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Published: April 18th 2017
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Bai Tu Long Bay
Ah, the sophisticated world travelers ... After enduring/enjoying the coldest weather yet, we have finally found cherry blossoms: on Sado Island, almost the last stop on our journey.
We first visited Nyuto Onsen, staying at Tsurunoya Onsen, a tiny, old collection of rustic buildings that reminded me of Camp Nakanawa, the place used for the Tennessee Scenic River Association’s Whitewater Rendezvous. One big difference was that the place has sulfur water hot springs and baths for everyone. Tom and I enjoyed a “private” bath, which has a tub plenty big enough for two people, but we could have used the outdoor baths, either for women and men separately or for both together. We decided that we’d visit the mixed-sex bath only after dark, but by the time it got dark, it was so cold that we weren’t going anywhere outdoors!
We escaped Nyuto Onsen just ahead of a late winter storm and visited Kakunodate, famed for (1) its streets of beautifully preserved or restored samurai homes and (2) its streets of weeping cherry trees. Once again, we were about a week early. Sigh …
We have become comfortable traveling in Japan after being here for about three weeks, so our trip planner decided to
Tom in Search of Cherry Blossoms
This is the last time you'll see that blue jacket. He was freezing and bought a warm jacket the same day. give us a challenge. We traveled to Mt. Haguro, on which live the “dieties” – the natural religion gods that inhabit three mountain peaks in northern Japan. The journey required three different trains and a bus ride to the top of the Haguro-San, where a monastery welcomes visitors to the mountaintop shrine. These ascetics have been famed in the past for their practice of self-mummification, through which the most dedicated put themselves through a years-long process of denial and long-term poisoning, ending with being sealed into a tomb with only a breathing tube and bell. The bell was rung by the entombed monk for as long as he was alive. When the bell ceased to ring, the breathing tube was sealed. If you want more information on this process, the current monks or the shrine, Google “Dewa Sanzan shrine”.
What an experience! When we left the bus at the top of the mountain, we encountered 20-30 mph winds and temperatures in the 40s. We were housed in the shrine’s lodging, fed excellent vegetarian meals, and indulged in hot baths. They put us into the finest suite of rooms, with separate sitting and bed rooms, but the walls were made
Watch your head!
I think he hit his head five times that night. of shoji paper. Two kerosene heaters kept the place toasty, but we hesitated to use them at night. The challenge was that the toilets were at the very far end of the building, and you wanted to put the hood up on your jacket to make the journey. I am always up at least once per night, and scampered down that hall as fast as I could go.
The next morning, we were invited to attend early prayer services and opened our shoji wall to see – yep, a snowstorm. The winds were still howling, but the bus pulled into the parking lot promptly at 9:00 am to begin a long trip to the warmer climate of Sado Island. At the JR Railroad station, we found that the train wasn’t so lucky. Amazingly, it was an HOUR late due to the winds. We made it to the port city of Niigata an hour late also, but were able to catch a ferry to Sado. That day was bus-train-taxi-ferry-rental car.
Sado Island is in the Sea of Japan, between Japan and Korea, and was warm enough that we discarded our heavy winter coats. And there were cherry trees in
full bloom! We drove across the island and took a taiko drum class, then drove to Shukunegi, an old town that had been built of wood from ships. (Why the wood was leftover wan’t clear …) The drumming class was with the master drummer of the world-famous KODO group. He was great, and Tom had a wonderful time, saying later that he wants to take lessons when we get home. Oh, boy. Those drums are BIG!
The next day, we recrossed the strait to Honshu Island and took the shinikansen train back to Tokyo, then jumped on an airplane to Hong Kong. We’re here for a couple of days, then will fly back to Atlanta via London. We hope Atlanta manages to keep enough roads open so we can get back to Knoxville.
Thanks for reading -- see y’all soon!
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James DeBernardi
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Thanks a Million
It was such a please being taken on your tour. From start to finish, it was a real pleasure.