spent the morning debating whether to go back to Cairo that night and once I deceided I would, I packed my bag and checked out of the Palm Trees Hotel. I got some lunch and then went back for the desert safari. It turned out there was 9 of us doing the desert safari, but I was the only one not camping out in the desert. At first there was just one jeep, whihc looked in reasonable condition. This battered old Toyota then pulled in and was to be our second jeep. It didn't look like it would make it to the desert, never mind drive through it. Of course, this was the jeep I ended up in. As great as Wadi Rum in Jordan was, this was proper desert. Sand dune mountains roling on ... read more
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Africa » Egypt » Western Desert » Siwa Oasis January 29th 2012

After a pretty uncomfortable 7.5 hour journey, where some guy insisted on leaving the window open all the way meaning no sleep was had, we arrived in Siwa at about 5.30 a.m. There were two Chinese and a Japanese also on the bus and I managed to share a taxi to the hotel with them. When I say taxi, I mean a trailer with 2 benches attached to the back of a moped. After the night before I slept on until after 12. I was woken up to the sound of gun fire and the noise of a crowd. I had been lead to believe that this was a small, sleepy town but when I got up and wandered around town there was a stage set up in the main square, which was packed. There was ... read more
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Africa » Egypt » Western Desert January 11th 2011

Day 93 cont… – The Western Desert (Black Desert) It was only 3 – 3 ½ hour drive until sundown, we were now in the Black Desert (part of the Western Desert). We continued on for a little bit longer until Nick spotted the turnoff that leads to a bush camp he’s used before. We found a flat spot to park the truck and then set up camp. Nick recommended sleeping under the stars (‘cos how often do you get the chance), most went for it but there were a few couples that set up tents. It was beginning to get cold, so once the fire was started we all spent a good 2 hours around it while dinner was cooked and then everything packed away. There is a rotation system for cooking and also cleaning ... read more
CIMG4793
Sunrise in the Black Desert
Our Truck

Africa » Egypt » Western Desert » Baharia December 31st 2010

(December 24th) Alex, Stacy, Tom(another guy staying at the Hostel) and I were up bright and early to catch the morning bus to the Baharia Oasis. The bus ride was not too bad it was just a bit hot. We arrived in Baharia mid-day, I forgot that our seats were up on a step and ended up falling out of it and almost all the way out the bus but someone got up and grabbed me! I got a lovely blue and purple bruise from it on my left thigh. I thanked the guy who grabbed my arm and assured everyone that I was ok because everyone that saw looked concerned! I laughed at myself as I successfully made it off the rest of the bus safely and grabbed my backpack. We were picked up ... read more
Me at Old White Desert
Old White Desert
Sand Angel

Africa » Egypt » Western Desert » Siwa Oasis December 29th 2010

GAP Adventures offers both one week and two week tours of Egypt. The former seemed a bit short to me, and the latter seemed a bit long. In hindsight, I still feel the same way. The second week of our tour definitely did not have the consistent “wow” factor of the first. Most of it was just OK (Alexandria, for example), and we had to spend a lot of time on the road. There’s no way around it, though. If you want to see the White Desert (and believe me, you do), you have to spend some time out there. As much as I’d like to have the verbal dexterity to describe the experience of sunset and sunrise in the White Desert or, even more, the experience of waking up there in the middle of the ... read more

Africa » Egypt » Western Desert November 7th 2010

Siwa is a truly magical place, and I spent the next three days cycling the dusty palm fringed tracks, watching the sun set over ancient ruins, beating the locals at backgammon, and enjoying the laid back charms of the place. It reminded me of Darjeeling - a few tourists dotted about town, friendly locals, peaceful after the bedlam of Cairo/Kolkata, and blues skies and clean air. But all good things come to an end, and with a heavy (but expectant) heart, it was time to leave the dusty little oasis, and head on a overnight bus to Cairo, and from there to Bahariya - another desert oasis, on the edge of the White Desert which I've been wanting to visit since first hearing about it on this site ten months ago. I jumped aboard the overnight ... read more

Africa » Egypt » Western Desert » Siwa Oasis November 7th 2010

When I was looking into travelling in Egypt, one place stood out above everything else - I'd go and see the Pyramids, the Cairo Musuem, Luxor, etc, almost whether I wanted to or not, but I'd read a blog on the White Desert almost 10 months ago, and for me, that was the main attraction in the country. The desert just seems so bewitching, alien, and exotic. In Siwa, it was all that and more. And I hoped for the same with the White Desert, on the edge of the Sahara. I sorted out a tour easily in Bahariya (the touts don't let you relax for long), and set off just before midday for another overnight tour. The tour was a mad dash through as many sights as the driver could fit into one day - ... read more
El Akabat mountain
One perfect sunrise?
One perfect sunrise

Africa » Egypt » Western Desert » Siwa Oasis November 6th 2010

Day two in Siwa, and I join Mike and two others (Neil, yet another person doing Cairo to Cape Town, and Selina, a German living in Dublin) for an overnight tour into the Western Desert - which will include sandboarding, visits to hot and cold springs, and then sunset and a night under the stars. I get lucky and ride shotgun in the Land Cruiser, and we bounce out of the town, down a dusty track, past swaying palm trees, towards the Great Sand Sea. I thought I'd lost my heart to Siwa the night before, but it was during that first trip into the desert that I became truly besotted - with travelling, with Siwa, and most importantly, with the desert. There really is nothing like it. As we sped through the dunes, up and ... read more
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