Entering Peru was a bit of a shock after the varied and generally colourful landscapes of Colombia and Ecuador. As soon as we crossed the mountainous border into the north, we dropped down to the coastal desert, which stretches all the way down the country to the West of the Andes. Frankly, it's a bleak, sunblasted and windblown place, the monotony of the endless sand landscapes being livened up only by the frequent piles of landfill at the side of the Pan American Highway, and the occasional semi-ruined shack or building. The towns in this region, which are well off the
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