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South America » Bolivia » La Paz Department » Yungas Road February 13th 2006

November 29th 2005 I decided my short stint in Peru was coming to an end, it was time to head east to the border. My original plan of hitting Mancora in northern Peru and heading down the coastline, would have to wait to my next visit to these parts. Hopefully when I'm a more accomplished surfer and I'm able to take more advantage of the reputedley kick-arse sets. GNARRLY! So after two weeks in the Cuzco region, I boarded the economy class tuesday morning ten hour train ride to Puno. Pleased to see a newly acquainted face in the form of Sally "Kyles" Dawson. Bearing an uncanny resemblance to one of our great aussi exports. Pedros "The Greek" jumps aboard the train. Bringing with him Johnny "london" and kiwi chick "Flick". Unbeknownst to me, I would ... read more
Hey Speedy.......
Ready Mr Music
Cheeky Bugger

South America » Bolivia » La Paz Department » Yungas Road February 12th 2006

I have to wonder how places named such things as "The Death Road" can prove to be so alluring to travellers. For me, I think places like this are a means to shock myself out of the complacency of wandering around churches and grazing through touristy markets. After a few days in La Paz, that kind of shock treatment was definitely in order. Regardless, some might question the sanity of willingly hopping on a mountain bike to ride down a road that has more fatalities than any other in the world. But that is exactly what we did, and it was a blast. The road itself goes from La Paz, high in the altiplano, crosses the Andes, then drops over 4000 metres to Coroico and the tropical lowlands. In honesty, the road isn´t nearly as dangerous ... read more
Getting Ready....
Blue Bird Conditions
La Cumbre...

South America » Bolivia » La Paz Department » Copacabana February 12th 2006

During our jeep tour we met Matthew and Martina, a really nice british-swiss couple who had the same plans as us so we decided to travel together through Bolivia and Peru. This hopefully also makes us less prone to getting robbed. We had heard many stories of people getting robbed in La Paz and Cuzco so we tried to do everything we could to avoid that. From Uyuni we took train to Oruro and from there a bus to La Paz. We stayed there just one night before taking a bus to Copacabana. Copacabana is a small town by the lake Titicaca close to the border of Bolivia and Peru. The hotel we stayed at was at a magnificent location overlooking the town and the lake and they also had nice hammocks which were perfect for ... read more
Cathedral
Lake Titicaca
Hill next to Copacabana

South America » Bolivia » La Paz Department » Copacabana February 12th 2006

I left La Paz on Saturday morning. It was partly the expense, the pollution, and the overall big-cityness of it all. But also - Izzy had flown out on Thursday, and after watching her plane leave, standing alone in the drizzle, the prospect of being alone in a city seemed more and more lonely by the minute. By Friday, I was ready to get out. The Chilean consulate, true to bureaucratic form, was having me wait until Monday to come in to talk again (hours: 8h30 to 12h30), so the only question then was - where to go? I walked round town getting the various thing I needed for my adventure. Actually, ´various things´ just meant a tent and honey. A lot of things can go wrong in the bolivian wilderness, but if you have a ... read more

South America » Bolivia » La Paz Department » Lake Titicaca February 10th 2006

The fixed island of Taquile One of 70 islands on the lake, remote and with a stark beauty. ... read more
Taquile Island
Taquile Island
Taquile Island

South America » Bolivia » Potosí Department » Potosi February 10th 2006

From Uyuni we took a fairly tame bus ride to Potosi. We received word from a few that this bus ride was, if possible, worst than the Oruro to Uyuni night bus (see a few entries ago), however the road was paved and the geological features (syclines, antclines, thrust fault features, heavily oxidized soils (red) constrasted against those that were not) were simply fantastic! Grant was fairly excited to visit Potosi and Cerro Ricco, which makes a back drop to the city, after seeing the film ´The Devils Miner´ at the 2005 VIFF. Potosi has been a city of silver mining for almost 500 years and like most mining towns has gone from boom to bust, and there are hints that it may be heading back towards boom. Sadly, as there is little to no regulation, ... read more
Dusty Conditions
Heavy
Good from Bad

South America » Bolivia » Potosí Department » Potosi February 9th 2006

Disclaimer: this is a pretty long email. Potosí · a lot of images, scenes, and emotions I´m taking from Izzy´s letter to her parents. I´m totally ripping her off but she has some pretty amazing insights. So - co-authorship of Patrick and Izzy. The stories you hear of the inhuman cruelty of the Spanish conquistadors in their drive for gold and silver? The infamous mines that made Spain the glory of Europe and the Spanish galleons the prize of British, Dutch, and French pirates? The epicentre of the New-World wealth Christopher Columbus told of when he returned to Ferdinand and Isabella? Welcome to Potosi. The town of Potosi is high up on the altiplano of Bolivia, at about 4,100m. Potosi calls itself El Patrimonio de la Cultura y la Humanidad. But not in the same way ... read more


Well, the arduous journey to get to Uyuni, and more importantly, the salt flats of southern Bolivia, has come to an end. Fortunately, the drawn out process was worth the wait. Once again, we succombed to the ease of the "tourist package", and signed ourselves up for a three day trip with one of the many companies that seem to dominate the small town of Uyuni. We ended up being paired up with four other fellas for our journey. When you also added a driver and a cook, the old Landcruiser didn´t have much leg room to spare. Our first destination was Salar de Uyuni. Being the rainy season, the salt flats were flooded, creating a surreal mirror that stretches as far as the eye can see. As beautiful as the salt lake was, it also ... read more
Guess Who!
Comfy!
Behind the Wheel...


Salar de Uyuni, the world´s largest salt flat has an area of about 12000 square km. That's a whole lot of salt! In January, February and March the salt flat is covered with water which reflects the sky and creates an impression of walking on an endless mirror. Absolutely surreal! Bolivia has some really weird stuff! It's a big country with over 1 million square km, three times the area of Finland, and only 8.3 million people living there. It's a scarcely populated country with everything from high mountains to rain forests. And some of the most unbelievable scenery we've ever seen, I must say. In the past Bolivia has been in war with all of it's neighbours and lost a lot of land to them. For a long time it's been looked down upon by ... read more
This is where it begins
The group
Superman stomping the salt

South America » Bolivia » La Paz Department » Yungas Road February 7th 2006

The little town, Yolosa, was 7 km below Coroica. All it was was a few houses (all little cafeterias offering exactly the same things … about 12 of them) set up adjacently with one big street that everything in town took place in. Which in a town of 40 or so is not much, but quite varied: trucks and buses splashing through the mud and water that the townspeople were dumping their raw sewage into; stopping in the open space to breathe a collective sigh of reliefe after surviving the road and the toilet-less hot buses; being pounced upon by vendors selling nuts in long plastic bags, or soda in baggies, or ice cream from a dirty Styrofoam bucket. The town is devoid of bustle and hustle for 55 minutes of the hour, but for the ... read more




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