So! We arrived in Jaisalmer, off a long-ish overnight train, and were immidiately bombarded by a slew of commission-workers, trying to get us to go to their hotel. GAH!. okay, so this happens allll the time. They see two white people through the windows of the train, and wont stop badgering until you've hopped into a rickshaw, and driven away fast. We had to wait in line, however, to book more train tickets, so we were stuck with way too many people in our faces, pointing at papers, claiming to be "the best" while we waited for some "freedom fighters" to change like 30 tickets. Wa-hoo! We picked a quiter dude at the back of the scene to drive us into town, deliberately avoiding the rudies, and went to his guesthouse. It turned out, though, that
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