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South America » Peru » Puno » Lake Titicaca » Uros Island August 17th 2022

After breakfast, and full of anticipation, we boarded the boat that would take us to the Uros Islands on Lake Titicaca. An excursion that did not disappoint. Although the inhabitants of these islands still can be said to live in fairly primitive conditions, they have become savvy enough to have a very good organization of how to distribute the tourists around their community. The individual islands' construction and maintenance are the concern and responsibility of all who live on that island, so I can see how they have used the same principles to divide what must be a big source of income amongst the entire community. Upon officially entering the Uros District, our boat captain was instructed about which island we could visit. It turned out to be the "Beautiful Rainbow" Island, home to four families. ... read more
Lake Titicaca
Uros Islands
Uros Islands

South America » Peru » Puno » Puno August 16th 2022

Another fairly early morning saw us on our way to Puno on the shores of Lake Titicaca, the largest lake in South America. It was an anticipated destination to experience another timeless Peruvian tradition, the Uros Islands and the people who have lived on them for centuries. Our trip required a brief stop again on Yanque, to pick up the boxed lunches that Juanita's restaurant, The Alpaca Chef, had prepared for our journey. In order to get to Puno we had to backtrack a portion of the way, and cross again the same high altitude passes we had braved before and access the Altiplano, or Andean Plateau, the most extensive high plateau on Earth outside Tibet. Its height averages about 12,300 feet and it's dominated by massive active volcanoes of the Central Volcanic Zone to the ... read more
Colca Canyon
Mirador de los Andes
Mirador de los Andes

South America » Peru » Arequipa » Chivay August 15th 2022

Our second day in the Colca Canyon region was dedicated to exploring the valley and some of the towns founded in colonial Spanish times. Our first mission was to arrive at the Cruz del Condor Mirador early enough to catch the condors gliding with the help of thermal winds, so we set out early in the morning as the viewing site was some distance from the lodge. On the way, we did take some time to stop at the nearby village of Yanque, to watch some of the children dancing in the square, a morning tradition. Along the way, we passed other settlements that dot the valley. I was constantly surprised by the small size of a lot of the houses we passed. They seemed more like Hobbit holes than real houses. Also amazing was the ... read more
Yanque
Yanque
Yanque

South America » Peru » Arequipa » Colca Canyon August 14th 2022

On Sunday morning I was sad to leave Arequipa behind, although I was looking forward to our next destination, the Colca Canyon. Thanks to the location of our hotel, we were able to witness the Military parade that takes place every Sunday through the Plaza de Armas in Arequipa. Nearly every division of the army was represented and marched through while singing the Peruvian national anthem. I do hope that they rotate the divisions, or it must be really tiring for them to do this every Sunday morning. Loaded with boxed lunches for the day, we climbed our transport and headed out of town, through neighborhoods that became poorer as we approached the outskirt of the city. One particular sculpture we passed was dedicated to a major pastime in the city, bullfighting. Bullfights are an Arequipean ... read more
Plaza de Armas
Plaza de Armas
Arequipa

South America » Peru » Arequipa » Arequipa August 13th 2022

A very early morning call saw us on our way to the airport for our flight to Arequipa. I really dislike these internal flights that seem to waste a lot of time dealing with airport procedures, occasional flights delays, etc., although I realize it's the only option when visiting distant locations within a country. We arrived in Arequipa late in the morning and were greeted on our exit from the airport with free beers being handed out by an Arequipa beer company in celebration of the festivities currently going in the city for the anniversary of the city founding on August 15, 1540. Then we had enough time to stop at the Mirador de Yanahuara to view the iconic backdrop to the city, the beautiful Misti volcano, before an idyllic lunch at Tio Dario, some yards ... read more
Mirador de Yanahuara
Plaza de Yanahuara
Plaza de Yanahuara

South America » Peru » Lima » Lima » Lima August 12th 2022

On our first day in Chile, our first outing was to experience a Ceviche cooking demonstration followed by lunch at the same location in the upscale Miraflores district, where our hotel was located. The Asnapa Restaurant was just a few minutes walk from the hotel, and the demonstration was performed by the restaurant's Chef. Ceviche is a simple process, needing only five ingredients and a few minutes to be accomplished, and anything additional is to the chef's discretion and taste. Our chef chose fish as the main ingredient, and within a few minutes we were sampling his creation. A larger portion was available as one of the appetizers for our lunch, but I decided to try something different. It was the first of many delicious meals I was to have in Peru, enough so to have ... read more
Miraflores
Ceviche Demonstration
Ceviche Demonstration

South America » Peru » Cusco » Machu Picchu July 16th 2022

We are now within about 2 weeks from leaving Chile, and while there are moments of sadness, especially with all the goodbyes we have to say, in my heart I know it’s time to go. It has been an amazing experience here, with some serious ups (the travel, the friends, the culture) and some serious downs (the pandemic, the social unrest)…but I think the biggest testament to all this, is that if we had to make this choice again, I would not change it for the world. There was a time in 2021, probably at this time last year, where we were sooooo close to packing up and leaving early. And thank god we did not. This experience would not have been complete with our last year here, to reconnect with people that we were cut ... read more
Qorikancha
Laguna del Inca
Big Mountain Girl

South America » Peru » Cusco » Choquequirao November 5th 2021

Read my article about Choquequirao on Matador Network ! The most important things to know about Choquequirao are that it is much bigger than Machu Picchu and that the trail to get there is very steep and has significant elevation change. (This blog and many more photos are on my website https://heatherjasper.com ). The Choquequirao ruins are all of the things you want in an archeological site: beautiful, mysterious, extensive, unique, fascinating, etc. They have been classified successively as a fortress, a ceremonial center, a city and the last residence of the Inca. In my opinion, the most important aspect is that they were never discovered by the Spanish during the decades of conquest. I was very disappointed to hear from local families that they have be... read more
What's left to be done
Choquequirao Usnu
Smaller terraces

South America » Peru » Puno » Lake Titicaca September 30th 2021

After url=https://www.fodors.com/world/south-america/peru/experiences/news/heres-one-trip-you-should-never-use-a-travel-agent-formy article about Amantaní Island was published in Fodor’s, I decided to go back to the island to see what the impact has been so far. If you haven’t read the article, check it out first. (There are also links on my website). This follow-up story will make a lot more sense afterwards. I went for a quick weekend trip and despite how long it takes to get to the island, I went there on Friday and came back to Cusco on Sunday. (Detailed instructions for how to get to Amantaní are at the end of this blog). Abel Mamani, as my main source in the Fodor’s article, has so far received pushback from one of the agencies I called out in the article. All Ways Travel sent hi... read more
Getting ready for planting
A walk around the island
Plowing by hand

South America » Peru » Arequipa September 25th 2021

Arequipa: The White City Arequipa is known as the White City because of its architecture, built with white volcanic stone, called sillar. Elizabeth gave a great insight into the history of this city. We learnt about the still-functioning Santa Catalina Monastery, constructed in 1579, like a city within a city. The Catedral De Arequipa, constructed between 1540 and 1656, with its ornate façade in the Baroque style, it's the only cathedral in Peru that stretches the length of a plaza. It also has a history of rising from the ashes. The original structure was gutted by fire in 1844, rebuilt and then flattened by the 1868 earthquake. Most of what we saw has been rebuilt since then. An earthquake in 2001 toppled one of the enormous towers and made the other slump precariously, yet by the ... read more




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