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Published: September 25th 2006
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Ponte di Rialto
The Grand Canal We left Budapest just in time. Riots broke out in the city shortly after our departure. But, 16 hours later, crossing through Croatia and Slovenia at night and dealing with the worst conductor known to man, we arrived in paradise. The Floating City. A magical place. A city that is literally sinking. A city with no cars. A city comprised of 117 tiny islands. Over 400 canals and 500 bridges. It's like an elaborate labrynth. Just when you think you have found your way you are pulling out the map again. But if it weren't for its hundreds of alleyways it just wouldn't be the same. We were in the amazing Venice.
The best part, I think, of every arrival into a new city or town is the first glimpse--and this one will be with me forever. It was surreal. Exiting the train station we were already standing 100 feet from the Grand Canal. Boats were ferrying people to and fro, people were boating for leisure, others carrying produce and other goods. We were in Venice AND the weather was great.
We couldn't check in to our hotel until later in the day so I figured I'd treat myself
to an Italian haircut (whatever that means), but I'm in Venice and it's gotta be good, right? Well, not really. First, I am made to look like a skunk. Next an infantryman. I'm not sure what Matteo was thinking. Maybe he thought I was into the European style scene or maybe he wanted to make an overeager tourist look like an idiot and pretend that it was the best haircut he's ever given. Well, the picture says it all.
Our hotel was at one of the hundreds of plazas in Venice and again, the bells tolled at 7am (Tenille counted seven, then one hundred, then another seven tolls. It was just to make sure we were up, I guess).
The following day we visited Pigeon Square, aka San Marco's, where we went into San Marco's Basilica that holds Saint Mark's body under the high altar. We entered walking on an elevated ramp because parts of it were flooded. In fact, the floors are undulated and wavelike due to the years of tidal shifting of its foundation. It's not flat at all. At times, you feel drunk walking the church because you keep stumbling around. And it was especially
difficult for Tenille because she entered in a special orange skirt custom made just for her...and for only one Euro! You can't miss it in the picture. On the other hand, the church itself is truly impressive. From a distance the domes look like an ice cream cake and the inside ceiling is made of gold.
We also went up to the top of the belltower in the Square and got great panaramic views of the city. And views of pigeons swarming people brilliant enough to buy seeds to feed them (the Flying Rats). And low and behold, when one eats it must release shortly after. And who was the lucky recipient? Again, the picture says it all. But the short hair isn't Tenille's.
In our first stop of our Italy tour we have filled up with so much gelato, pizza, and panini sandwiches to last us a lifetime. And it's all worth it. Some of the best we've ever had.
We saved our last night to chill at a cafe and have a Venetian specialty...a sprizze, a pink sparkling wine. Around 5pm it seems as if all of Venice is out of their homes drinking them
in the plazas and squares. But I guess when you don't have a yard or any grass where else do you go? Kids were out playing, parents meeting up, and the grandfolks chatting away. We had a great night out at dinner to sample some Venetian cousine and meant to finish it up with a gondola ride in the canals but couldn't find the gondoliers. Apparently 9pm is too late for a ride. The one gondolier we did find wanted 100 Euro (130 bucks) for a half hour ride. So we called it a night. No gondola ride in Venice.
We spent the next two nights at Lake Como just north of Milan and stayed at the end of the lake near the aero and yacht club. We even watched a few planes land and take off from the lake while sitting in the park. We had hoped to swim in the lake but it just wasn't warm enough. The weather was overcast and very foggy. The lake is situated in a valley with mountains hovering high above encompassing the small towns that emerge from the cliffs and mountainsides. Mansions and villas are seen clustered on the mountains. Some
The Orange Sarong
Tenille's mandatory dress; atop the Basilica overlooking Palazzo di San Marco even dot the landscape sitting alone high above the rest in the middle of the mountain. Many "houses" have their own parking garage for their boats. No, it is not a dock but an underground grotto that provides them much seclusion.
We took the bus to the famous town of Bellagio (George Clooney has a house there; and no, we did not spot him or his house). Bellagio is a town for the extremely weathly that sits lakeside. It seems as if all the houses are going to slide off the mountainside and crash into the water at any moment. The road twists and turns throughout the mountain bending around curves into oncoming traffic. At times, the road merges into a narrow single-lane road and cars inch past each other. It was just a quick stopover on our way to French Riviera. Hopefully we'll have much better weather and a sunny beach to go along with it.
Next stop: Nice, France; Sept. 24, 2006
Have you seen our Route yet?? Click the View Route Map box above or check out the link below,
http://www.travelblog.org/gmaps/map_1Zd.html
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Bart Renner
non-member comment
not as hot here
Hi Guys! I've been reading these cool journal entries and staring at your winning smiles in front of an amazing backround. Have you been to a hostel even more filthy than the stance? You were here for the opening of Stance 2 right? Fijanse que there is now a stance 3 which is... less filthy. Well, Live it up! I've really been enjoying getting your emails. I'm writing you from the beautiful "city of the cumbia" which I think they forgot how to play or something because all I hear is really loud reggeton. Whatever you both know San Vincente well. Yep, I now have Barb cracking a whip at me and am in charge of 26 starry eyed trainees. I'm doing my best to take care of your little Maria too. I've gotten Caroline and Kate Keneally to make the last 2 hand offs, a little less sketch. Looks like I'll be staying here in Good ol El Sal for another year too. Long story, I'll tell ya when I have time. If Barbra sees me playing too much I get sent to clean the toilets. One love. -Bartolo