Day 25: Exploring the imperial capital

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Geo: 16.4635, 107.585

What a fabulous day in an amazing city. Have to say we are lucky to be alive. Started the day with a cyclo ride in peak hour traffic to drop off the laundry and have look at the outer wall and the moat of the Imperial City.

Loaded up into the cyclo in single file and tried to stick together. When the lead driver stuck his arm out to complete the left hand turn, starting from the wrong side of the white line, against the red light, into the oncoming stream of traffic and the turning traffic we all thought we may need to detour back to the laundry to make a second drop off. It was truly, truly scary. I heard Loraine say from behind me incredulously, "How did we do that!" I have no idea I had my eyes closed.

But make it we did and we got to travel down the back alleys and along the wall and moat to get a closer look at the homes and business establishments of Hue as well as an ever changing view of the outer wall, the bridges and the moat to be delivered safely to the fortress of the Imperial Citadel.

We spent three hours inside the Imperial Citadel listening to the dates and details of Huan around the rise and fall of the Nguyen dynasty through 13 rulers and heard stories of the good kings and the puppet kings, the queens and the concubines and the eunuchs. Watched a digital recreation of the Imperial City completed as a gift by the South Koreans and toured the palaces, the living quarters, the library and the garden and followed the bullet holes and the sites of the buildings flattened as a result of the combined carnage delivered at the hands of the Viet Cong and the Americans.

The imperial Nguyễn Dynasty ruled from 1802 to 1945, when the Emperor Bao Dai abdicated in favour of Ho Chi Minh's revolutionary government. The citadel has endured repeated damage, firstly in the fighting between the French and the Viet Minh in 1947, and again in 1968 during the Tet Offensive, when it was shelled by the Viet Cong and then bombed by the Americans. As a result, some areas are now only empty fields, bits of walls, with an explanatory plaque.

The most extensive damage occurred when the Citadel was targeted during the Vietnam War, when it was conquered by the Viet Cong and held for 24 days. During this time the VC slaughtered around 3,000 people suspected of either sympathising with the South, being a highschool graduate or Christian. In retaking the city American forces initially didn't use artillery or air support to avoid damaging ancient buildings but the rules changed when the VC used the Imperial Citadel as a base.

It was certainly a poignant moment to hear Huan's story of his father. Four boys in the War. One uncle with the Viet Cong, two uncles for the Americans and his father as a teacher. His two uncles were "re-educated" and the four brothers have never sat at the table since the war because they have "different ideas." It is worth noting that his VC uncle is "a very rich man." To the victors go the spoils.

The estimate is that only 30% of the structures remain standing. Extensive reconstruction is taking place here.

Huan is great with the facts. But is certainly not in the same league as Way with the jokes. Although he did loosen up a little in defining eunuchs and their jackfruit. And there is a little drama if you ask a question around a number or stat or name that he has previously delivered and if you ask a question "out of his order" you definitely don't feel the answer. Huan informs you that you will get that info at "the next stop" or "tomorrow."

Headed out of town a little for lunch and then visited Khai Dinh Royal Tomb and heard stories of treasure hunters and tomb raiders. Then added the elaborate Tu Duch Royal Tomb (where the king spent every weekend for 16 years on a "working holiday" with his queen and concubines) before rounding out the day with the climb up the stairs to the Thein Mu pagoda ( the iconic symbol of Hue) with its seven storey tower over looking the Perfume River that was home to prestigeous gold and silver Buddhas.

Despite hearing (at last) the origin of the river's name, we decided to decline the visit to the incense making workshop and associated shop. We were definitely keen to head back to the hotel, the pool, the air conditioning, a drink and a shower before dinner.

Running a little short of cash so needed to visit the ATM - success - with only a 60 cent international card transaction. Only problem now is that we have "big" denominations.

Dinner plans took us via a $3 cab ride door to door, to the highly recommended "Elegant" only to be turned away because they were booked out. They did recommend a restaurant around the corner called "Golden Rice." Why not? Every course we ordered was up to the usual standard and for something completely different, we washed it down with a bottle of local Dalat White. Not too shabby.

When it came time to settle a check of the bill revealed that the waiter (who had been so attentive and helpful all evening) had missed adding the bottle of wine. When this was pointed out to him he was ever so grateful. If we hadn't noted the error, he would have had to pay for it!Glad we fixed it.

Skipped the $3 cab ride home and sauntered along the river instead. Ever mindful of the 11 pm curfew we kept up a steady pace and Mac was timing us to ensure we made the 3 km in under the 30 minutes we had left before the witching hour. And our walk saw us rescue a tourist couple who were stuck at the lights trying to make sense of the traffic and cross a bridge. Of course, pros that we are after 25 days in Vietnam and surviving a cyclo ride this morning, we invited them to boldly step out with us and take on the scooters and cars in their own game as Loraine was instructed to stick her right arm out to stop the traffic. Worked a treat, if we can find her a yellow jumpsuit we can rent her out as a traffic cop. Not sure our chorused calls of "sticky rice" translated so well, but they gladly followed and we all made it. As it turned out they were from our hotel and they too were extremely grateful for our Good Samaritan deed.

Thinking Buddha is working his magic and that we have turned out to be the "best humans" possible. As long as we can keep all of our body parts together, looks like we have a chance of making it to heaven without worrying about that "angry faced" statue in the temples.

Steps: 13 541
Temperature: 35 degrees, wringing wet humidity

PS At dinner this evening, Loraine lost the corner of a tooth. Wish I had the cloves @Julie. All seems okay - it was a corner piece of a crown - no pain just ragged and annoying.

PPS The Macs seem to have a daily challenge with some element of the toilet plumbing. So much so that LO_RI have suggested that we rename this to the "travelbog." Think we need to bring @Paul as our travelling companion - he can fix anything.

PPPS That Easter Bunny is clever. Found us in Hue.

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Comments

[Aunty Gail]

Paul says he wishes he was there with you 'cause he would gladly fix any of your little problems.....and that way he would be enjoying the holiday with you, up close & personal......not too sure about all the steps & walking though!
!!!....xxxx