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Published: February 13th 2017
I have just come back from a boat trip to the extensive Can Tho wholesale market. Even though we left at 6:30 a.m., the serious business was over for the day and tourist boats abounded. On the 30 minute boat ride river traffic was constant - small boats and medium boats, all motor powered. As we entered the melee that was the market, we saw piles of small pineapples, something that looked like jicama, sweet potatoes, watermelon, cabbages, and more. “Corner store” boats weaved in and out, offering mostly cold drinks and coconuts. Buyers seemed to know just what they wanted from which vendors, because transactions happened quickly. Many boat people seemed to be relaxing, perhaps having concluded most of their business for the day.
We went around once, and then came back around for Thuy to buy a bunch of “lady finger” bananas and pineapples. The pineapple vendor cut off the rough skin, cut out all the divots in a practiced spiral motion, and cut each pineapple in four down the core, leaving a “stick” of stem attached, just holding the fruit together. We each took a delicious piece. With a last look around, we motored back to the
dock, walked the short distance to the hotel, and had breakfast. Today I tried congee with salted duck egg and pickles. Tasty enough to enjoy, but probably never my favourite.
An hour later we were back on the bus for a rather long ride to Ho Chi Minh City. Almost all the way along the road were areas of small commerce that catered to the motor traffic. Lots and lots of cafes provided meals, breaks and rest. Not only were there tables and chairs, but also hammocks strung in profusion, letting drivers take a nap. Roadside stands offered coconuts for drinking, soft drinks, fruit and “corner store” goods. Many of the shops supported motorcycle riders - from sales of Toyota and Honda bikes to accessories such as seat covers, helmets, face masks (commonly worn), and machine parts. Some businesses either made or just provided light industrial materials, such as bricks and metal beams. I felt both fascinated and frustrated not being able to guess the names and descriptions on signs, as I am used to doing in countries with Latin-based languages. A few shrines were visible, and when we passed rice fields, the graves of the family ancestors right
Family graves
Close to family foreverby the house clearly showed traditional reverence. Sand is a widely used building material, and I saw sand dumps but didn’t see anyone hauling it.
At lunch-time we stopped at the enormous Mekong Rest Stop, a multi building (open air) complex catering to the tourist trade, Asian and European. Thuy did not like the table reserved in the big noisy hall and had us moved to one of many smaller, quieter and more charming thatched buildings. A multi-course meal was served, as usual. The highlight was a rice ball: sticky rice was cooked then chopped very fine into a thick paste, put into a huge wok of bubbling oil, manipulated by the cook into a balloon formed by the steam inside. Three were brought to our table, looking very exotic, and then were cut into pieces with scissors. The result was squares of sweet sticky flavour with a crusty outside.
Back on the bus the traffic gradually transformed into Ho Chi Minh City. Oddly, we already were becoming familiar with some of the buildings on the way to the hotel; however, Thuy redirected us for a tour through Chinatown. Here signs were often in both languages. Chinese New
Puffed dough
Magical to watch being cooked! Year decorations were still up and for sale, especially red paper lanterns, large and small. The market stalls on every street were teeming with patrons, although Thuy remarked that this was a slow time because the holiday had just ended.
The tour split at this point, some people going to the
War Remnants Museum; I chose to not go because I have heard enough over the years about the War. Later Elizabeth told me that it displayed a lot of high quality photos of really terrible things, taken by American journalists.
A couple of hours later, we met in the hotel lobby for a night walking tour of central Saigon. We took our bus to the main streets and drove by where the French, American and British embassies used to be; now that Hanoi is the capital, the embassies have moved (under American protest). The former French embassy building was splendid French Colonial Architecture in yellow and white. The British building had a weighty appearance and was now the headquarters of the
Vietnam National Oil and Gas Group. The American embassy building was destroyed, although the fence and gate remain (as seen in movies).
Night had truly fallen by the time we got off
Saigon Light Show
Dazzling play of lights on buildings at Saigon Square, where ultra-modern light shows played out on high-rise offices and dazzled our eyes. At the end of the Square was the imposing former French administration building, now the
Party Committee headquarters. To one side was the
Rex Hotel where American journalists used to stay during the war; a much earlier guest was
Graham Greene. Our US tour companions had much more feel for this legendary place, and for the
Caravelle Hotel, site of much conferring and drinking during the war, apparently. The French Colonial opera house still stands in a calm park setting. Thuy pointed out other magnificent buildings, often new and built by Vietnamese who have done well, or by other Asian investors.
Thuy offered us the choice of going for Pho or having a full dinner. We opted for “noodles” as she calls the dish. We walked several blocks, to the old market with a famous bakery on the corner, from French times; now it is also a deli. In passing we glimpsed the inside of the main market and arrived at the bustling night market on a street closed to vehicles, not that the motorcycles paid much attention to that rule. Thuy led us on a quick
Saigon Street Market
The streets never sleep - and neither do vendors! tour up and down the street and then on to her favourite noodle house. Many of the dozen diner-style tables were occupied; people of all ages relaxed in the warm delicious air. And indeed, the beef Pho was excellent.
">View video of Cai Rang Floating Market.
Isabel Gibson
non-member comment
Wow
Your video of the river market is excellent, as are your stills. Given that traffic, aren't you glad you went at a quiet time? I'd be flabbergasted at what they're carrying on their mopeds (apparently successfully) if I hadn't seen your earlier video on that very topic. Just amazing.